Oops! Blue and purple coral colors are usually non-fluorescent chromoproteins, so search for "Riddle chromoproteins."
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
I actually did switch to af but doubt that's the problem. I don't recall having copper levels from the icp of fresh made water.If you're sure lighting isn't the issue and flow hasn't changed... Have you changed sea salts? I just today tested an artificial sea salt and found 0.38 ppm free copper in the water (not from the RO/DI unit. I checked. And the house has PEX water supply lines.) I'll leave it up to others to hash out nutrients affecting coloration. Nitrates and phosphates are quite high along the coast of the Big Island (nitrates leaching from young volcanic rock and cesspools. Phosphate from cesspools) and coral green fluorescence and pink chromoproteins are quite common. I'll look into the effects of excessive nutrients once the lab gets set up.
monti require less light than most SPS so this could be a causeMy red and green Montipora start fading when there is too much light. Make sure you're not blasting them with too much PAR.
How long have you been running the SB Reef Lights?
Describe the color loss. Is the color lightening in the middle sections but not really on say a half inch from the edge?
Lower the intensity of your lights.Not to hijack the thread but that's exactly what my Red monti is doing only the middle is losing color the edges are still red. I switched from Reefkeepers to the Kessil Ap700. What is your suggestions if it's not losing color along the 1/2" edge??
I've had sb the entire time the tank has been set up. It loses patches the edge seems ok but patches here and there.How long have you been running the SB Reef Lights?
Describe the color loss. Is the color lightening in the middle sections but not really on say a half inch from the edge?
The only thing is nickel is at .38If you've got ICP results, look at cobalt and nickel (as well as copper) concentrations. These can quench fluorescence as well.
I might be wrong but wouldn't af amino compensate for tree trace elements when you don't change water. Same with components 123+Let's not over think this. This is key. This is simple imo. I do water changes for a few reasons. I keep mostly sps corals with a few zoas.
I do regular 15% water changes mostly to keep nutrients low, but also to keep trace elements plentiful. When you stop doing water changes, your nutrients rise and trace elements decline. Then you lose color. Trace elements have a lot to do with color. Minor and major. Start doing water changes again. Start with a solid 20% water change. Then do 10% each week for a few weeks. Then move to every 2 weeks, but keep it consistent after that. You have to replace elements with new water regularly.
IMO, keep it simple. I don't dose anything for color. I feed my fish and thats it. Nothing else. Fish poop feeds corals, that's all you need. Been doing it this way for years. LOTS of flow.........
Keep it simple. Nothing can substitute a water change to replace trace elements. Some companies may say that this little bottle has it all.
But Water changes are the big non negotiable imo. Water changes, water changes, water changes.
Check out Jason Fox, we all know he knows what he's doing. You check out his booths at any show he does. His coral colors are spot on. He does 30% biweekly with out fail.
I'm running life bio fill and phosphate minus by afI am sorry if I missed it, but are you running GFO?