Derrick0580
Valuable Member
I had the same issue when my phosphates were high like that. Once I got them in the 0.03-0.06 range everything perked right back up. Alk might be a tad high as well 8-9 is preferred.
Coral bleaching w low par?!!!
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Derrick0580
Valuable Member
Get some phosbond and follow the instructions on the bottle until you get the levels down and see if that doesn’t fix the issue. I bet they are mad because phos is soo high!
Gatorpa
Well-Known Member
Agree with everything you said.I am going to go against the majority here and say that your PAR is too low if you are keeping those frags at the bottom. If the peak PAR is between 50 and 100, and you are also in acclimation mode, you are probably starving them.
Your PO4 isn't just a little high, it is really high if it is truly 0.3 ppm. It should be between 0.03 and 0.1 ppm.
Flow is also probably low if you are running those pumps at 20% and 30%. You are barely getting 10 times the volume of your tank. You should be closer to 30 times the volume for flow.
If you Calcium is fluctuating 50 points, that isn't stable. With the corals you have, you should not need to dose to keep Calcium up.
I agree that Alk at 10.2 is higher than I like. I prefer closer to 8 dKh. That said, many have success at the higher Alk ranges, so YMMV.
Hope this helps.
Although favs and chalice are more difficult generally Candy canes are easy. I have them drop buds that wind up under ledges with almost no light and they grow and multiply.
OP
OP
ordered some GFO, will put everything on doser tomorrow when it arrives so no swings in Ca or Mag anymore. As for lowering dkh without lowering ph that requires muriatic acid and w a 3 yo around not sure I want that in the house and not sure it would cause that much bleaching/tissue recession so i'm going to hold off on that. Guess I'll see how that goes first.
Thank you everyone for the input.
Thank you everyone for the input.
OP
OP
Some good tank news came home from work and my WBTA split! Also got flow up to 50% both powerheads moved them a little everyone except BTA (who doesn't like a lot of flow) seems fine w it. Sure the BTA will move as they see fit. Doser arrives today GFO Wed.
Pic is 2 nems in different parts of the tank this morning.
Pic is 2 nems in different parts of the tank this morning.
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PlumbTuckered
Community Member
dKH is a bit high, but nothing that requires intervention. It will eventually come down through consumption.
Your Nitrates are NOT high. Corals in tanks with higher nitrates tend to do better in my experience.
PO4 can be addressed with water changes.
How big is the tank and how often do you do water changes? How much water do you change?
PlumbTuckered
Community Member
No it doesn't. Your dKH is 10.2 and target range is 8-9. No intervention required for this. It will get consumed by corals over time. I'd bet that it will be in the 8-9 range within a week if left alone.
0.3 is really really high for Phosphates. Target less than 0.1. Surprised you're not posting about algae problems as well
I think your Alkalinity is too high as well. IMO, target 8.5dkh.
Everything else looks fine. Try those two and see what happens.
Personal opinion, but I like to be slightly above natural sea water numbers, as we know NSW parameters work, but being slightly higher you have a little buffer so nothing ever dips below NSW levels. Some people push much higher, but it's risky. Things generally grow faster, but you're getting close to the edge.
I think your Alkalinity is too high as well. IMO, target 8.5dkh.
Everything else looks fine. Try those two and see what happens.
Personal opinion, but I like to be slightly above natural sea water numbers, as we know NSW parameters work, but being slightly higher you have a little buffer so nothing ever dips below NSW levels. Some people push much higher, but it's risky. Things generally grow faster, but you're getting close to the edge.
Not to argue, but to discuss this point of dKH consumption. If the corals are dying what is going to consume the alkalinity? In a growing coral situation, I agree dKH should drop, but I'm not sure about this in the OP's situation?
Derrick0580
Valuable Member
I guess we should be asking what salt he is using as to why the alk is high to begin with.
Your rocks look fairly new, how old is this tank?
James5214
Well-Known Member
Yea as he stated.. I'm going through that right now as I was misinformed at my LFS or maybe they didn't hear me right but whatever. I started using redsea coral pro and was mixing at like 12.1 dkh and I have like 10ppm nitrates and .12 phosphate and it's a 5 month old tank. Well I recently got a torch and know now why the flesh is slowly receding and why my branching hammer hasn't ever fully opened. So I'm in process of daily water changes and will start using red sea blue bucket
Isn't natural sea water around 7dkh?
It drops for a number of reasons... C02 buildup, etc. If you make a fresh batch of salt water, the dkh can drop by a point just sitting overnight. Not a big deal if you're dosing and the tank volume is big enough, but I think the OP will be ok if he just stops dosing whatever he's been using and tests daily to confirm it's coming down. A water change of lower dkh salt might help moving things along as well. Just don't go too quick, OP.
Tonycass12
Valuable Member
With you switching to blue bucket you will start to see things turn around. Shoot for 8dkh and things will be good if nutrients stay about where you have them. You could go up quite a bit too with your nitrates. My corals look best when nitrates are over 15
Yes!
Crustaceon
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You'll see a drop from coralline algae consumption. It'll be slower than coral consumption for sure.
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