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Water changes and no dosing is a good way to get things back in ratio of what you want. It is also a lot smoother and gradual so more time for corals to adjust.
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the salt I use (Red Sea Coral Pro) is premixed at 12 dKH. I am happy with the dkH. My nitrates have jumped to just under 20ppm as I'm feeding more often. I know I don't want phosphates, I have seen in previous builds to what can happen. I believe my RO/DI water and chaeto have kept my phosphates at 0 which is greatThanks for posting the results.
I see the problem.
Your ALK and No3 are way off, not to mention a high PH and low Po4.
Here's the deal with a high ALK on low No3 your corals don't think it's at 12 as you test but they think or feel it's a lot higher.
Common rule in this hobby is with low No3 you drop your alk, in your case your No3 needs to be at 2ppm or higher close to 3 or 4 ppm and alk can be at 8.5.
You just need to find the right balance.
I have my No3 at 3ppm as we speak but ALK at 7.8 give and take.
As far of PH that needs to drop between 8 and 8.2.
Never seen a tank do good at 8.5.
Feed a little more to the fish so that Po4 is detectable around 0.04 but not lower, higher is better but 0.08 should be a limit till you can play around with nutrients control and consumption from your corals.
If you need to know the scientific results from High and Low ALK on No3 shoot a note to @Randy Holmes-Farley
the salt I use (Red Sea Coral Pro) is premixed at 12 dKH. I am happy with the dkH. My nitrates have jumped to just under 20ppm as I'm feeding more often. I know I don't want phosphates, I have seen in previous builds to what can happen. I believe my RO/DI water and chaeto have kept my phosphates at 0 which is great
So was reading this feed and wondering how the candy cane coral is doing and what ended up working to fix the problem?No shrimp yet