Color up sps coral single best factor.

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Wow great info
I use the Hanna test kit for phosphate
I will lower alk levels as directed and max light time.

Would love to use the k test kit.
Who makes the best k test kits and iodine test kits?


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I'm just throwing this out there...my nitrates were just at 60-80(have no idea but haven't tested in a while. Maybe a wrasse that disappeared caused the spike). Did couple wc's and they're fine now. My point is that all the colors on all corals still looked amazing even though the nitrates were super high! I really think this is a lighting issue IMO.


Mike D "like the beastie boys" Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
i only have a few sps, and like pappy i had a major nitrate spike with no change in coloration. actually my fish are what turned me on to it
 
Sahin just did a review of the Salifert K+ Test kit. He really likes it. I'm not sure if its available in the US yet. I use the Red Sea Pro and its a little difficult to notice the color change. The K+ dosing does work, but its more important in tanks that use zeolite media. The media absorbs potassium along with ammonium. You could perform a test, dose, and keep your potassium level where you want for some time. Different salts have different potassium levels. I like NeoMarine Salt.

Lighting also does play a factor in coloration. Some corals become lighter (they have the color "pop") in brighter light, while they become a deeper more vivid color in lower light. Setosa is a great example of how this occurs in SPS.

Wow great info
I use the Hanna test kit for phosphate
I will lower alk levels as directed and max light time.

Would love to use the k test kit.
Who makes the best k test kits and iodine test kits?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
Last edited:
Sahin just did a review of the Salifert K+ Test kit. He really likes it. I'm not sure if its available in the US yet. I use the Red Sea Pro and its a little difficult to notice the color change. The K+ dosing does work, but its more important in tanks that use zeolite media. The media absorbs potassium along with ammonium. You could perform a test, dose, and keep your potassium level where you want for some time. Different salts have different potassium levels. I like NeoMarine Salt.

Lighting also does play a factor in coloration. Some corals become lighter (they have the color "pop") in brighter light, while they become a deeper more vivid color in lower light. Setosa is a great example of how this occurs in SPS.

My Red Sea Pro shows my K at 450 but there's no way that's right since my frag tank and new saltwater tests around the same. I'd be interested to see what a different test showed.
 
FWIW, this thread is over a year old and probably won't be updated. :)

Brandon
 
That's too much daylight at 95% keep that down to 7hrs max.


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I run 10 hours 100% and have great color.

Run any carbon? I have had my sps colour up big time when I stopped running it.

I also run carbon; always have. Lower the alkalinity, run a bit of phosphate from feedings / lots of fish, and skim like hell.
 
I run 10 hours 100% and have great color.



I also run carbon; always have. Lower the alkalinity, run a bit of phosphate from feedings / lots of fish, and skim like hell.
Hello Dave, With LED's at 100% for 10 hrs not knowing what kind of Par that you are putting out could be a recipe for disaster IMO Since running several different fixtures including the So Called best out there and DIY in my experiance 60 % max for 4-6 hrs plus ramp up and down for a total of 10 hrs is what i have found the best with no loss of coral due to frying them. Do agree on the carbon though and have alway's ran it full time too.
Just thought i would offer my 2 cents.
Hope all is well with you and your better half.
Bill
 
They are 3 W bulbs running at about 2 W so it is really closer to 65-70% compared to some fixtures. I've been running this way for almost 6 months with no problems but a slight lightening.

Hello Dave, With LED's at 100% for 10 hrs not knowing what kind of Par that you are putting out could be a recipe for disaster IMO Since running several different fixtures including the So Called best out there and DIY in my experiance 60 % max for 4-6 hrs plus ramp up and down for a total of 10 hrs is what i have found the best with no loss of coral due to frying them. Do agree on the carbon though and have alway's ran it full time too.
Just thought i would offer my 2 cents.
Hope all is well with you and your better half.
Bill
 

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