Check values stammering. Sump overflow. UGENT!!

[mfinn]

I drilled the holes in the loc lines. One of the check valves are still stammering even when I lift the entire loc line out of the water. I think it’s because the check valve isn’t allowing all the water in the UV to flow back into the sump, right?

I want to remove the check valves to see if my sump can hold the extra water from the UV system.

Do you think buying 2 more check valves and removing the flappers in my current check valves would be a good idea?

I would skip the check valves.

 

[Lbrdsoxfan]

I'd frankly just remove the check valves and properly test your sump to see how much water it's gonna take on before it stops draining out the display

 

[KrisReef]

I drilled the holes in the loc lines. One of the check valves are still stammering even when I lift the entire loc line out of the water. I think it’s because the check valve isn’t allowing all the water in the UV to flow back into the sump, right?

I want to remove the check valves to see if my sump can hold the extra water from the UV system.

Do you think buying 2 more check valves and removing the flappers in my current check valves would be a good idea?

I think my sump can hold the water without the check valves, but I think it’s pushing it pretty close to the surface of the sump. I’d have to test it.

No, you don't need two more places for failure to occur.

 

[Miami Reef]

No, you don't need two more places for failure to occur.

What do you mean no? Can you explain which part are you saying no to?

 

[KrisReef]

What do you mean no? Can you explain which part are you saying no to?

Check valves are just a source of failure. I thought that you were saying that you are taking them out. (FULL Stop!) That sounded good.

Not sure why you want to purchase two more after you remove the flappers from the ones you have?

So, to be clear, I support running a system that has zero check valves to rely upon.

 

[Miami Reef]

Check valves are just a source of failure. I thought that you were saying that you are taking them out. (FULL Stop!) That sounded good.

Not sure why you want to purchase two more after you remove the flappers from the ones you have?

So, to be clear, I support running a system that has zero check valves to rely upon.

I have the check values attached to my plumbing.

If my sump isn’t going to hold the water, then I need to rely on the check valves.

In order to test it, I need to cut out the flapper in my current check valves.

If the test fails, then I need to use check valves, thus the new ones as a backup so I don’t have to go running to the store.

 

[KrisReef]

I have the check values attached to my plumbing.

If my sump isn’t going to hold the water, then I need to rely on the check valves.

In order to test it, I need to cut out the flapper in my current check valves.

If the test fails, then I need to use check valves, thus the new ones as a backup so I don’t have to go running to the store.

Ok.

 

[nickng]

how bout trying a water hammer to damp out the shockwave

 

[JGT]

I don’t have check valves on my tank now but back in the day I did but I had the type that looked like a Y that relied on gravity. They never failed me back then. So might want to consider that type. They also allowed you to replace the stopper easily.

 

[JGT]

Example

 

[Lbrdsoxfan]

Example

The best ones out there imo.

The real issue is how small is the sump, do you have to worry about overflowing the sump if the pumps power is cut? If so then you are really rolling the dice here and you need to think of a sump redesign or a plumbing redesign.

 

[mfinn]

I have the check values attached to my plumbing.

If my sump isn’t going to hold the water, then I need to rely on the check valves.

In order to test it, I need to cut out the flapper in my current check valves.

If the test fails, then I need to use check valves, thus the new ones as a backup so I don’t have to go running to the store.

IMO you need to replumb the return piping, and move the outlets higher so that the sump can handle the amount of water that returns. Make the plumbing work for the sump.

 

[mfinn]

While the Wye check valves are a much better design, they can fail too.

 

[Brett7397]

Turn off your pumps and dip out the water in your tank and put it in your sump until the loc line siphon break is exposed to air. If you fill up your sump before the holes are exposed then keep the check valves.

 

[Brett7397]

Are your pumps throttle to restrict flow? The check valves will have to have enough flow to keep the open. I watched the video again and I can see the valve is not restricting flow. It looks to be on a tee fitting.

 

[Lbrdsoxfan]

While the Wye check valves are a much better design, they can fail too.

Very true but at least they are serviceable. The flappers are just a pain to do anything. When I ran flapper check valves I pulled them every 6 months or so and ran a bottle cleaner through them.

Downside is that after a few times of that, the rubber gasket is shot and then the joys of finding the same exact replacement and hope you don't have to chop PVC out if it's not a clean swap.

 

[Reefering1]

It already overflowed once... to shut down again is guaranteed water on floor.(?) Maybe lower return pump speed and remove water until return pump is slow as possible and starts sucking air. Then shut it down and see how much the plumbing sends back when it break syphon. If sump can hold more water, fill the sump to your comfort level. How much removed water do you have left?

 

[Miami Reef]

IMO you need to replumb the return piping

Which part do I need to replumb?

A have 2 return pumps. Both are Echotech DC pumps.

One of the return pumps passes through a big 80 watt aqua ultra violet and makes a closed loop to the return in the display.

The other return goes directly into the display into a different loc line.

My overflow is a bean animal with 2 straight emergency pipes instead of a durso and emergency.

 

[DCR]

The hammering is due to the check valves cycling open and then slamming closed. I noticed on your build that you do not have any ball/gate valves on the discharge line. How did you "close off" the return? Did you turn off the pumps or just turn them down to a very low speed? If you turn the pumps down to a very low speed where they are not putting up enough head to get back in the tank, they will surge like you are describing (showing in your video) and alternatively pump forward and then reverse flow until the check valve slams and then opens when the pump builds enough head to reopen. It ends up defeating the check valve because it is opening and closing and gradually drains down the tank.

I agree with what others have said about not depending on the check valves.

 

[Miami Reef]

I noticed on your build that you do not have any ball/gate valves on the discharge line.

I have ball valves on the return pumps that are on the open position at all times. I just close the pumps with the apex (it just closes the outlet)

I have gate valves in the overflow line to adjust that.