Cyano not responding to chemiclean

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My bad... sketch added oval with a distinct pore on on end of the oval
 

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Wasn't going to jinx you by posting this first....but now that we know, go here:
Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

Read through that first post and the links. Ask in the thread (or PM) if you have any questions!! :)

Also, you should post a link to your thread there for added attention. (Re-post your link in the future too so folks there know if you make a significant update here in this thread.)
 
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Wasn't going to jinx you by posting this first....but now that we know, go here:
Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

Read through that first post and the links. Ask in the thread (or PM) if you have any questions!! :)

Also, you should post a link to your thread there for added attention. (Re-post your link in the future too so folks there know if you make a significant update here in this thread.)
As promised, fancier pictures; the criters are 20 microns in diameter. I don't see an obvious flagellum; Are we still sure it is dino... didn't find the online identification keys useful

dino02.jpg
 
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from Phycokey, closes thing would be Stylodinium (Dinophyceae)
 

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I don't know if this has been asked, but do you have a hanna ultra low range phosporous (ppb) checker? I have dinos start to show up anytime my phosphate falls to like 0.01 or below. Dosing phosphate to 0.1ppm does the trick for me! Uv is a big help too if it is the type of dino that goes into the water column at night.
 

reeferfoxx

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As promised, fancier pictures; the criters are 20 microns in diameter. I don't see an obvious flagellum; Are we still sure it is dino... didn't find the online identification keys useful

dino02.jpg
Another method to ID is to record video. The speed at which they move and the pattern. Nice picture BTW
 
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What Mcaroll said^^^

From the sketch, my guess is either Amphidinium sp. or Prorocentrum sp., in addition to the thread take a look at http://www.algaeid.com/identification/, you might be able to match with the posted microscope shots.
very helpful; site,
I don't know if this has been asked, but do you have a hanna ultra low range phosporous (ppb) checker? I have dinos start to show up anytime my phosphate falls to like 0.01 or below. Dosing phosphate to 0.1ppm does the trick for me! Uv is a big help too if it is the type of dino that goes into the water column at night.
i do; it pretty mush always reads zero for me; what do you dose to increase phosphates!
 

reeferfoxx

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mine don't move; perhaps because the've been out of the tank for the past 5 hours
Most definitely. We actually had issues with trying to ship across country for ID. They would disappear before receiving.
 

sfin52

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Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

Read through that first post and the links. Ask in the thread (or PM) if you have any questions!!

I would start here. Read the first page.
seachem has one that people in the above thread are using. Good luck the battle is winnable.

I beat it. My tank looked way worse than yours. I ended up loosing to ducan corals with 1o polyps+:(
By adding phosphates to the tank, blowing the rocks off, using 10 micron sock (water change into bucket) put water back into tank, pulling gfo and establish micro fauna again I was able to beat back the Dino beast. This was a little over a week ago. My tank never looked so good.

Keep at it. Your tank looks great in the video. You'll get it back.

IMG_0536.JPG
 
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As promised, fancier pictures; the criters are 20 microns in diameter. I don't see an obvious flagellum; Are we still sure it is dino... didn't find the online identification keys useful

dino02.jpg
the more i look, the more i am convinced that it is Prorocentrum ... that notch 'v' shaped process where the flagellum comes out of is very obvious; a few examples below
http://botany.si.edu/references/dinoflagellates/prorocentrum_ar.htm
http://botany.si.edu/references/dinoflagellates/prorocentrum_be.htm
http://botany.si.edu/references/dinoflagellates/prorocentrum_fa.htm
http://botany.si.edu/references/dinoflagellates/prorocentrum_fora.htm
http://botany.si.edu/references/dinoflagellates/prorocentrum_hoff.htm
http://botany.si.edu/references/dinoflagellates/prorocentrum_mac.htm
 

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You can add phosphate through either pellet food or Seachem makes a phosphorus additive, just be VERY careful with dosing that. You can also skip rinsing frozen foods if you do that route to add some to the tank each feeding. Either way, go slow and observe. Too much PO4 and you can add new problems as fast as you're solving old ones.

Great looking tank!
 
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