Chronic low alk from LFS.

[mmthrift]

I have bought a few corals from a LFS that is amazing in the last few months but have two specific questioned purchases. For these purchases I tested alk upon arriving home and both purchases, the alk of the LFS water was super low. 4.85 today and 5 for the last one. The previous purchase was a month ago and died pretty quickly even though I raised the alk over several days. Today’s purchase is a goni and a green star polyp. I have them in an acclimation box but what’s the best way to raise alk without killing them? Mostly the acclimation box is too small for even the smallest power head I have so how to keep water moving?

I did get a Goni from the same store between these two purchases and just acclimated it to temp and then added it to my tank without testing. It’s doing ok. It did have a bald spot that wasn’t apparent until I got home as they had it facing the back side. It doesn’t seem to have gotten worse.

Second question: should I do something about the bald spot on Goni in pic? It’s hard to say if it’s gotten worse but would like to properly treat it if needed.

And please, before it comes up, the LFS is one of the best selections in my area. Not shopping there is really not an option.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

I dont know how to best adapt corals from low to higher alk. I know how to make a low alk seawater, but let’s see what others say who may have tried such things.

 

[mmthrift]

I dont know how to best adapt corals from low to higher alk. I know how to make a low alk seawater, but let’s see what others say who may have tried such things.

This was my first thought, make lower alk water to put in a smaller tank so I could get water movement. Acclimate it to that tank and then raise the alk over several days. I was told it was impossible to lower the alk by other groups.

 

[Uncle99]

An “amazing LFS” would keep corals under 8dkh.
What test kit gives 4.85?

Are you sure it’s that it’s actually low, not just test error?

What does the LFS think their Alk is at?

The coral looks like it’s slowly dying and pest algae is taking over the skeleton.

 

[Miami Reef]

This is my experience: just add the coral right in your tank.

In my experience, the coral won’t care about the alk changes from the store to the house.

 

[rtparty]

Dip and add them right to the tank.

I don’t find bumping the alkalinity up or down quickly is nearly as bad as so many think. Especially in a situation like this where you’re going from a “bad” situation to a good situation.

Get them in the tank and let them start adapting

 

[gbroadbridge]

I have bought a few corals from a LFS that is amazing in the last few months but have two specific questioned purchases. For these purchases I tested alk upon arriving home and both purchases, the alk of the LFS water was super low. 4.85 today and 5 for the last one. The previous purchase was a month ago and died pretty quickly even though I raised the alk over several days. Today’s purchase is a goni and a green star polyp. I have them in an acclimation box but what’s the best way to raise alk without killing them? Mostly the acclimation box is too small for even the smallest power head I have so how to keep water moving?

I did get a Goni from the same store between these two purchases and just acclimated it to temp and then added it to my tank without testing. It’s doing ok. It did have a bald spot that wasn’t apparent until I got home as they had it facing the back side. It doesn’t seem to have gotten worse.

Second question: should I do something about the bald spot on Goni in pic? It’s hard to say if it’s gotten worse but would like to properly treat it if needed.

And please, before it comes up, the LFS is one of the best selections in my area. Not shopping there is really not an option.

Most LFS try to keep their Alk somewhere close to Sea water, so receiving a coral in water around 6dkH is not unusual for me.

I don't normally try to acclimate, just pop them in the tank after a coral dip and I've never seen a problem.

Are you certain that your Alk test is correct?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

was told it was impossible to lower the alk by other groups.

Well, avoid taking chemistry advice from them. lol

There are two main ways to reduce alk: muriatic acid and sodium bisulfate. Here’s a direction thread on the latter.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/s...in-new-salt-water-or-in-display-tanks.362825/

 

[Miami Reef]

Muriatic acid:

Tank size in gallons x Desired dKH drop x 0.123 = mL of muriatic acid to dose.

Do not add directly to tank. Aerate the container heavily for about a day prior to using it to off gas the excess CO2 produced.

 

[underwaterwonders]

Muriatic acid:

Tank size in gallons x Desired dKH drop x 0.123 = mL of muriatic acid to dose.

Do not add directly to tank. Aerate the container heavily for about a day prior to using it to off gas the excess CO2 produced.

There are several strengths of Muratic acid, which strength is that formula good for?

 

[Miami Reef]

There are several strengths of Muratic acid, which strength is that formula good for?

I’ve used 20 baume 31.45% muriatic acid, and it’s surprisingly very accurate.

I got the calculation from @jda

He never mentioned what strength he uses. He gets his from a hardware store as well if I remember correctly.

 

[mmthrift]

An “amazing LFS” would keep corals under 8dkh.
What test kit gives 4.85?

Are you sure it’s that it’s actually low, not just test error?

What does the LFS think their Alk is at?

The coral looks like it’s slowly dying and pest algae is taking over the skeleton.

I have a feeling they dose daily and it sucks up the alk. It’s a 8’ x 4’ tank loaded with corals. I may call them tomorrow and ask. I have a KH guardian, it’s range is 5-12 dkh.

The algae showed up today. It’s been bare for a few weeks.

 

[mmthrift]

Well, avoid taking chemistry advice from them. lol

There are two main ways to reduce alk: muriatic acid and sodium bisulfate. Here’s a direction thread on the latter.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/s...in-new-salt-water-or-in-display-tanks.362825/

Thank you! My KH guardian uses muriatic acid as a reagent. I don’t know the strength of it but they claim it’s safe to have it drain into the tank so that would explain why.

I wouldn’t trust them with teaching me chemistry. I just asked if it was possible, it’s why I followed up here. I’ll take a look at the link as it would allow me to safely buy from this store in the future.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

FWIW, using the guardian reagent would be extraordinarily expensive. Sodium bisulfate is not expensive and is easier to handle than muriatic acid since it is a solid.

 

[Dom]

I was told it was impossible to lower the alk by other groups.

You may want to vet the information you're getting from the "other" group to feedback here on R2R.

 

[Miami Reef]

Muriatic acid releases fumes. Don’t stand over the open container or cup, and be careful when using it.

Sodium bisulfate is significantly easier to handle (don’t touch it, though.)

 

[mmthrift]

You may want to vet the information you're getting from the "other" group to feedback here on R2R.

Thanks! That’s why I’m here. I forget about this group and most times don’t even know where to post when I do have a question.

 

[mmthrift]

FWIW, using the guardian reagent would be extraordinarily expensive. Sodium bisulfate is not expensive and is easier to handle than muriatic acid since it is a solid.

Yes it would be! I wasn’t going to use it but more just that it explains why it’s safe to let the reagent run back into the tank and not having to dispose of it.

I’m not sure if I will mess with lowering the alk of the water just yet. But it s good to know it’s an option. I will probably explore more of how to keep a Monti as it’s really my end goal and what made me question lowering the alk to begin with. I can’t keep a Monti if my life depended on it.

 

[Dom]

Thanks! That’s why I’m here. I forget about this group and most times don’t even know where to post when I do have a question.

Well... we have many different forums here. Personally, I find posting in the "General Aquarium Discussion" forum the best choice as it clearly has the most traffic.

 

[mmthrift]

Muriatic acid releases fumes. Don’t stand over the open container or cup, and be careful when using it.

Sodium bisulfate is significantly easier to handle (don’t touch it, though.)

Thanks for the warnings! I’m going to hold off on this approach. Maybe the reagent is not muriatic acid as I’ve never noticed fumes. And I’ve had it get on my skin without ill effect. I’ll look into the sodium bisulfate and wear gloves.