Coral disappearing...

saltyfilmfolks

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Here's the reservoir/mixing container. The little legtank is DI water for top off of the main display. The mixing tank is also plumbed into the main system for adding fresh saltwater during manual waterchanges too.

IMG_4147_zpsu0zjaasb.jpg




You're welcome! I'm not sure you have hijacked the thread. I honestly have never seen such a rapid and dramatic change in coloration/growth with any one singular change. The amazing thing is it really only took a few days to start seeing the effects. Everything got brighter, the electric neons got even more electric. All my tiny frags all turned vibrant colors and have started going crazy in growth. It's all just a win win. It was a lot of work to get it set up, but now there is very little work involved at all. Definitely worth every cent.

The best part is the vat is full of Instant Ocean, the cheapest stuff you can get, and everything looks better than ever! :D
Oh my. That's bloody posh now isn't it?
 

Rick.45cal

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I'll let the folks who have used triton testing answer that. If you do multiple tests (fixed time frame apart) then you can fairly accurately determine a consumption rate for most of the elements. All of that is complicated if you are changing water though. So that is also food for thought.

What are you dosing for Alk and Ca? You could try dosing a complete balling solution. Theoretically with your alkalinity uptake you would likely be replacing a significant portion of elements via the third part. It may be the simplest/most employable method in your case. I have heard excellent things about the Triton Core 7 Reef supplements. I am currently trying Tropic Marin Balling solutions, It's a little early for me to tell if it has made a significant difference. But then like I said the constant waterchange thing pretty much took care of that issue for me.
 
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Jakepen

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I'll let the folks who have used triton testing answer that. If you do multiple tests (fixed time frame apart) then you can fairly accurately determine a consumption rate for most of the elements. All of that is complicated if you are changing water though. So that is also food for thought.

What are you dosing for Alk and Ca? You could try dosing a complete balling solution. Theoretically with your alkalinity uptake you would likely be replacing a significant portion of elements via the third part. It may be the simplest/most employable method in your case. I have heard excellent things about the Triton Core 7 Reef supplements. I am currently trying Tropic Marin Balling solutions, It's a little early for me to tell if it has made a significant difference. But then like I said the constant waterchange thing pretty much took care of that issue for me.
For dosing im using Randy's method. Baking soda for alk and BRS calcium chloride. I'm not very familiar with a balling method. Does that include more than alk and cal?
 

Rick.45cal

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Should I try to bring up my PO4? Possibly dose brightwell neophos?

You can to see if it will make a difference. I have and do on occasion. I will only add enough to equal .02ppm in my system at the most, the majority of a time I will just add enough to raise the PO4 by .o1ppm. (This is very little information about dosing PO4 available, so you kind of have to play it by ear). It's worth a shot, if your corals improve you can continue, if they don't then you can stop. Just don't go crazy and overdo it. If you need help figuring out the dosage I can help with that.
 

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No worries! If your system ends up being phosphate bound then it will likely suck up whatever you add within 24 hours. It may take several days of testing and adding to get some to appear. While this is happening you should start seeing your NO3 levels lowering. (These are indicators that the system is PO4 limited, and the bacteria are "waiting" on it so they can consume NO3 and surplus carbon). I'd test your NO3 and PO4 daily while you do this. Have some Potassium Nitrate handy incase your NO3 drop to zero, you may have to make an addition or two. You probably won't but it is better to be prepared.

After you get some phosphate to appear on your test kit 24 hours after dosing I would stop additions of PO4 and wait. Continue testing and try and balance your NOPOx additions now so that the tank balances. Or slowly consumes NO3 and PO4, plan to increase feeding to balance the system. Use your KNO3 and NeoPhos for emergencies. Once you know your system is no longer PO4 limited you can most likely let your PO4 creep back to undetectable, but, you want to make sure your nutrients don't get driven down low and another carbon source surplus builds up

You should see noticable improvement in the corals fairly rapidly once there is phosphate available. (Even in the beginning when your tests are coming up zero, you will see changes). This isn't however a "free ride". Once nutrients become available to both your bacteria, and to your inhabitants, it is also available to microalgaes, so be prepared! Beef up your clean up crew, so you can head any outbreak off before it gets away. Your tank can and will support more life with nutrients in the system. Take things slow, remember even when the PO4 is undetectable while you are adding it, you did add it, and it is available. So don't freak out and add a whole bunch. Better to go very slow. Dealing with 0.01ppm of PO4 is a very small quantity!

Feel free to ask me any questions, if I don't know the answer I will try and find it for you. Like I said there isn't a whole lot of information regarding PO4 dosing.
 
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Jakepen

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No worries! If your system ends up being phosphate bound then it will likely suck up whatever you add within 24 hours. It may take several days of testing and adding to get some to appear. While this is happening you should start seeing your NO3 levels lowering. (These are indicators that the system is PO4 limited, and the bacteria are "waiting" on it so they can consume NO3 and surplus carbon). I'd test your NO3 and PO4 daily while you do this. Have some Potassium Nitrate handy incase your NO3 drop to zero, you may have to make an addition or two. You probably won't but it is better to be prepared.

After you get some phosphate to appear on your test kit 24 hours after dosing I would stop additions of PO4 and wait. Continue testing and try and balance your NOPOx additions now so that the tank balances. Or slowly consumes NO3 and PO4, plan to increase feeding to balance the system. Use your KNO3 and NeoPhos for emergencies. Once you know your system is no longer PO4 limited you can most likely let your PO4 creep back to undetectable, but, you want to make sure your nutrients don't get driven down low and another carbon source surplus builds up

You should see noticable improvement in the corals fairly rapidly once there is phosphate available. (Even in the beginning when your tests are coming up zero, you will see changes). This isn't however a "free ride". Once nutrients become available to both your bacteria, and to your inhabitants, it is also available to microalgaes, so be prepared! Beef up your clean up crew, so you can head any outbreak off before it gets away. Your tank can and will support more life with nutrients in the system. Take things slow, remember even when the PO4 is undetectable while you are adding it, you did add it, and it is available. So don't freak out and add a whole bunch. Better to go very slow. Dealing with 0.01ppm of PO4 is a very small quantity!

Feel free to ask me any questions, if I don't know the answer I will try and find it for you. Like I said there isn't a whole lot of information regarding PO4 dosing.
So should I order some neophos, and begin this?
 
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Jakepen

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I do have red seas coral color kit. Haven't used it, that could help possibly. To be honest I'm not sure how to determine dosing amount though. Anyone have experience with it?
 

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