Copepod Seeding

[mjszos]

Howdy!

I am in the process of putting together an Algae Barn order for a new tank build, and am trying to understand copepods - I have never seeded an aquarium with them, and don't fully understand what is marketing fluff and what is the good stuff...

Functionally, what is the difference between their various pod varieties?

I understand from a feeding perspective I need to be prepared to provide phytoplankton to supplement the pods (particularly as this is a tank transfer so there won't be much for them to eat), but what is the purpose of the PNS Yello Sno and Pro Bio? What do the PNS products actually do and how useful are they?

Further, how many jars of pods should I seed the tank with? It is a total volume of 150gal, and there will be 4x fish in the tank within a few days of the pods being seeded...

Thanks in advance, apologies for redundant posts on this matter but the sheer amount of information has been a bit overwhelming.

 

[Sophie"s mom]

Look up the different types because some will freely reproduce over time to keep the population up, while others will not. I get the Galaxy pods because that is a combo of 3 different types. I also have it on auto ship monthly. My tank is 90 gallons and I get 3 jars a month. This may sound like a lot, but it helps keep my tank happy. Definitely on the phytoplankton. A tip, I use a piece of PVC and add them after the lights go out for the night, the PVC allows you to direct where you want to put them, like rocks, sand. Rather than just dumping them in. It gives them a fighting chance.

 

[Auru]

Their recommendation for size is 48 oz of the copepods and phyto from: https://www.algaebarn.com/blog/what-do-i-need/#tank-sizing-guide. You can probably get less copepods if you can wait for them to reproduce. Phyto tends to last 2-3 months in the fridge, loses nutrition over time though.

As for the varieties, Tigriopus californicus tends to not establish if they have predators, too outgoing. Apocyclops panamensis does better at lower salinities and probably breeds slower in higher salinity environments. Tisbe biminiensis is probably the best suited for reefs but are the smallest. Look here https://www.podyourreef.com/blogs/c...s-vs-apocyclops-which-pod-is-best-for-my-reef for some more guidance.

The pods should be okay for seeding if you dump them in a tank with rock work or the fuge before the fish are added. Turn off the pumps for a bit to let them settle in and hide.

Pro bio and yellow sno are probably some nitrifying bacteria strain for cycling the tank, their site lists rhodopseudomonas palustris with information on dosing here: https://www.hydrospace.store/post/how-to-dose-the-pns-products. As for how useful, don't know. Never felt the need to use them. They say that the products feed coral but there's research with tracers that shows some coral utilize nutrients from zooplankton the best. That probably depends on the species though.

 

[mjszos]

Look up the different types because some will freely reproduce over time to keep the population up, while others will not. I get the Galaxy pods because that is a combo of 3 different types. I also have it on auto ship monthly. My tank is 90 gallons and I get 3 jars a month. This may sound like a lot, but it helps keep my tank happy. Definitely on the phytoplankton. A tip, I use a piece of PVC and add them after the lights go out for the night, the PVC allows you to direct where you want to put them, like rocks, sand. Rather than just dumping them in. It gives them a fighting chance.

This is good information. Regarding adding them to the tank, I was planning on adding half to my refugium (which I'll be seeding with Chaeto as well), and the other half into the display after lights out.

Likely give them a few days to settle before adding any fish in as well.

Their recommendation for size is 48 oz of the copepods and phyto from: https://www.algaebarn.com/blog/what-do-i-need/#tank-sizing-guide. You can probably get less copepods if you can wait for them to reproduce. Phyto tends to last 2-3 months in the fridge, loses nutrition over time though.

As for the varieties, Tigriopus californicus tends to not establish if they have predators, too outgoing. Apocyclops panamensis does better at lower salinities and probably breeds slower in higher salinity environments. Tisbe biminiensis is probably the best suited for reefs but are the smallest. Look here https://www.podyourreef.com/blogs/c...s-vs-apocyclops-which-pod-is-best-for-my-reef for some more guidance.

The pods should be okay for seeding if you dump them in a tank with rock work or the fuge before the fish are added. Turn off the pumps for a bit to let them settle in and hide.

Pro bio and yellow sno are probably some nitrifying bacteria strain for cycling the tank, their site lists rhodopseudomonas palustris with information on dosing here: https://www.hydrospace.store/post/how-to-dose-the-pns-products. As for how useful, don't know. Never felt the need to use them. They say that the products feed coral but there's research with tracers that shows some coral utilize nutrients from zooplankton the best. That probably depends on the species though.

I appreciate your comprehensive breakdown. Regarding sizing, I did see that article however I also noticed on the Galaxy Pod page for instance that it indicates "1lb" (16oz), my assumption was this was the shipped weight, not the weight of pod+water mixture. If that is the case, then I think I have all of the information I need.

Thank you both for your responses!

 

[EricR]

ReefBySteele website has some good info on different pod types that they sell, including which are most likely to colonize in reef tanks.
*there's a "Knowledge Center" link near the top of the main page

 

[pezcadoazul]

Howdy!

I am in the process of putting together an Algae Barn order for a new tank build, and am trying to understand copepods - I have never seeded an aquarium with them, and don't fully understand what is marketing fluff and what is the good stuff...

Functionally, what is the difference between their various pod varieties?

I understand from a feeding perspective I need to be prepared to provide phytoplankton to supplement the pods (particularly as this is a tank transfer so there won't be much for them to eat), but what is the purpose of the PNS Yello Sno and Pro Bio? What do the PNS products actually do and how useful are they?

Further, how many jars of pods should I seed the tank with? It is a total volume of 150gal, and there will be 4x fish in the tank within a few days of the pods being seeded...

Thanks in advance, apologies for redundant posts on this matter but the sheer amount of information has been a bit overwhelming.

Howdy!

I am in the process of putting together an Algae Barn order for a new tank build, and am trying to understand copepods - I have never seeded an aquarium with them, and don't fully understand what is marketing fluff and what is the good stuff...

Functionally, what is the difference between their various pod varieties?

I understand from a feeding perspective I need to be prepared to provide phytoplankton to supplement the pods (particularly as this is a tank transfer so there won't be much for them to eat), but what is the purpose of the PNS Yello Sno and Pro Bio? What do the PNS products actually do and how useful are they?

Further, how many jars of pods should I seed the tank with? It is a total volume of 150gal, and there will be 4x fish in the tank within a few days of the pods being seeded...

Thanks in advance, apologies for redundant posts on this matter but the sheer amount of information has been a bit overwhelming.

It has been a while since your post. I am wondering if you were successful in establishing pods in your tank. I tried for many years without success. I felt I needed them to feed my mandarin dragonets but then transitioned them to frozen adult brine shrimp supplemented with baby brine shrimp that I hatch at home. When I was trying to establish pods, I ran into problems a few times after adding commercially available pods and phytoplankton including algae or diatom blooms. I once bought chaeto from a reputable dealer only to find it to contain several bristle worms. After 30+ years in the hobby, I am now reluctant to add anything to my tank that has not been quarantined.

 

[pezcadoazul]

It has been a while since your post. I am wondering if you were successful in establishing pods in your tank. I tried for many years without success. I felt I needed them to feed my mandarin dragonets but then transitioned them to frozen adult brine shrimp supplemented with baby brine shrimp that I hatch at home. When I was trying to establish pods, I ran into problems a few times after adding commercially available pods and phytoplankton including algae or diatom blooms. I once bought chaeto from a reputable dealer only to find it to contain several bristle worms. After 30+ years in the hobby, I am now reluctant to add anything to my tank that has not been quarantined.

 

[mjszos]

It has been a while since your post. I am wondering if you were successful in establishing pods in your tank. I tried for many years without success. I felt I needed them to feed my mandarin dragonets but then transitioned them to frozen adult brine shrimp supplemented with baby brine shrimp that I hatch at home. When I was trying to establish pods, I ran into problems a few times after adding commercially available pods and phytoplankton including algae or diatom blooms. I once bought chaeto from a reputable dealer only to find it to contain several bristle worms. After 30+ years in the hobby, I am now reluctant to add anything to my tank that has not been quarantined.

Unclear as of yet, I added 32oz of pods from my LFS earlier this week - I’ve been giving a splash of phyto to the tank daily but I have no idea if anything is happening or not.

I saw a few of the bigger ones in my sump, but nothing of note in the DT yet.

Debating culturing my own pods/phyto as if I choose to continue with this it’ll be prohibitively expensive.