Cyano? Or Dino?

[NickyReefs]

So been fighting this for 2 months now... it gets worse by the day. First month was told that it's cyano and used 3 treatments of redslime and it only got worse. Tested my water parameters and found that my phosphates were 0.00ppm so I read up on the Big Dino thread and did a entire 4 day blackout and installed a UV. First day after unwrapping tank looked amazing... kept dosing phosphates to maintain 0.08. For some reason my tank is going threw 0.04 of phosphate daily. I'm now a month in and this stuff is showing up on most of the sandbed and back on the rocks. 130 gallon system been running for a year. I run skimmer/socks / UV / carbon. Mostly have small frags of zoanthids/ mushrooms a 5 head torch and 1 small hammer. I have plenty of flow, 2 icekap 4k gyres and a good amount of fish and are fed 2x a day a mis between flakes/frozen/nori

Daily testing #s this past month.

Salt 0.025
Alk. 8.5 (solid) Hanna
Cal. 425 (solid) Hanna
Mag. 1290 (solid) Salifert
Nitrate. 15ppm. NyOS
Phos. 0.08 (dosing 0.04 daily) Hanna


Pics / Video attached under blues and under whites.

 

[Idech]

Have you done the coffee filter test to confirm dinos ? Have you tried dosing peroxyde in combination with the UV ?

 

[NickyReefs]

Have done the coffe filter test.. within 15mins there is long brown strands forming. Almost looks like hair. Have not done the peroxide dosing yet as I'm trying to not go that route.

 

[Dan_P]

So been fighting this for 2 months now... it gets worse by the day. First month was told that it's cyano and used 3 treatments of redslime and it only got worse. Tested my water parameters and found that my phosphates were 0.00ppm so I read up on the Big Dino thread and did a entire 4 day blackout and installed a UV. First day after unwrapping tank looked amazing... kept dosing phosphates to maintain 0.08. For some reason my tank is going threw 0.04 of phosphate daily. I'm now a month in and this stuff is showing up on most of the sandbed and back on the rocks. 130 gallon system been running for a year. I run skimmer/socks / UV / carbon. Mostly have small frags of zoanthids/ mushrooms a 5 head torch and 1 small hammer. I have plenty of flow, 2 icekap 4k gyres and a good amount of fish and are fed 2x a day a mis between flakes/frozen/nori

Daily testing #s this past month.

Salt 0.025
Alk. 8.5 (solid) Hanna
Cal. 425 (solid) Hanna
Mag. 1290 (solid) Salifert
Nitrate. 15ppm. NyOS
Phos. 0.08 (dosing 0.04 daily) Hanna


Pics / Video attached under blues and under whites.

How’s the coralline algae growth?

 

[NickyReefs]

Coraline is growing well on rocks/equipment.

 

[NickyReefs]

Stuff is also growing over the green algea on back of tank. By mid-day I can see 100s of tiny air bubbles on back of tank.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Its cyano .
Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations go haywire. Just like when you eat too much sugar and your waistline starts to bloom, the same happens in your tank when concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

 

[NickyReefs]

Its cyano .
Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations go haywire. Just like when you eat too much sugar and your waistline starts to bloom, the same happens in your tank when concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

I've done blackout, dosed bacteria daily for this month. I run only 5% of white light in my system. Water change amplifies the growth of this stuff quickly. I cannot run phosphate media as If I stop dosing phosphates they will bottom out completely wich from what I understand is a bad thing. I have over 10 hermits, 20 snails (diffrent types) 1 urchin, 2 sand sifting stars, and a conch. Only under blue light does this stuff resemble a "red"... under whites only this stuff is a thick slime brown.

Edit: Skimmer is working perfectly and forming a perfect foam at the head consistently...and also using RODI filter for ATO water... all new membranes replaces 1.5 months ago.

 

[NickyReefs]

Top down view with flow off... u can see how thick and how much this stuff covers the sand.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Cant see much as lighting is very blue

 

[NickyReefs]

Cant see much as lighting is very blue

Ya sorry... I've attached videos under blue and white in orginal post aswell as pics.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Its cyano per your video under white lights but not your common type. This is a more slimy matted version that most cleaner crew will not even look at. Chitons, limpets, and larger nerites snails can eat it but cant on their own, You must first Siphon well for the cleaners listed to be effective. Challenge you have is, that this stuff grows rapidly is extremely efficient at consuming nutrients and can handle nutrient lulls opposed to other forms of nuisance algaes.

 

[NickyReefs]

Its cyano per your video under white lights but not your common type. This is a more slimy matted version that most cleaner crew will not even look at. Chitons, limpets, and larger nerites snails can eat it but cant on their own, You must first Siphon well for the cleaners listed to be effective. Challenge you have is, that this stuff grows rapidly is extremely efficient at consuming nutrients and can handle nutrient lulls opposed to other forms of nuisance algaes.

Any guidance for this type of cyano?? I've siphoned it quite a few times only to return to almost full in 24 hours. Should I let the phosphates bottom out? Maybee starve them? Could me dosing phosphate be fueling them?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Any guidance for this type of cyano?? I've siphoned it quite a few times only to return to almost full in 24 hours.

Treat it as you would dino as it resonds to light. No need for backout but a light reduction, adding liquid bacteria during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons for up to 10 days

 

[NickyReefs]

Treat it as you would dino as it resonds to light. No need for backout but a light reduction, adding liquid bacteria during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons for up to 10 days

Thank you!, much appreciated!! I'm gonna start that routine monday and see what happens. Gonna syphon as much as I can and shoot for a 5hr photo period at 50% intensity and dose 1.5ml of bacteria per 10 gallon for 10 days. I'm assuming I should shut down the UV during this time of dosing bacteria?

 

[Uncle99]

Does it leave the sand at night, but return daily when lights on?
if so that’s Dino.

If stays when dark as well as light. Cyano or Diatoms.

 

[Cnidoblast]

also run activated carbon

Thank you!, much appreciated!! I'm gonna start that routine monday and see what happens. Gonna syphon as much as I can and shoot for a 5hr photo period at 50% intensity and dose 1.5ml of bacteria per 10 gallon for 10 days. I'm assuming I should shut down the UV during this time of dosing bacteria?

 

[NickyReefs]

Does it leave the sand at night, but return daily when lights on?
if so that’s Dino.

If stays when dark as well as light. Cyano or Diatoms.

So it's gets way less at night but dose not completely go away. I would say 1/2 as bad at night. During the day when it's fully blooming I can watch strands of it fly off the bottom and Into the water colum and smashing into rocks.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Thank you!, much appreciated!! I'm gonna start that routine monday and see what happens. Gonna syphon as much as I can and shoot for a 5hr photo period at 50% intensity and dose 1.5ml of bacteria per 10 gallon for 10 days. I'm assuming I should shut down the UV during this time of dosing bacteria?

You can run UV. Clean filters daily

 

[vetteguy53081]

Does it leave the sand at night, but return daily when lights on?
if so that’s Dino.

If stays when dark as well as light. Cyano or Diatoms.

Cyano does the same- They are photosynthetic and feed off light