Cyano after Dino

[OrangeFaucett10]

I think I have kicked my Dinos out completely dosing nitrates phosphates and utilizing g Dino X.

Problem is now Cyano coming in from all the dying Dino. Suggestions on the next course of action.

1. Finish one more dose of Dino X for good
Measure. Do a few water changes and try to remove the extra nutrients naturally? I didn’t have cyano prior to using Dino X that’s what caused the outbreak

2. Using Chemi Clean which is tried and true, but may invite Dinos back?

 

[Spare time]

Could you list nitrate and phosphate? I find cyano seems to flourish in 0 nitrate tanks and dinos in 0.00 phosphate.

 

[dwest]

I think I have kicked my Dinos out completely dosing nitrates phosphates and utilizing g Dino X.

Problem is now Cyano coming in from all the dying Dino. Suggestions on the next course of action.

1. Finish one more dose of Dino X for good
Measure. Do a few water changes and try to remove the extra nutrients naturally? I didn’t have cyano prior to using Dino X that’s what caused the outbreak

2. Using Chemi Clean which is tried and true, but may invite Dinos back?

I would wait the cyano out. It will eventually go away with good aquarium husbandry and strong water flow. Chemical “cures” might lead you back to dinos.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I think I have kicked my Dinos out completely dosing nitrates phosphates and utilizing g Dino X.

Problem is now Cyano coming in from all the dying Dino. Suggestions on the next course of action.

1. Finish one more dose of Dino X for good
Measure. Do a few water changes and try to remove the extra nutrients naturally? I didn’t have cyano prior to using Dino X that’s what caused the outbreak

2. Using Chemi Clean which is tried and true, but may invite Dinos back?

Not unusual to see this occur as nutrients are generally bottomed out and when they come back up often invite Cyano. By what method did you eradicate the Dinos with DinoX ( steps you took in better terms) ?

 

[aggrofish]

I think I'd prefer cyano than the GHA I got after dino-x. We're you dosing PO4? I was and my PO4 went from barely detectable to .2 when the dinos went away. Cyano is easy IMO just keep up water changes and get nutrients in balance

 

[OrangeFaucett10]

Not unusual to see this occur as nutrients are generally bottomed out and when they come back up often invite Cyano. By what method did you eradicate the Dinos with DinoX ( steps you took in better terms) ?

That was exactly the issue, I was running double zero nitrates and phosphates. Day 1 I used 25 ml per the direction it was dosed after lights out. Day two I started dosing nitrates and phosphates. I’m roughly at day 20 tank looks much better, but I’m still trying to zero in on the perfect dosing calculations for nitrates.

 

[OrangeFaucett10]

Could you list nitrate and phosphate? I find cyano seems to flourish in 0 nitrate tanks and dinos in 0.00 phosphate.

About two weeks now I’ve been dosing both phosphates still undetectable nitrates near 15. I was at zero for months so I’m trying to determine my daily nitrate dose

 

[vetteguy53081]

About two weeks now I’ve been dosing both phosphates still undetectable nitrates near 15. I was at zero for months so I’m trying to determine my daily nitrate dose

I would cease dosing no3 and po4 as you may be getting false readings and numbers are higher than you're seeing.
If cyano has truly begun, I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

Some of the most common causes for cyano include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

 

[OrangeFaucett10]

I would cease dosing no3 and po4 as you may be getting false readings and numbers are higher than you're seeing.
If cyano has truly begun, I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

Some of the most common causes for cyano include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

Very detailed thank you I order bacteria too use tomorrow. Can you tell me what’s the deal with dosing hydrogen peroxide? I’ve seen this several times now. Also how long do I dose that

 

[vetteguy53081]

Very detailed thank you I order bacteria too use tomorrow. Can you tell me what’s the deal with dosing hydrogen peroxide? I’ve seen this several times now. Also how long do I dose that

Peroxide encourages bacteria growth which will outcompete cyano and dinos. It is also encourages pod growth and other micro fauna in your system.