Check values stammering. Sump overflow. UGENT!!

JGT

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If you have any questions let me know and I’ll explain it the best that I can

A heavy drinker I see. :p
 

GlassMunky

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If you have any questions let me know and I’ll explain it the best that I can
your problem is that your sump is WAY undersized for the system. you need a bigger sump to handle the water that drains back down.

1707444478642.png
On the left is what you currently have on the right is what you need, you need to bring the line ABOVE the water level before going back down. Now this will still create a siphon so you have two options. Drill a small hole (aiming down) at a point ABOVE or AT the water level on the pipe OR raise your flex lines so they are right at the surface and suck air the second power cuts off(I would do both) . Sadly just raising the flex tube above the water line is not 100 percent of a replacement for a solid line above water level as those flex lines can slowly leak.
No, this is a silly idea and will look terrible. (but the OP has a hood so maybe you dont care) Itll work but there are easier and better ways.
I have my returns under the water line and i dont have any issues like the OP because my sump is properly sized.


if you absolutely CANNOT get a bigger sump, then youll be forced to use methods like they said above
 

a.t.t.r

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your problem is that your sump is WAY undersized for the system. you need a bigger sump to handle the water that drains back down.


No, this is a silly idea and will look terrible. (but the OP has a hood so maybe you dont care) Itll work but there are easier and better ways.
I have my returns under the water line and i dont have any issues like the OP because my sump is properly sized.


if you absolutely CANNOT get a bigger sump, then youll be forced to use methods like they said above
Look at his photos. He is at his limit for sump size unless he goes taller. This is a 10 minute fix versus ripping apart an entire tank and spending thousand dollars.
 

Dom

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The stammering you hear is from your check valves on your return line. In my experience, when they do that, they need a thorough cleaning and perhaps even a replacement.

I gave up on check valves a long time ago. Now I use a siphon break hole on the return.

Your sump overflowed because your check valves failed in some way and your return behaved as a siphon. The volume of water siphoned out before the water line fell below the return outlet was greater than the amount of room available in the sump to hold it.
 

GlassMunky

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Look at his photos. He is at his limit for sump size unless he goes taller. This is a 10 minute fix versus ripping apart an entire tank and spending thousand dollars.
hence, like i said, if he cant get a bigger sump hell be forced to use one of these other subpar methods since he didnt build the system right the first time.

But me, id fix it so it was right and not just do a ghetto fix.

A taller sump would easily fix the issue and not cost "thousands of dollars" like your suggesting.
 

mfinn

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Very true but at least they are serviceable. The flappers are just a pain to do anything. When I ran flapper check valves I pulled them every 6 months or so and ran a bottle cleaner through them.

Downside is that after a few times of that, the rubber gasket is shot and then the joys of finding the same exact replacement and hope you don't have to chop PVC out if it's not a clean swap.
Very true. I use wye check valves on both my tanks. ( on my 66 gallon tank, it's near 11 years old ) I don't use them to stop a flood, I use them to stop the level in my sump from rising too much and causing my skimmer from overflowing. My skimmer cups always seem to be pretty full ( my fault, I know).
My position on the return outlet in the tank and syphon break holes stop the water from flooding.

I just don't recommend them anymore because of how neglected they can become.
 
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Hi guys,

I apologize for the small hiatus.

I struggle with my mental health, and this problem has left me on edge. It came to a point where I wasn’t sure if I would be able to continue this anymore.

My sump is obviously too small for the tank size. I can’t go back and change that. I don’t have space for a larger sump even if I wanted to.

I went to my LFS and bought 2 more check valves, but the threading didn’t fit. I ordered the correct size from Bulk Reef Supply. I have no problems changing the check valves once a year. I can even change them twice a year if it means I can continue the hobby.

The return lines that @a.t.t.r kindly drew were NOT glued, but I struggled trying to fit a |—| shape. I couldn’t find a way to make something that would fit the spot.

Even if I did manage to make something, would my sump even be able to hold the water?

I appreciate all the responses. I don’t think I’m quite out of the clear. If the stammering problem still persists after the new check valves come, I think giving away the fish and corals would be very high in my mind. My heart cannot take this heaviness much longer. I’m just delaying the inevitable.
 

mfinn

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I appreciate all the responses. I don’t think I’m quite out of the clear. If the stammering problem still persists after the new check valves come, I think giving away the fish and corals would be very high in my mind. My heart cannot take this heaviness much longer. I’m just delaying the inevitable.
Don't do that. Hang in there.
We will too.
You have friends.
 

gbroadbridge

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I appreciate all the responses. I don’t think I’m quite out of the clear. If the stammering problem still persists after the new check valves come, I think giving away the fish and corals would be very high in my mind. My heart cannot take this heaviness much longer. I’m just delaying the inevitable.

You contribute too much to the reefing community to give it all away.

You'd regret it later as well.

Hang in there.
 

a.t.t.r

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Hi guys,

I apologize for the small hiatus.

I struggle with my mental health, and this problem has left me on edge. It came to a point where I wasn’t sure if I would be able to continue this anymore.

My sump is obviously too small for the tank size. I can’t go back and change that. I don’t have space for a larger sump even if I wanted to.

I went to my LFS and bought 2 more check valves, but the threading didn’t fit. I ordered the correct size from Bulk Reef Supply. I have no problems changing the check valves once a year. I can even change them twice a year if it means I can continue the hobby.

The return lines that @a.t.t.r kindly drew were NOT glued, but I struggled trying to fit a |—| shape. I couldn’t find a way to make something that would fit the spot.

Even if I did manage to make something, would my sump even be able to hold the water?

I appreciate all the responses. I don’t think I’m quite out of the clear. If the stammering problem still persists after the new check valves come, I think giving away the fish and corals would be very high in my mind. My heart cannot take this heaviness much longer. I’m just delaying the inevitable.
New check valves will help but won’t be a long term solution. I’m sure with a little creativity you could get the shape mentioned even if it does cut flow a little (flexible Tube and barbs are a thing).

Getting the pipe above water level and adding a siphon break is the only long-term solution short of getting a larger sump. Get some assorted 45s and 90s and play around till you get it(you have plenty of room) or two barbs and some flexible tube. If you didn’t live an hour and a half away I’d just come down and do it.

Put new check valves in and take care of the pvc issue on your next water change when your water level is low. Make sure to use pvc glue and let it sit a couple hours before kicking the water back on.
 
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Make sure to use pvc glue and let it sit a couple hours before kicking the water back on.
Do I need to use PVC glue? I have commitment issues, especially for the return pipes in case if I need to clean a clogged tube one day.
 

a.t.t.r

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Do I need to use PVC glue? I have commitment issues, especially for the return pipes in case if I need to clean a clogged tube one day.
It is pressure side so I would atleast on part of it for sure on the first elbow from the line that comes up from the bottom… if that pops off you would have a mess. (and any coupler you need to extend the pipe up assuming you don’t just replace that whole piece of pvc from the bulk head up to the surface ). Could also use a threaded fitting on that pipe.
 

EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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Do I need to use PVC glue? I have commitment issues, especially for the return pipes in case if I need to clean a clogged tube one day.
You could do a threaded coupling between the long pipe and the rest. My return pipes have always just been fitted into the bulkheads (rather than threaded or glued) for easy removal. If you set it up the way @a.t.t.r has suggested, as long as you can get access to both sides of the run (but removing it from thr bulkhead and the nozzle - if needed), a large pipe cleaner should do the trick - or blast it with a hose.
 
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I drew this out. I know it’s not a good drawing.

Is it really going to make a difference if there’s a part that’s above the return nozzle level? Won’t a siphon break work the same despite the return pipe being higher than the nozzle in the tank? I’m genuinely curious because plumbing is not my specialty.
 
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This is what I drew. If I end up doing this, I won’t be able to use the overflow lid that fits perfectly right now.

Then I’ll have algae growing in the overflow. Right now it’s covered in tucnicates and sponges. I don’t want to have algae growing in there.

image.jpg



Maybe I’m being a bone head, but I don’t understand why I can’t just replace the check valves on a regular basis and not have to deal with replumbing. The check valves didn’t stagger/vibrate before. I really have no issues changing them out frequently.
 

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