Chloroquine phosphate

MCooper · May 15, 2016

donnievaz said:
Absolutely not.

okay thank you. How does one make sure an invert like a shrimp or crab isn't brining anything into the DT?

donnievaz · May 15, 2016

DrCooper said:
okay thank you. How does one make sure an invert like a shrimp or crab isn't brining anything into the DT?

I just cross my fingers :D

cmcoker · May 15, 2016

DrCooper said:
okay thank you. How does one make sure an invert like a shrimp or crab isn't brining anything into the DT?

Invert quarantine

Humblefish · May 15, 2016

cmcoker said:
Invert quarantine

^^This. I place all new corals/inverts in my 29 gal "fishless" frag tank. Just cheap T5 lighting, Koralia powerhead, HOB powerfilter, heater, rock/sand and a frag rack gets the job done. ;) 45 days of isolation (away from fish) eliminates the possibility of any fish disease, including most strains of ich. However, there is at least one strain of ich which requires 76 days of isolation.

TheRealDmorty217 · May 15, 2016

DrCooper said:
Can you use CP on inverts?

Hermit crabs and shrimp, basically anything with a exoskeleton will be fine in CP. have dosed it many times and Amphipods are still easily visible.

TheRealDmorty217 · May 15, 2016

Humblefish said:
I don't dose quite that high with prazi; only 2mg/L. This concentration works well for flukes, but I did notice sometimes intestinal worms would survive through it. So, instead of increasing the dosage for prazi I added metronidazole to the mix; 7mg/L. IME; metro does a better job of eliminating internal parasites, and I didn't want to risk increasing the prazi dosage because of wrasses.

Repeat once a week for 3 weeks or just 1 treatment?

ryecoon · May 15, 2016

So i can dose this directly in the sump without killing any of the live inhabitants but curing the disease.

Humblefish · May 15, 2016

TheRealDmorty217 said:
Repeat once a week for 3 weeks or just 1 treatment?

I dose both prazi & metro twice (using the aforementioned dosages) - spaced 48 hrs apart.

One week later, I repeat this regimen (to kill any hatchlings).

Treating for a third week probably wouldn't hurt anything if you wanted to be sure.

ryecoon said:
So i can dose this directly in the sump without killing any of the live inhabitants but curing the disease.

It will mostly likely kill your corals (if you have those.) CP is a strong algaecide, so it will kill any zooxanthellae living inside corals.

nanomania · May 15, 2016

Should cp be dosed on the very first day in qt when fish arrives? Or should we wait for 24hrs?

MCooper · May 16, 2016

nanomania said:
Should cp be dosed on the very first day in qt when fish arrives? Or should we wait for 24hrs?

great question!

MCooper · May 16, 2016

Humblefish said:
^^This. I place all new corals/inverts in my 29 gal "fishless" frag tank. Just cheap T5 lighting, Koralia powerhead, HOB powerfilter, heater, rock/sand and a frag rack gets the job done. ;) 45 days of isolation (away from fish) eliminates the possibility of any fish disease, including most strains of ich. However, there is at least one strain of ich which requires 76 days of isolation.

I actually think my wife will divorce me if I was to setup an additional tank of any kind. The fish QT tank I just set up was tough enough. I think an additional tank is not an option sadly. Next best option???

Humblefish · May 16, 2016

nanomania said:
Should cp be dosed on the very first day in qt when fish arrives? Or should we wait for 24hrs?

I actually add it to the water before I even put the fish in. ;) IME; CP doesn't have the side effects of copper, except for a few select species.

DrCooper said:
I actually think my wife will divorce me if I was to setup an additional tank of any kind. The fish QT tank I just set up was tough enough. I think an additional tank is not an option sadly. Next best option???

A coral dip might kill any free swimmers, but I highly doubt it affects the encysted (tomont) stage. Seems like it's only a matter of time before you bring in a fish disease on a coral frag if not able to isolate them.

nanomania · May 16, 2016

Humblefish said:
I actually add it to the water before I even put the fish in. ;) IME; CP doesn't have the side effects of copper, except for a few select species.

A coral dip might kill any free swimmers, but I highly doubt it affects the encysted (tomont) stage. Seems like it's only a matter of time before you bring in a fish disease on a coral frag if not able to isolate them.

Well i guess softies and other inverts are easy to qt, but im sure keeping sps lps wud be difficult to qt..

Humblefish · May 16, 2016

nanomania said:
Well i guess softies and other inverts are easy to qt, but im sure keeping sps lps wud be difficult to qt..

LPS are no more difficult to QT than softies. SPS would require a frag tank with stronger lighting & flow. Might even need a kalk reactor to keep up with their demands.

nanomania · May 16, 2016

Humblefish said:
LPS are no more difficult to QT than softies. SPS would require a frag tank with stronger lighting & flow. Might even need a kalk reactor to keep up with their demands.

Thats a task, maintaining an entire new tank for them..[emoji29]

melypr1985 · May 16, 2016

nanomania said:
Thats a task, maintaining an entire new tank for them..[emoji29]

I haven't had any real issues with my frag tank (fishless coral/invert QT) except for algae growth. It's a new tank so I'm still working through the uglies with it. But it's not difficult at all to maintain and doesn't require as many water changes since it doesn't have much of a bioload and only a couple corals at a time in it.

Humblefish · May 16, 2016

melypr1985 said:
I haven't had any real issues with my frag tank (fishless coral/invert QT) except for algae growth. It's a new tank so I'm still working through the uglies with it. But it's not difficult at all to maintain and doesn't require as many water changes since it doesn't have much of a bioload and only a couple corals at a time in it.

+1 Mine is very low maintenance, mostly just cleaning the glass. No fish = low nutrients = minimal algae growth. It stays pretty clean looking.

TheRealDmorty217 · May 16, 2016

Humblefish said:
I dose both prazi & metro twice (using the aforementioned dosages) - spaced 48 hrs apart.

One week later, I repeat this regimen (to kill any hatchlings).

Treating for a third week probably wouldn't hurt anything if you wanted to be sure.

It will mostly likely kill your corals (if you have those.) CP is a strong algaecide, so it will kill any zooxanthellae living inside corals.

Thank you sorry to derail this thread. I was in both the PP and CP thread and commented in the wrong one:(

Humblefish · May 16, 2016

TheRealDmorty217 said:
Thank you sorry to derail this thread. I was in both the PP and CP thread and commented in the wrong one:(

No worries, my friend. :)

MCooper · May 17, 2016

melypr1985 said:
I haven't had any real issues with my frag tank (fishless coral/invert QT) except for algae growth. It's a new tank so I'm still working through the uglies with it. But it's not difficult at all to maintain and doesn't require as many water changes since it doesn't have much of a bioload and only a couple corals at a time in it.

So for a coral/invert qt tank exactly what would I need?