Clownfish Dead another with Red eye.

[Tater Reefer]

Hi R2R,

long time lurker so first post! I have a 40 breeder setup and did a fish less cycle. My water parameter I’ll post below (using Red Sea kit). I have about 40 pounds of live (dry) rock in my tank and after my fishless cycle (Brightwell kit) I added 4 small clownfish at the same time. 2 regular Ocellaris and two Picasso designer.
Besides the occasional nip from one of them, they paired respectively and really minded their own business. Things took a turn for the worse when I added my CUC one my Diatom algae appeared.

I added 10 hermit crabs, 4 nassarius snails, and 2 trochus snails. I didn’t quarantine them, just did a drip acclimation for about 30 min and placed them in by hand.

Last Thursday my Picasso clownfish went from actively eating to dead in 3 hours. The last hour I saw it squirming around inside of one of my decorations (aquarium safe barrels) and looked like it was scratching itself against the walls and sand. He was pale, and while researching what I could do, he died. I dropped him in freshwater and the paleness went away, and I thought i saw things detach, so I’m guessing flukes. I live in a small town in Idaho so PlaziPro was not available. I ordered it, did a 50% water change and did a dose of Imagitarium Parasite Remedy so at least I could do something. I also have been over feeding just a bit to help boost their immune system (LFS guidance).

This morning my other Picasso now has red around his eye and looks like he is loosing color. No scratching yet, but I turned off my skimmer and dosed Prazi Pro. I’ve read that the red eye is most likely a secondary bacterial infection, so starting with PraziPro seems liked the best first step. Powerhead is pointing to the surface and I plan on moving my filter bio balls to a HOB filter today since my skimmer is off. I also want to get a cleaner shrimp ASAP. Maybe even from Petco since I can get it today vs a week or two?

Do I need my skimmer OFF or just with the collection cup REMOVED?

Does anyone smarter than me know what part of the skimmer setup ruins Prazi Pros effectiveness?

Also welcoming advice. Literally no comment will be offensive if I’m being an idiot

The other two clowns are doing just fine, and yes, if there is aggression later as they get older, I’ll move them to my 210 gallon I’ll be setting up within a year.

My 40g will be a reef tank, so copper is out.

Thanks!

EDIT:

Water Parameters:
Ammonia = 0 ppm
Nitrite = 0 PPM
Nitrate = 10 PPM
Alkalinity = 8dkh
PH = 8.6
Salinity = 1.025
Temp = 77.8 F

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hi R2R,

long time lurker so first post! I have a 40 breeder setup and did a fish less cycle. My water parameter I’ll post below (using Red Sea kit). I have about 40 pounds of live (dry) rock in my tank and after my fishless cycle (Brightwell kit) I added 4 small clownfish at the same time. 2 regular Ocellaris and two Picasso designer.
Besides the occasional nip from one of them, they paired respectively and really minded their own business. Things took a turn for the worse when I added my CUC one my Diatom algae appeared.

I added 10 hermit crabs, 4 nassarius snails, and 2 trochus snails. I didn’t quarantine them, just did a drip acclimation for about 30 min and placed them in by hand.

Last Thursday my Picasso clownfish went from actively eating to dead in 3 hours. The last hour I saw it squirming around inside of one of my decorations (aquarium safe barrels) and looked like it was scratching itself against the walls and sand. He was pale, and while researching what I could do, he died. I dropped him in freshwater and the paleness went away, and I thought i saw things detach, so I’m guessing flukes. I live in a small town in Idaho so PlaziPro was not available. I ordered it, did a 50% water change and did a dose of Imagitarium Parasite Remedy so at least I could do something. I also have been over feeding just a bit to help boost their immune system (LFS guidance).

This morning my other Picasso now has red around his eye and looks like he is loosing color. No scratching yet, but I turned off my skimmer and dosed Prazi Pro. I’ve read that the red eye is most likely a secondary bacterial infection, so starting with PraziPro seems liked the best first step. Powerhead is pointing to the surface and I plan on moving my filter bio balls to a HOB filter today since my skimmer is off. I also want to get a cleaner shrimp ASAP. Maybe even from Petco since I can get it today vs a week or two?

Do I need my skimmer OFF or just with the collection cup REMOVED?

Does anyone smarter than me know what part of the skimmer setup ruins Prazi Pros effectiveness?

Also welcoming advice. Literally no comment will be offensive if I’m being an idiot

The other two clowns are doing just fine, and yes, if there is aggression later as they get older, I’ll move them to my 210 gallon I’ll be setting up within a year.

My 40g will be a reef tank, so copper is out.

Thanks!

EDIT:

Water Parameters:
Ammonia = 0 ppm
Nitrite = 0 PPM
Nitrate = 10 PPM
Alkalinity = 8dkh
PH = 8.6
Salinity = 1.025
Temp = 77.8 F

Pictures under white light would be very helpful with assessment
What test kits are you using ?
If API, you may be getting false readings which will go against water quality

 

[Tater Reefer]

I'll get some pics when I'm home later today. I'm using the Red Sea Marine Care test kit. Ditched API before starting this tank.

 

[Victory652]

Bump

 

[Victory652]

Pictures under white light would be very helpful with assessment
What test kits are you using ?
If API, you may be getting false readings which will go against water quality

Why would using API be bad? Are they known for poor quality testers?

 

[Tater Reefer]

Why would using API be bad? Are they known for poor quality testers?

In my experience, they always show a little ammonia for freshwater tests. I did a side by side for Saltwater and API said 0 ammonia vs Red Sea said 1 PPM (during cycle)

 

[vetteguy53081]

Why would using API be bad? Are they known for poor quality testers?

They are notorious for false readings and have let down many reefers hence the low price for a master test kit

 

[Victory652]

They are notorious for false readings and have let down many reefers hence the low price for a master test kit

In my experience, they always show a little ammonia for freshwater tests. I did a side by side for Saltwater and API said 0 ammonia vs Red Sea said 1 PPM (during cycle)

Crazy, I have not heard of this till now. What do you all recommend?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Crazy, I have not heard of this till now. What do you all recommend?

Salifert
Hanna
Elos

 

[blaxsun]

The Red Sea kit is what I use and recommend.

 

[Tater Reefer]

Any advice on my clownfish?

 

[Victory652]

Any advice on my clownfish?

If you have a qt. Pull your fish out and place it in there. Do medicine and add selecon to food to boost immune system. Honestly, it sounds like your fish might be to far gone. Hard to tell without white light pictures.

Best practice is to pull them out to protect your other fish. FW dips can help you identify what they issue is. If it's a parasite you can see them fall off after a couple minutes. Looks a bit like a grain of rice or sand.

Fighting a fish disease is hard and it sucks. I cannot in good conscience say that your fish will survive. Not trying to be a downer here but want you to be ready for the worst case. Best case , if it's as bad as you described, your fish will pull through and take a few months to recover.

Hope this helps!

 

[Tater Reefer]

It absolutely helps! Yes I am prepared for the worst. I do not have a qt setup, but that will change in a month or so.

I came home and he was breathing rapidly but there’s no spots or mucus that I can see. I turned my skimmer on (collection off) and the micro bubbles seemed to help him, he’s breathing better. He also ate a bit too and swimming normally.
Guess time will tell on this. I could try a fw dip but I have tried netting him in the past and it’s a nightmare. I don’t want to stress him again. Not sure if that’s the best decision though.

 

[vetteguy53081]

It absolutely helps! Yes I am prepared for the worst. I do not have a qt setup, but that will change in a month or so.

I came home and he was breathing rapidly but there’s no spots or mucus that I can see. I turned my skimmer on (collection off) and the micro bubbles seemed to help him, he’s breathing better. He also ate a bit too and swimming normally.
Guess time will tell on this. I could try a fw dip but I have tried netting him in the past and it’s a nightmare. I don’t want to stress him again. Not sure if that’s the best decision though.

As stated- Increase oxygen which you can see O2 helped. I still suspect ammonia and nitrate issue as I dont think its a disease issue in which other occupants would be adversely affected. In some instances, a FW dip will help but im still aiming on water quality.
One step you can take is to gather a water sample and take it to a trusted LFS that does NOT use API test kits and see what reading they come up with .
Recommended are :
Temp 77-79
ph 8.1-8.3
salinity 1.025
nitrate < .5
phos < .04
Ammonia < .03

If you have coral:

mG 1300
Alk 8-10
CA 440

 

[Tater Reefer]

My water tested good once more, thank you for the parameters.
Update: All three clowns are active and eating plenty of food during feeding. No visible excess mucus. The Picasso’s red eye is much better and I think we are going to be okay. I lowered my skimmers collection cup to start taking some skimmate out again. I plan on doing a 30% water change and will re dose Prazi pro to ensure everything is under control.