Clown Brooklynella?

[sm0ggers]

Unfortunately my resident clownfish is showing raised white irregular spots and a slight haze to the upper body. It's hard to photograph because it's only visible on camera when the light hits, but very visible to me.

We've had her(?) for almost a year but his new clown partner (smaller) was added about 10 days ago and seems ok. The only other fish in the tank is a bicolor blenny.

I have a 10 gal QT but I've never used it. I'll need time to make water and test it, but it'll be uncycled which feels risky. I also ordered Ruby Rally Pro for delivery tomorrow and am seeing a 90 min dip followed by metroplex in QT every 3 days with a 50% water change. Do I only treat the one clown?

Any advice appreciated. Thank you

 

[vetteguy53081]

Unfortunately my resident clownfish is showing raised white irregular spots and a slight haze to the upper body. It's hard to photograph because it's only visible on camera when the light hits, but very visible to me.

We've had her(?) for almost a year but his new clown partner (smaller) was added about 10 days ago and seems ok. The only other fish in the tank is a bicolor blenny.

I have a 10 gal QT but I've never used it. I'll need time to make water and test it, but it'll be uncycled which feels risky. I also ordered Ruby Rally Pro for delivery tomorrow and am seeing a 90 min dip followed by metroplex in QT every 3 days with a 50% water change. Do I only treat the one clown?

Any advice appreciated. Thank you

These are secondary bacterial lesions associated with brooklynella. Mucus generally starts at the facial area as well as gills and spreads across the body producing lesions as it progresses often confused with ich and can turn into secondary bacteria. Other symptoms will be lethargic behavior, refusing to eat and heavy breathing from the mucus.
Typical treatment is a formalin solution is mixed with in a separate container with either fresh or saltwater. Start with a prolonged 60 minute bath of ruby rally pro then at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the treatment, the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
Since a formalin solution is often not available for use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective but now harder to find) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.

 

[sm0ggers]

Unfortunately my resident clownfish is showing raised white irregular spots and a slight haze to the upper body. It's hard to photograph because it's only visible on camera when the light hits, but very visible to me.

We've had her(?) for almost a year but his new clown partner (smaller) was added about 10 days ago and seems ok. The only other fish in the tank is a bicolor blenny.

I have a 10 gal QT but I've never used it. I'll need time to make water and test it, but it'll be uncycled which feels risky. I also ordered Ruby Rally Pro for delivery tomorrow and am seeing a 90 min dip followed by metroplex in QT every 3 days with a 50% water change. Do I only treat the one clown?

Any advice appreciated. Thank you

These are secondary bacterial lesions associated with brooklynella. Mucus generally starts at the facial area as well as gills and spreads across the body producing lesions as it progresses often confused with ich and can turn into secondary bacteria. Other symptoms will be lethargic behavior, refusing to eat and heavy breathing from the mucus.
Typical treatment is a formalin solution is mixed with in a separate container with either fresh or saltwater. Start with a prolonged 60 minute bath of ruby rally pro then at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the treatment, the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
Since a formalin solution is often not available for use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective but now harder to find) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.

Thank you very much. Should I also be treating the other clown that presumably infected the tank, but isn't showing any symptoms?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Thank you very much. Should I also be treating the other clown that presumably infected the tank, but isn't showing any symptoms?

You can as a preventative measure

 

[sm0ggers]

Thank you very much. Should I also be treating the other clown that presumably infected the tank, but isn't showing any symptoms?

You can as a preventative measure

Vetteguy, please help! Over 48 hours ago now I performed the 90 min Rally Pro bath on this clown, then transferred to a QT treated with Rally as well. His condition seems to be improved (white spots less visible, acting normally); but he has not eaten a thing since his capture from the DT. He was eating normally right beforehand. I've attempted frozen food and pellets, plain and soaked in metroplex+focus, as well as algae pellets, his favorite. No interest in food. I also don't want to overfeed and spike ammonia in the QT. What should I do?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Vetteguy, please help! Over 48 hours ago now I performed the 90 min Rally Pro bath on this clown, then transferred to a QT treated with Rally as well. His condition seems to be improved (white spots less visible, acting normally); but he has not eaten a thing since his capture from the DT. He was eating normally right beforehand. I've attempted frozen food and pellets, plain and soaked in metroplex+focus, as well as algae pellets, his favorite. No interest in food. I also don't want to overfeed and spike ammonia in the QT. What should I do?

Not sure why the metro but has to be used precisely by weight and only when absolutely necessary. Metro makes the food taste bitter also. PULL OFF of Metro. Ruby is safe and sufficient

 

[sm0ggers]

Vetteguy, please help! Over 48 hours ago now I performed the 90 min Rally Pro bath on this clown, then transferred to a QT treated with Rally as well. His condition seems to be improved (white spots less visible, acting normally); but he has not eaten a thing since his capture from the DT. He was eating normally right beforehand. I've attempted frozen food and pellets, plain and soaked in metroplex+focus, as well as algae pellets, his favorite. No interest in food. I also don't want to overfeed and spike ammonia in the QT. What should I do?

Not sure why the metro but has to be used precisely by weight and only when absolutely necessary. Metro makes the food taste bitter also. PULL OFF of Metro. Ruby is safe and sufficient

Thank you, I heard the metroplex is unpalatable so I only tried it once. The following attempts have all been plain. Should I be siphoning uneaten food off the bottom of the QT? When should I become concerned about the hunger strike?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Thank you, I heard the metroplex is unpalatable so I only tried it once. The following attempts have all been plain. Should I be siphoning uneaten food off the bottom of the QT? When should I become concerned about the hunger strike?

Yes, reduce debris as you can