Crystals in Core7
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Yeah if they drop below 15deg they drop out of solution, I wouldn't recommend microwaving them but just putting the bottles in hot water in the sink for half an hour is usually enough to return them to liquid.
Evaporation really, also not sure what effect it could have on some of the elements if they got superheated. A hot water bath is the preferred method.
K100286
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Like many of the other members I'm having a lot of trouble growing macro algae. I have tried cheato and calupta(sp). Cheato died 3 times and while the chalupa is not dieing it is not growing. My question is how does this effect using the triton method? I have been using it since last august and while my tests haven't shown any real problems, except a high tin reading, I haven't since much difference than before I started. Should I continue even without being able to grow macro algae, and what about the tin reading( I can't see any source for it.). Thank you
If you are having trouble growing Macro algae there are only three main things that you should look at;
1) Lighting
2) Food Supply
3) Flow
1) Lighting is a pretty simple one, ensure that you are providing the correct light for the correct amount of time. We have seen the best results with T5 or CFL lamps with a 6500k spectrum. Photoperiod should be no more than 10-12 hours on a reverse schedule to your main system lighting. The photoperiod can be adjusted depending on your nutrient situation, if you are suffering with high nutrients then it can be increased or visa versa for low nutrients. If you have low nutrients but have a long photoperiod then you will effectively starve the algae.
2) Food supply, by this we mean ensuring the algae is getting the food it needs by making sure we are not restricting it with the use of filter socks or floss, also ensuring that it has access to the correct elements as supplied by the Core7 dosing.
This then ties in with 3) Flow, ensuring the sump has enough flow through will make sure that the algae is supplied with the food and elements it needs. Also as observed in nature algae (especially caulerpa) grows better in a high flow/energy environment.
A side note for when the algae is growing well on harvesting. When harvesting the amount needed to be removed will again be dependant on your nutrient levels, the higher they are the more often you should harvest to encourage new growth, the lower the nutrient level the less often you will need to harvest to the point where the algae bed will self regulate with die back and you can leave it to do it's thing.
Hopefully this will give you some pointers to go and investigate.
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Hello Tim, what happens if I did it without return them to liquid.
You mean if you got rid of the solids?
Then the solutions would not contain all of the elements as some will have precipitated out.
Then the solutions would not contain all of the elements as some will have precipitated out.
Yes. I have to buy a new Core7 set to dose correctly all the elements. Thanks.
Yes,I had the same problem, as my doeser is in a cabinet in my garagE along with the sump. This winter (around October ) I noticed an increase of kh, going up to around 10.8 in a week. Examining my dosing unit I found the kh storage container had chrystalised in the bottom. This was then added by the doser as undiluted to the tank, causing the rapid kh rise. May have to install a small heater?
Pete_the_Puma
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just to be clear:
"2) Food supply, by this we mean ensuring the algae is getting the food it needs by making sure we are not restricting it with the use of filter socks or floss, also ensuring that it has access to the correct elements as supplied by the Core7 dosing."
Does the Triton method recommend: No filter socks right off the bat, or should I remove them later if the algea in the fuge is not thriving? (I'm asking because I'm about to start my 140G SPS reef, buildthread coming soon).
"2) Food supply, by this we mean ensuring the algae is getting the food it needs by making sure we are not restricting it with the use of filter socks or floss, also ensuring that it has access to the correct elements as supplied by the Core7 dosing."
Does the Triton method recommend: No filter socks right off the bat, or should I remove them later if the algea in the fuge is not thriving? (I'm asking because I'm about to start my 140G SPS reef, buildthread coming soon).
Well I had the same question when Trigger systems came out with the new version 2 Triton sumps that have provisions for socks.
I think its to ones liking or opinion honestly.
My opinion is that when the system is new or low on algae after a cropping the socks are there to help contain things. Once there is a healthy ball of algae it takes the place of the sock as its able to trap the particles.
A possible answer to slow algae growth is to supplement Iron.
I was reading another thread here in R2R that made this suggestion.
My system is still in the cycling period, I have the question of when to add Algae and pods.
Algae barn said to add 1 month before fish, BRS recommends one month after fish.
Both have good points.
BRS says add fish first to build up nutrients for the algae as there is nothing there to feed it so it will die off and starve.
Algae Barn says fuge first to build the pod population and have food for the fish.
So who knows, I guess I will toss a coin to make the choice. Heads BRS Tails AB or was it the other way??? LoL
Algae barn said to add 1 month before fish, BRS recommends one month after fish.
Both have good points.
BRS says add fish first to build up nutrients for the algae as there is nothing there to feed it so it will die off and starve.
Algae Barn says fuge first to build the pod population and have food for the fish.
So who knows, I guess I will toss a coin to make the choice. Heads BRS Tails AB or was it the other way??? LoL
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