Clownfish with white spots and breathing heavy

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Kapachuka3

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As I posted , best is coppersafe or Copper Power which you dont want Any copper in display unless you are planning fish only. In times of algae, etc - Means no snails- No inverts ever


Quarantine tank and treat with Coppersafe or Copper Power at therapeutic level 2.25-2.5 For a FULL 30 days (do not interrupt this 30 day period) monitored by a reliable Copper Test kit such as Hanna Brand- No API brand. Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone.
The display tank will have to be kept fishless (FALLOW) for 6-8 weeks to assure the existing parasites go through their life cycle without a host fish and die off
Ok thank you. I will move my snails into my other tank, then dosenwith copper, thanks.
 

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Also, what would you suggest I do for freshwater dips, this will be the first time I do one.

+1 on this fish having advanced marine ich, not velvet. I don't think that a FW dip will help at this point, but if you want to try, here is some info:

“Freshwater dips” are commonly used to dislodge parasites from the skin of marine fishes. To perform these dips, the fish is captured and placed in a dimly lit container of clean freshwater the same temperature as the aquarium system it came from. Do not use reverse osmosis or deionized water, as there is no buffer capacity and the pH can drop too low. Dechlorinated tap water is suitable unless it is very acidic. The dip container should be covered with a clear material so that the fish is kept from jumping out, yet can still be observed for overt signs of stress. Hold the fish in the freshwater for five minutes to seven minutes. If acute stress is seen, the dip may need to be terminated early. The idea is to dislodge the parasites, without unduly harming the fish. Many aquarists opt to use reverse osmosis water, and adjust the pH to match the aquarium, but this is simply not necessary if the pH of the freshwater is between 7.5 and 8.5. Some advocate to not aerate the water during the dip, but this is incorrect. The water motion from air bubbles can help keep the fish active so that they can be better assessed for stress. Additionally, the air bubbles help dislodge some parasites during the dip process.

Some caveats:
1) Some fish will give extreme reactions to being dipped (hepatus tangs for example), as long as they were swimming well before the dip, it is best to ignore that behavior and continue for a full five minutes.
2) Moribund fish can be dipped, but understand that the acute stress from the dip may prove fatal. The dip water should still be checked for parasites in order to possibly help any remaining fish. Moribund would include any fish that was easy to capture or a fish with a respiration rate of 200+ BPM.
3) Choose the type of net wisely, some fish have spines that will become caught in the netting. Have a pair of scissors handy to cut the net if this happens.
4) Dropping a fish while moving it to and from the dip is common, take care. Some fish have venomous spines, so know that before trying to handle any fish.
5) Fish shaking their heads violently after capture is one cause of mechanical exophthalmos (popeye), so try to gently restrain them in the net while moving them.

Jay
 
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+1 on this fish having advanced marine ich, not velvet. I don't think that a FW dip will help at this point, but if you want to try, here is some info:

“Freshwater dips” are commonly used to dislodge parasites from the skin of marine fishes. To perform these dips, the fish is captured and placed in a dimly lit container of clean freshwater the same temperature as the aquarium system it came from. Do not use reverse osmosis or deionized water, as there is no buffer capacity and the pH can drop too low. Dechlorinated tap water is suitable unless it is very acidic. The dip container should be covered with a clear material so that the fish is kept from jumping out, yet can still be observed for overt signs of stress. Hold the fish in the freshwater for five minutes to seven minutes. If acute stress is seen, the dip may need to be terminated early. The idea is to dislodge the parasites, without unduly harming the fish. Many aquarists opt to use reverse osmosis water, and adjust the pH to match the aquarium, but this is simply not necessary if the pH of the freshwater is between 7.5 and 8.5. Some advocate to not aerate the water during the dip, but this is incorrect. The water motion from air bubbles can help keep the fish active so that they can be better assessed for stress. Additionally, the air bubbles help dislodge some parasites during the dip process.

Some caveats:
1) Some fish will give extreme reactions to being dipped (hepatus tangs for example), as long as they were swimming well before the dip, it is best to ignore that behavior and continue for a full five minutes.
2) Moribund fish can be dipped, but understand that the acute stress from the dip may prove fatal. The dip water should still be checked for parasites in order to possibly help any remaining fish. Moribund would include any fish that was easy to capture or a fish with a respiration rate of 200+ BPM.
3) Choose the type of net wisely, some fish have spines that will become caught in the netting. Have a pair of scissors handy to cut the net if this happens.
4) Dropping a fish while moving it to and from the dip is common, take care. Some fish have venomous spines, so know that before trying to handle any fish.
5) Fish shaking their heads violently after capture is one cause of mechanical exophthalmos (popeye), so try to gently restrain them in the net while moving them.

Jay
my Clownfish has just died, I am going to my lfs and see if they have any treatments for the tank. I would like to get something before my yellow watchman goby contracts it. Thank you.
 

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Also, can ich spread to invertebrates?
Whie the cysts can hop onto inverts when they fall off, inverts will not get ich themselves. Sorry to hear on clown which was infested with parasites and ich was allowed to get too far.
Recommended is coppersafe treatment and a hanna Copper kit as you must monitor copper levels during treatment. Also assume remaining fish will have ich, so a quarantine tank and treatment would be advised
 

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The reason it's breathing heavily is it's gills will be full of the spots preventing oxygen getting into it. An Oxydator would be a great help but you probably would not be able to get your hands on one in time. Manual peroxide dosing would also help.
 

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I will add that if you plant to dose in the tank, you have to pull all rocks, sand, and inverts. Rock and sand will absorb copper (making dosing to a correct level very difficult), and leach it out over time, which will be harmful too inverts in the future.
 
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Whie the cysts can hop onto inverts when they fall off, inverts will not get ich themselves. Sorry to hear on clown which was infested with parasites and ich was allowed to get too far.
Recommended is coppersafe treatment and a hanna Copper kit as you must monitor copper levels during treatment. Also assume remaining fish will have ich, so a quarantine tank and treatment would be advised
So i have another tank. Would it be advisable to move my nassarius snails into my other tank.
 

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So i have another tank. Would it be advisable to move my nassarius snails into my other tank.
As long as you are quarantining fish- Leave them in there. The life cycle is up to 6 weeks and the purpose of fallow is to assure the trophant/cysts have died ff. You can at week 4 do a light surface siphoning to remove any dead ones and assure good water quality
 
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As long as you are quarantining fish- Leave them in there. The life cycle is up to 6 weeks and the purpose of fallow is to assure the trophant/cysts have died ff. You can at week 4 do a light surface siphoning to remove any dead ones and assure good water quality
Wait, leave the snails in the tank while i does copper? I thought u said that would kill them.
 

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Wait, leave the snails in the tank while i does copper? I thought u said that would kill them.
You are quarantining- yes?
If you are treating the display tank- You will never be able to have snails, shrimps, etc. as copper even with removers/carbon always lingers. If you are treating in quarantine tank, you can leave snails in display tank
 
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You are quarantining- yes?
If you are treating the display tank- You will never be able to have snails, shrimps, etc. as copper even with removers/carbon always lingers. If you are treating in quarantine tank, you can leave snails in display tank
Ok i understand now. I am not able to quarantine at this time. You said that snails can have the cysts of ich on them, would that be able to spread to my bigger tank if i move them into it. And if so is there any way i can clean there shells or something
 

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Ok i understand now. I am not able to quarantine at this time. You said that snails can have the cysts of ich on them, would that be able to spread to my bigger tank if i move them into it. And if so is there any way i can clean there shells or something
You have bigger tank ?
Which tank do you keep fish and which tank are you treating in ?
JUST DO NOT TREAT THE TANK WHERE SNAILS AND INVERTS ARE AND WHER YOU PLAN TO PLACE THE FISH INTO AFTER TREATMENT
 

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You have bigger tank ?
Which tank do you keep fish and which tank are you treating in ?
JUST DO NOT TREAT THE TANK WHERE SNAILS AND INVERTS ARE AND WHER YOU PLAN TO PLACE THE FISH INTO AFTER TREATMENT
 
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You have bigger tank ?
Which tank do you keep fish and which tank are you treating in ?
JUST DO NOT TREAT THE TANK WHERE SNAILS AND INVERTS ARE AND WHER YOU PLAN TO PLACE THE FISH INTO AFTER TREATMENT
Yes i have a bigger tank, i was planning on keeping fish in both tanks. Ok i understand so i move my inverts into the big tank so they do not die. Keep the yellow goby in the treated tank for now as quarantine even though i was planning on keeping fish in it permanently. Then once the goby is treated for 30 days i move it into the big tank. Right?
 

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Yes i have a bigger tank, i was planning on keeping fish in both tanks. Ok i understand so i move my inverts into the big tank so they do not die. Keep the yellow goby in the treated tank for now as quarantine even though i was planning on keeping fish in it permanently. Then once the goby is treated for 30 days i move it into the big tank. Right?
Yes
 

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Any tank with Ich needs to go through I believe a 46 day fallow period without fish in it. Any copper treatments have to be done in a tank without rocks and sand.
 
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Any tank with Ich needs to go through I believe a 46 day fallow period without fish in it. Any copper treatments have to be done in a tank without rocks and sand.
Would it be ok to move my nassarius snails into my big tank. Since they would die when i treat copper. And would it be ok to move one piece of live rock that was in the ich tank into my main big tank. Can ich take over a rock.
 

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