Copperband butterflyfish

[Bucrob]

Hi everyone,

I’ve been going back and forth on adding a Copperband Butterflyfish to my 4ft (120g) mixed reef and wanted to get some real-world feedback before I commit.

Current stocking is fairly peaceful but active:

• 2 Ocellaris Clowns
• 2 Skunk Clowns
• 4 Green Chromis
• Golden Angelfish
• Yellow Watchman Goby
• Yellow Coris Wrasse
• Carpenter’s Flasher Wrasse
• 2 Banggai Cardinals
• Yellow Tang and Blue Hippo
• Planning to add a Leopard Wrasse soon

So, the tank definitely has some competition when it comes to feeding, which is my biggest concern.

I love Copperbands and the idea of having one as a bit of a centerpiece fish, but I keep hearing mixed things about how difficult they can be—especially with getting them to eat consistently. I’d hate to get one and not be able to meet its needs long-term.

For those of you with experience:

• How hard was it to get your Copperband eating in a tank with other active feeders?
• What foods worked best (live blackworms, frozen mysis, clams, etc.)?
• Did it eventually take prepared foods or always require special feeding?
• Any issues with it being outcompeted by wrasses/tangs?
• Did yours bother any corals, feather dusters, or inverts?

Also, when picking one out:

• What are the biggest signs of a healthy vs. risky specimen?

And if it didn’t work out for you, I’d really appreciate hearing what happened so I can avoid making the same mistakes.

I’m really tempted to try one, but I want to go in prepared (or be talked out of it if it’s a bad fit for this setup).

Thanks!

 

[painter1982]

That tank is too small for the blue hippo. Probably shouldn’t add any more fish.

 

[Skippy The Meh]

I debated on getting a copperband for years. I recently (about 4 months ago) put on in my 120 G gallon Nyos tank and dont regret it one bit. Hes by far my favorite fish. They have a great personality and are little acrobats when it comes to getting in tight areas for worms and algae and such.

I was nervous because i too have some tangs that are especially territorial, including a redsea sailfin that can be quite aggressive. But, i havnt had any issues, the copperband is very docile in nature and really just minds his own business picking at rocks.

Somewhere on r2r theres a guy that has mastered training them to eat. He uses blood worms and a product called “Masstik” and puts it inside a shell or rock. The copperbands go nuts for this stuff. I got mine from saltwaterfish.com, he came in a bit rattled from the journey but perked up pretty quick. After a day or two he was eating the masstik product, then transitioned easily to brine shrimp shortly after. TBH i think they are easier than people make them out to be. I just recommend buying a quality fish online vs at a LFS where they get shipped in, stuffed into a tank with other crazy fish and stressed for days before then being moved again.

Good luck! I think youll be good, let us know how it goes!

 

[Tripod1404]

It will have trouble eating fast enough with that many aggressive eater. You should setup a feeding station for it that other fish cannot access to. Their mouths are perfect for this.

 

[code4]

I used masstick, mine wouldn't touch it. I also recommend getting a CBB eating well in an established temporary tank. Mine was in a 100 for almost a year when I added a yellow tang. That tang is a bully. I am constantly adding mirrors to get it to leave my CBB fish alone. I wouldn't try it if I were you with what you have already. Might work. But why chance it? It just as easily won't work out.

Shelley

 

[Marine Betta]

Hi everyone,

I’ve been going back and forth on adding a Copperband Butterflyfish to my 4ft (120g) mixed reef and wanted to get some real-world feedback before I commit.

Current stocking is fairly peaceful but active:

• 2 Ocellaris Clowns
• 2 Skunk Clowns
• 4 Green Chromis
• Golden Angelfish
• Yellow Watchman Goby
• Yellow Coris Wrasse
• Carpenter’s Flasher Wrasse
• 2 Banggai Cardinals
• Yellow Tang and Blue Hippo
• Planning to add a Leopard Wrasse soon

So, the tank definitely has some competition when it comes to feeding, which is my biggest concern.

I love Copperbands and the idea of having one as a bit of a centerpiece fish, but I keep hearing mixed things about how difficult they can be—especially with getting them to eat consistently. I’d hate to get one and not be able to meet its needs long-term.

For those of you with experience:

• How hard was it to get your Copperband eating in a tank with other active feeders?
• What foods worked best (live blackworms, frozen mysis, clams, etc.)?
• Did it eventually take prepared foods or always require special feeding?
• Any issues with it being outcompeted by wrasses/tangs?
• Did yours bother any corals, feather dusters, or inverts?

Also, when picking one out:

• What are the biggest signs of a healthy vs. risky specimen?

And if it didn’t work out for you, I’d really appreciate hearing what happened so I can avoid making the same mistakes.

I’m really tempted to try one, but I want to go in prepared (or be talked out of it if it’s a bad fit for this setup).

Thanks!

The only tank mates that I see as a potential issue are the tangs. How big are they? Large hippo tangs can be absolute terrors. The meanest fish I’ve owned was my last hippo tang. It made my undulated trigger look like a puppy.

To answer your questions about copper bands. I’ve kept several over the years with varying degrees of success. When picking one out, look for one that isn’t too skinny, looks active, alert, and foraging (or attempting to), and get one that is at least eating brine shrimp in the store. Do not buy one that isn’t eating.

The ones from Australia do the best. They are pricier, but they are collected and shipped with more care than their indo counterparts. I had one of these years ago. I probably had him for about two years before I lost everything in my tank to a hurricane.

Getting a healthy copperband to eat is not that difficult. I’ve gotten every copperband to eat just about everything, and they don’t mind competing with more aggressive tank mates for food. I think the main issue is getting healthy fish from Indo or Phillipines which is where most come from. These fish are are often collected with cyanide. They either live or die within several weeks. The other two I’ve attempted, ate like champs (even eating flake), and then showed the classic signs of cyanide poisoning about two weeks in and faded away unfortunately. Australian copper bands are not collected with cyanide.

With that being, you need to QT them. Butterfly fish are susceptible to disease, but copperbands might take the cake. They are fluke magnets. They are also susceptible to ick. They can get extremely nasty bacterial infections. Thankfully, I’ve never had to deal with this myself. I have also seen them with uronema which is another nasty parasite. I’m not trying to scare you with this, but it’s just a heads up.

You can keep them in reef tanks, but it’s risky. They will likely pick at/eat tube worms, clams, fleshy LPS (ie trachies, acanthos, cynarina, etc.), possibly anemones, and zoas. My first copperband was model citizen, but every fish is different.

I’m considering adding an Australian copperband to my FOWLR tanks sometime soon. I have too many fleshy LPS that I don’t want to risk. I’m done with the ones from Indo and Phillipines.

 

[ReefHunter006]

Man I just went down memory lane looking at pictures of my copperband. Lots has happened since I got him in in late 2023. Anyway, dude is about 2.5 years old now and one of my favorites. Loves eating scallop out if my hand cause I keep the sail fin, lieutenant, orange shoulder, blue tang, and clown fish from interrupting him. I used freeze dried mysis alot in a special feeder for him. The other fish learn quick and eat out of it now but I dont have a shy one. Had to go way back to find a picture with his feeder.

Anyway on to your questions.

• How hard was it to get your Copperband eating in a tank with other active feeders?

In my case, not difficult. He was QT by dr reef and arrived healthly. A tad skinny but strong.

• What foods worked best (live blackworms, frozen mysis, clams, etc.)?

Frozen mysis, brine, freeze dried mysis, scallop, and usually anything else I put in his feeder or the chum ball feeders. I have live rock now, but didnt the first two years I had him. He survived tank crashes and bunch of other crap. I also run a UV.

• Did it eventually take prepared foods or always require special feeding?

All the fish eat out of the chum ball feeders or his special feeder, the hippo tang loves eating out of his feeder. I had feed him like once a month strictly cause its fun not because he needs it. He has no issue eating out of those feeders with the other fish. If I broadcasted all the food then he would likely struggle.

• Any issues with it being outcompeted by wrasses/tangs?

No, they are usually more worried about fighting each other.

• Did yours bother any corals, feather dusters, or inverts?

Loves feather dusters,

Also, when picking one out:

• What are the biggest signs of a healthy vs. risky specimen?

I was at the mercy of DR reef for that choice.

I should add that I dont think mine is abnormal, but I do think it was a very strong fish. I had two before him from local fish shops that perished within a month from ich. These fish will just stop eating if the slightest thing is wrong, which is why I think most struggle.

 

[code4]

I have this feeder also. I need to drag it back out. Photo is of @ReefHunter006 CBB

 

[Bucrob]

The only tank mates that I see as a potential issue are the tangs. How big are they? Large hippo tangs can be absolute terrors. The meanest fish I’ve owned was my last hippo tang. It made my undulated trigger look like a puppy.

To answer your questions about copper bands. I’ve kept several over the years with varying degrees of success. When picking one out, look for one that isn’t too skinny, looks active, alert, and foraging (or attempting to), and get one that is at least eating brine shrimp in the store. Do not buy one that isn’t eating.

The ones from Australia do the best. They are pricier, but they are collected and shipped with more care than their indo counterparts. I had one of these years ago. I probably had him for about two years before I lost everything in my tank to a hurricane.

Getting a healthy copperband to eat is not that difficult. I’ve gotten every copperband to eat just about everything, and they don’t mind competing with more aggressive tank mates for food. I think the main issue is getting healthy fish from Indo or Phillipines which is where most come from. These fish are are often collected with cyanide. They either live or die within several weeks. The other two I’ve attempted, ate like champs (even eating flake), and then showed the classic signs of cyanide poisoning about two weeks in and faded away unfortunately. Australian copper bands are not collected with cyanide.

With that being, you need to QT them. Butterfly fish are susceptible to disease, but copperbands might take the cake. They are fluke magnets. They are also susceptible to ick. They can get extremely nasty bacterial infections. Thankfully, I’ve never had to deal with this myself. I have also seen them with uronema which is another nasty parasite. I’m not trying to scare you with this, but it’s just a heads up.

You can keep them in reef tanks, but it’s risky. They will likely pick at/eat tube worms, clams, fleshy LPS (ie trachies, acanthos, cynarina, etc.), possibly anemones, and zoas. My first copperband was model citizen, but every fish is different.

I’m considering adding an Australian copperband to my FOWLR tanks sometime soon. I have too many fleshy LPS that I don’t want to risk. I’m done with the ones from Indo and Phillipines.

Both the tangs are still babies, hippo is about 4-5 inches and the yellow is a tad bit smaller. I also have wiggle room in my nutrients to overfeed if I need to, nitrate is at 10.4 and phosphate is at 0.09 but I have phosphate E on standby

 

[Bucrob]

I debated on getting a copperband for years. I recently (about 4 months ago) put on in my 120 G gallon Nyos tank and dont regret it one bit. Hes by far my favorite fish. They have a great personality and are little acrobats when it comes to getting in tight areas for worms and algae and such.

I was nervous because i too have some tangs that are especially territorial, including a redsea sailfin that can be quite aggressive. But, i havnt had any issues, the copperband is very docile in nature and really just minds his own business picking at rocks.

Somewhere on r2r theres a guy that has mastered training them to eat. He uses blood worms and a product called “Masstik” and puts it inside a shell or rock. The copperbands go nuts for this stuff. I got mine from saltwaterfish.com, he came in a bit rattled from the journey but perked up pretty quick. After a day or two he was eating the masstik product, then transitioned easily to brine shrimp shortly after. TBH i think they are easier than people make them out to be. I just recommend buying a quality fish online vs at a LFS where they get shipped in, stuffed into a tank with other crazy fish and stressed for days before then being moved again.

Good luck! I think youll be good, let us know how it goes!

Do you happen to know the persons username that has had luck with them? I would like to talk with him about it

 

[exnisstech]

I have had good luck training them to eat in an observation tank with no other fish. Mine would eat mastic, live black and white worms, baby brine and eventually on to frozen PE mysis, Rods and LRS. Mine also ate earth worms. Some people have success adding them directly to a DT with other fish but many fail. Also because they are eating at a LFS is no guarantee they will continue to eat when added to a DT.
This is my observation tank where I trained my male to eat. I won't bring a fish out of observation until they swim to the front looking for food when they see me. If they hide when I approach they are not ready to come out.

Mine feeding with the tang gang and company.



PS plenty of mature rock for them to hunt in is big plus because that's how the feed in the wild.

 

[The Ugly Phase]

I have had good luck training them to eat in an observation tank with no other fish. Mine would eat mastic, live black and white worms, baby brine and eventually on to frozen PE mysis, Rods and LRS. Mine also ate earth worms. Some people have success adding them directly to a DT with other fish but many fail. Also because they are eating at a LFS is no guarantee they will continue to eat when added to a DT.
This is my observation tank where I trained my male to eat. I won't bring a fish out of observation until they swim to the front looking for food when they see me. If they hide when I approach they are not ready to come out.

Mine feeding with the tang gang and company.



PS plenty of mature rock for them to hunt in is big plus because that's how the feed in the wild.

wish i had the space for another tank to do this

 

[Skippy The Meh]

Do you happen to know the persons username that has had luck with them? I would like to talk with him about it

i dont. i looked for the original post but cant find it. i just remember that he really advocated for the masstick product

 

[Bucrob]

I have had good luck training them to eat in an observation tank with no other fish. Mine would eat mastic, live black and white worms, baby brine and eventually on to frozen PE mysis, Rods and LRS. Mine also ate earth worms. Some people have success adding them directly to a DT with other fish but many fail. Also because they are eating at a LFS is no guarantee they will continue to eat when added to a DT.
This is my observation tank where I trained my male to eat. I won't bring a fish out of observation until they swim to the front looking for food when they see me. If they hide when I approach they are not ready to come out.

Mine feeding with the tang gang and company.



PS plenty of mature rock for them to hunt in is big plus because that's how the feed in the wild.

I don't have a separate tank I could setup to do this. Would an acclimation box in my main display work or even putting him into my sump with a light and some rocks?

 

[exnisstech]

I use an acclimation box but only when adding them from observation. I would be afraid it may cause extra stress keeping it in one to train but I'm really not sure. One large enough might work. It may very well be fine added to the DT it just depends on the indivisible fish and tank mates. With all my tangs I didn't think one not already conditioned to eat what I feed would stand a chance. Sump could work too. One important thing is trying to find a nice healthy specimen that isn't skinny/malnourished dor the start. They need to have some meat on them in case it takes a while to get them eating.
I use and modified reptile carrier as my acclimation box. I'm not a fan of white PVC so I add some rock to the acclimation box. When I feed the tank I feed the box and all the other fish grab food as it passes through. I think it gives the new guy the illusion it is competing for food which helps build confidence.
My experience is limited to the two so I'm far from an expert. I bought my male knowing it wasn't eating but it was half the price of one eating and i was fairly confident I could train it to eat.

My acclimation box. This was right after I removed the lid and the female swam in and introduced herself.

 

[Uncle99]

Hi everyone,

I’ve been going back and forth on adding a Copperband Butterflyfish to my 4ft (120g) mixed reef and wanted to get some real-world feedback before I commit.

Current stocking is fairly peaceful but active:

• 2 Ocellaris Clowns
• 2 Skunk Clowns
• 4 Green Chromis
• Golden Angelfish
• Yellow Watchman Goby
• Yellow Coris Wrasse
• Carpenter’s Flasher Wrasse
• 2 Banggai Cardinals
• Yellow Tang and Blue Hippo
• Planning to add a Leopard Wrasse soon

So, the tank definitely has some competition when it comes to feeding, which is my biggest concern.

I love Copperbands and the idea of having one as a bit of a centerpiece fish, but I keep hearing mixed things about how difficult they can be—especially with getting them to eat consistently. I’d hate to get one and not be able to meet its needs long-term.

For those of you with experience:

• How hard was it to get your Copperband eating in a tank with other active feeders?
• What foods worked best (live blackworms, frozen mysis, clams, etc.)?
• Did it eventually take prepared foods or always require special feeding?
• Any issues with it being outcompeted by wrasses/tangs?
• Did yours bother any corals, feather dusters, or inverts?

Also, when picking one out:

• What are the biggest signs of a healthy vs. risky specimen?

And if it didn’t work out for you, I’d really appreciate hearing what happened so I can avoid making the same mistakes.

I’m really tempted to try one, but I want to go in prepared (or be talked out of it if it’s a bad fit for this setup).

Thanks!

Added one to my 180g with 3 large tangs, clowns, Anthais, Flame and Longnose Hawkfish, Royal Gramma, Adorn and Yellow Wrasse and Mandarin.

Mine looked good and ate at the store. No marks, no fin nips.

Loves any Mysis especially PE mysis also loves Aptasia (wiped out) and whatever he’s picking out of the rock all during the day.

When he went it he got one fast flash from the yellow tang and that was it.

Holds his own well.

 

[landlubber]

In the only attempt I made to add one it was a fail. As mentioned above the presence of larger, aggressive feeders like Tangs along with a new environment and an already skittish species doesn't give them a whole lot of hope.

 

[Bucrob]

I use an acclimation box but only when adding them from observation. I would be afraid it may cause extra stress keeping it in one to train but I'm really not sure. One large enough might work. It may very well be fine added to the DT it just depends on the indivisible fish and tank mates. With all my tangs I didn't think one not already conditioned to eat what I feed would stand a chance. Sump could work too. One important thing is trying to find a nice healthy specimen that isn't skinny/malnourished dor the start. They need to have some meat on them in case it takes a while to get them eating.
I use and modified reptile carrier as my acclimation box. I'm not a fan of white PVC so I add some rock to the acclimation box. When I feed the tank I feed the box and all the other fish grab food as it passes through. I think it gives the new guy the illusion it is competing for food which helps build confidence.
My experience is limited to the two so I'm far from an expert. I bought my male knowing it wasn't eating but it was half the price of one eating and i was fairly confident I could train it to eat.

My acclimation box. This was right after I removed the lid and the female swam in and introduced herself.

Alright thank you for the advice. If I go ahead and get one, what should I start with feeding mine? I've heard blackworms work but also clam on the half shell.

 

[Bucrob]

Added one to my 180g with 3 large tangs, clowns, Anthais, Flame and Longnose Hawkfish, Royal Gramma, Adorn and Yellow Wrasse and Mandarin.

Mine looked good and ate at the store. No marks, no fin nips.

Loves any Mysis especially PE mysis also loves Aptasia (wiped out) and whatever he’s picking out of the rock all during the day.

When he went it he got one fast flash from the yellow tang and that was it.

Holds his own well.

I have a few aptasia he could eat but would there be any problems with rainbow bubble tips?

 

[exnisstech]

Alright thank you for the advice. If I go ahead and get one, what should I start with feeding mine? I've heard blackworms work but also clam on the half shell.

Mine loved black worms. Many feed clams but I never did. My naso and vlamingii would get them. When i fed mastick I would smear it on a rock so the fish could pick at it. Mine took care of any aiptasia in observation and in the main tank.