Coloration in SPS

gflat65

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
3,133
Reaction score
111
Location
Montgomery, Al.
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I recently posted on a question about color in SPS and was kinda surprised to see that many of the posts seemed to support my experiences (most of the time, that doesn't seem to be the case...). I figured it might be time to start a thread to see what other experiences people have had.

To begin the conversation, I think it is important to be honest about husbandry techniques. I'm lazy;). If I have to do a two part addition, I'm not going to do it on a regular basis, which allows my alk and ca to fluctuate a lot, usually well below normal ranges. I also don't do water changes very often (until I stick my hand in the tank and can't get the stink off for a few hours-that always prompts me to more action). I've gotten better, but I still don't spend the time on them I should to hold everything constant all the time. I'm sure PO4 is pretty high, too, based on algae growth.


That all said, here are a few experiences I've had with better coloring in SPS.

While in Nashville, over a 125, I ran (3)-AB 10K 250W DE's with VHO supplementation. AB 10K DE's are more of a 7-8K color (very yellow). The par was through the roof, though. This was before I had a large separate tank for softies, LPS, and zoas (the lighting actually prompted a new tank:D). With razor caulerpa all over the place (not necessarily an indication of higher organics since this stuff grows well even in systems I've meticulously maintained with heavy skimming, etc.), I originally saw a browning of most SPS. LPS, softies, and zoas didn't appreciate the light at all, so they had to move to a different tank. Over time, with low ca and low alk, minimal water changes, my SPS started to color up. It was almost as if they had gotten sunburnt, but held the base tan and continued to color up. Despite the VHO's almost not even being seen through the yellow haze, I had great color. No other changes to the system in that time. Seems to point to strong lighting...

A second experience is since I've moved to Montgomery. I lost all but one of my SPS when I moved, so it was a clean slate. Once again, alk and ca suffered continually. I had been doing two part additions almost religouslty and could not maintain any kind of acceptable levels (dosing 6-10 tablespoons of dry baking soda and DowFlake every other day with levels staying bottomed out). I bought an MRC MR4 skimmer and MRC CR6 Ca reactor when I moved, knowing that my intentinos were for a large, centralized tank room for filtraion of all tanks I could connect. It took me some time to get them hooked up, but I finally did. Hooking the skimmer up seemed to do nothing for the color. I then got the Ca reactor hooked up. Within the first three weeks, my dKH jumped to over 18 for a week or so. With it came a lot of color on all of my SPS. I corrected the Ca Rx issue and balanced the Ca and alk out, and the color stayed. In this case, there were no lighting changes ((3)-Phoenix 14K 250W DE's and VHO's for several years now-these bulbs were changed in Oct of last year, so they continue to deteriorate). In this case, it seemed to be a difference in maintaining Ca and Alk (while I also began adding kalk to the top off to hold my pH in a better range).

From these two experiences, it seemed as though extreme lighting played a huge role (with no other changes and realtively poor husbandry) in the increasing coloration of my SPS. In the second experience, it seemed to be more related to getting alk correct, but several other changes were made to the system (Ca finally came into check and pH was held more consistent). Husbandry techniques have not changed mush over time...

What are some of your experiences in which your SPS colors got better? What did you attribute it to? What other changes were you making in your system in the 3 month time frame before or during the color improvements?
 

revhtree

Owner Administrator
View Badges
Joined
May 8, 2006
Messages
54,083
Reaction score
119,618
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
Honestly you hit the nail right on the head with this wonderful thread!

There are two things that keep my sps nice and colorful.

1. Keeping my alk and cal where it should be.
2. GOOD Lighting. (the higher my sps are the better color they have)

I also believe in keeping my water as clean as possible and skimmed well, but I must say I have slacked in these areas and can still have great color if number one and two are followed.

This is just my experience...
 

143gadgets

Mr. Meticulous
View Badges
Joined
Sep 12, 2006
Messages
6,006
Reaction score
157
Location
D.C.
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I think Mg is high on the list for coloration as well. Once I got it in check and continued to keep it stable i noticed my colors got even better.

Flow plays a very important part as well. More important than lighting in my opinion.

1. Water Quality
2. Flow
3. Light
 

H@rry

Troll
View Badges
Joined
Aug 4, 2007
Messages
3,434
Reaction score
575
Location
Huntsville, AL
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
What about color temp in MH. I have been using 10K because I don't like the look of 20K. I recently bought a coral that was billed as a Solomon Island Deepwater Acro. It was mostly white with blue coralites. Since then, 12 inches under a 400W MH (bulb new) it has browned out. All the other SPS colors are fine. The guy at the LFS said it needed to be under 20K but I ignored his advice. What do you think? I'm not concerned so much with growth, but with color.
 
OP
OP
gflat65

gflat65

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
3,133
Reaction score
111
Location
Montgomery, Al.
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
If it came from deeper, it would make sense that a higher K bulb would be better for it since it would be more used to that spectrum. And it would be typically less par than a 10K (less intensity might make the deepwater happier). Funny how some 'deepwater' acros like high light and some like lower light...
 

bkv1997

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 31, 2006
Messages
1,669
Reaction score
5
Location
Chat, TN
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Well I've had a similiar few experiences i'll share.

I use to have a complete mixed tank in a 55 and decided to go purely SPS and zoas once I moved tanks, now a 92 gallon corner, my colors got better. I was unable to narrow this down it was either due to the removing of all my leathers/mushrooms in the move or because I significanly increased the flow, because I wasn't worried about blowing the softies away.

After adding the CA reactor everything exploded coloration was great growth was amazing, but after about two months my tank started going down hill fast... nothing had changed or it took me forever to figure out what it was... when i finally got around to testing my Mag it was at 700... the addition of TM Magnesium to get it back to 1400 things came back....

Another time I was experimenting with the zeo without the expensive supplements... the plan was to see if it was the detail to husbandry, heavy skimming, carbon, lower alk, etc or did it also require the expensive supplements. I started doing all this in phases... Added a MR-2R...added carbon... when I slowly lowered my alk to the 6-7 dkh range stuff went down hill even had some corals start to receed from the base up....

Within the last few weeks I had another experience.... I had a misconception and kinda thought PAR and brightness went hand and hand... I added some luminarc minis with Radium 250w SE Bulbs and my PAR went from 325 with a Pheonix 14k bulb in a Aquamedic oceanlight to about 650 with the same ballast... I'll probably add the Magnetic ballast in a couple more weeks, but my colors have already seriously started to POP... most notacibly is my pink lemonade... it was on the bottom of my tank and while it was pink and yellow before the yellow tissue now looks like someone got a yellow highlighter after it.

Anyways all this to say I think there are many variables that make up the equation and there isn't a single miracle addition to get those amazing colors.

Things I consider and currently check regularly on my system.
1) Stability
Temp 79-80
Salinity 1.025
Smaller water changes even if done infrequently less than 20%

2) Alkalinity I keep mine between 9-10 dkh seems to be the sweet spot for me.

3) Magnesium I like to keep mine in the higher range around 1400. I've currently got zeovit magnesium pellets in my CA reactor.

4) I personally don't believe you can overskim I'm running an orca 250 on a 92 gallon corner (I veiw a great skimmer as giving you the ability to feed more often), however i will say when running carbon and phosban in two phosban reactors I believe i stripped needed things from the water and no longer run either 24/7.

5) Good High volume, not velocity, alternating water flow is important. My corals love the surging effect created by the TUNZE pumps on the controller.

6) Always/Always/always dip and treat your additions interceptor and TMPCC yea they might loose a little color at first for a few weeks, but a pest free tank is a good thing.

7) High PAR light, not high lumins... This can be very deceiving, I noticed PAR on my backporch on a cloudy day is as high under my MHs...

Just my thoughts and I think all of the above are important.

Just my 2 cents.
 

flricordia

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
May 11, 2008
Messages
893
Reaction score
3
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I have read an article though I do not remember who wrote it but could probably find it again, from a supposed top sps grower, that nitrates brought about from fish poo was a good thing in keeping sps colors intense. Just what I read. I am not an sps fan so never checked it out first hand though the local pples tanks that have highly colored sps are usually the tnaks that do not get alot of attention and have a high fish load.
 

TOP 10 Trending Threads

IF YOU HAD TO CHOOSE, WOULD YOU HAVE AN LPS OR SPS DOMINANT REEF TANK?

  • LPS!

    Votes: 105 49.1%
  • SPS!

    Votes: 98 45.8%
  • Other (Please explain in the comments!)

    Votes: 11 5.1%
Back
Top