Can someone explain quarantine tank cycling to me?

[cpbartak]

I've been trying to get a permanent quarantine tank cycled for what feels like a really long time, and I just want to check in to make sure there's not something I'm missing. One thing I don't really understand...where does the beneficial bacteria live in a quarantine tank since you don't use live rock? Perhaps my impression is wrong, but doesn't most of the beneficial bacteria live in live rock and live sand in normal tanks? Does it all live and grow in the filter in a quarantine tank? Is that enough "space for it"? Is the fact that it doesn't have as much space to live account for why it seems to be taking longer?

I realize that a lot of people just put their filter materials in their main tank to quickly seed their quarantine tanks with bacteria, but if you want to cycle your quarantine from scratch to set it up as a permanent tank and don't want to risk potentially transferring pathogens from your display...well, I've been seeding it with a red sea maturation kit. I guess there's just something I don't feel I'm wrapping my head around here.

 

[EriksOasis]

Your biological filtration would be in your Filter. I’ve always used matrix which stores a lot of beneficial bacteria.

 

[LJLKRL05]

I could be way off base here, but I set mine up with a HOB filter and filter media, and I used Seachem Stability to seed it with bacteria. Depending on the meds I may have to use, I will remove the carbon and leave the filter media in the filter.
My thoughts are if the fish is sick, and I have to treat with meds that will kill the bacteria, I will be constantly having to do water changes to fight ammonia. I also use a Seachem ammonia badge in the QT tank.
I do not plan on having a QT tank set up permanently. I will set one up on an as needed basis when I buy fish.

 

[bdejong1112o]

I am in the same position. New display tank and new QT tank. After several conversations I am going with the simple setup.

Tank, PVC pipes for hiding spaces, hang on back with foam, a little dosing of seed but that is all moot if I end up having to medicate. I have a seachem amonia badge and will maintain levels through copious water changes as needed. I don't see keeping it up all the time since my plans are to sanitize it after each use and it's not really hard to keep a tank under control for these relatively short periods of time.

I do have a full RODI system at the house so that makes it easy since I don't need to make water runs. In fact the QT and cost of filling the DT easily paid for the RODI setup.

From what I have read it's best to not overthink the QT tank. Keep amonia under control and the rest will be just fine. Since my DT is new the QT will be in use for somee time as I work on the stocking list....slowly...

 

[lilchris_357]

Keep in mind a quarantine tank is a place to house fish for observation and yes you can set this up permanently with LR and sand but you can't use meds because some meds can destroy your beneficial bacterial. This brings up the hospital tank. The hospital tank is where you want to use all your meds, if they are warranted. It will be bare bottom w/PVC pipes for hiding and a hang on back filtration (not a necessity), a heater and ammonia badge and air stone. I only use a hospital tank due to the fact that I can break it down and sterilize it in a matter of minutes. I personally don't like a full dedicated quarantine tank because it quickly turns into a display tank and I don't have the time and place for another "display" tank. I love hospital tanks, they are easy, always sterile and ready to go. I think I have 4 hospital tanks, all have dedicated heaters and pvc so I don't cross contaminate when doing TTM. 2 10 gal, 1 20 gal long, and 15 gal. I use the 10 gal to do TTM. Right now I have a wrasse in one for treatment and observation for pop eye. I conduct a 5 gal water change every few days to control ammonia (as I don't use filters). I only have a heater, pvc elbow and air stone in the tank and he's been in there for about a month w/ no issues. Once he's healthy and back in the display, I take down the hospital tank sterilize it and stored in the garage.

 

[Brew12]

I am in the same position. New display tank and new QT tank. After several conversations I am going with the simple setup.

Tank, PVC pipes for hiding spaces, hang on back with foam, a little dosing of seed but that is all moot if I end up having to medicate. I have a seachem amonia badge and will maintain levels through copious water changes as needed. I don't see keeping it up all the time since my plans are to sanitize it after each use and it's not really hard to keep a tank under control for these relatively short periods of time.

I do have a full RODI system at the house so that makes it easy since I don't need to make water runs. In fact the QT and cost of filling the DT easily paid for the RODI setup.

From what I have read it's best to not overthink the QT tank. Keep amonia under control and the rest will be just fine. Since my DT is new the QT will be in use for somee time as I work on the stocking list....slowly...

Personally, I've never seen my QT biofilter break down due to meds. I've had no problem at 30 days with copper or with 10 days of metroplex and prazipro. I almost exclusively use an HOB filter with a sponge and Biospira. If you get it established a few days before putting fish in it the bacteria are surprisingly robust.

I do agree, a fish QT set up should be kept simple. It should also be broken down and sterilized regularly or you can have issues with bacteria consuming your meds before they can be effective.

 

[Susan Edwards]

I set up a coral qt. lfs suggested 5-6 lbs of rock. I had it in rubble under the egg crate. What mistake. It was a mess and impossible to clean or get flow to. I took out the egg crate, added a few big rocks, and some live sand and put the corals on the sand and on the rocks. It's still new and has all this yuck forming over the corals. They've been in there a month. They are getting a brushing, maybe the frag plugs dipped in peroxide, and then into the tank. I've already lost 4. I don't think a 10 gal makes a good frag tank. My 20 hex also has sand and decorations as it is for observing and destressing. If I have to treat, I'll use cp and do it in the tank with no rock. I plan to leave both up--hex as I'll be adding fish a couple at a time for a while, the 10 gal to try to get it seasoned for inverts and try again with corals.