Cyano? Or Dino?

[NickyReefs]

Oh I thought you just did the black out and the bacteria in the morning. I did not see where you said you did the peroxide.

Hahah im sorry there just a ton of confusion.

Originally I did 3 treatments of redslime remover for it to only get worse. Then I realsied my phosphate was 0.00 . Did a 4 day full blackout and been dosing phosphate to maintain a level thinking it was dinos wich for a month had no change (came back in days) I made this thread and was told by Mr vette that it is indeed cyano. Orginal suggestion was no need for a blackout and just to reduce lighting and dose bacteria wich made 0 impact and only got worse. Now he recommends doing a 5-7 day blackout with peroxide dosing. Wich I have just dosed my first dose into the tank.

 

[Bombschell]

Hahah im sorry there just a ton of confusion.

Originally I did 3 treatments of redslime remover for it to only get worse. Then I realsied my phosphate was 0.00 . Did a 4 day full blackout and been dosing phosphate to maintain a level thinking it was dinos wich for a month had no change (came back in days) I made this thread and was told by Mr vette that it is indeed cyano. Orginal suggestion was no need for a blackout and just to reduce lighting and dose bacteria wich made 0 impact and only got worse. Now he recommends doing a 5-7 day blackout with peroxide dosing. Wich I have just dosed my first dose into the tank.

I think you missed an important step. This is the quote from Vetteguy's reply to this thread on Friday

"I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check."

This was the same advice that he gave me in a very similar thread I posted about 2 weeks before you.

 

[NickyReefs]

I think you missed an important step. This is the quote from Vetteguy's reply to this thread on Friday

"I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check."

This was the same advice that he gave me in a very similar thread I posted about 2 weeks before you.

I did see this but after I explained that I did a blackout, don't run whites, yada yada the reply was that I do not have the "common type" of cyano and was told:

"Treat it as you would dino as it resonds to light. No need for backout but a light reduction, adding liquid bacteria during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons for up to 10 days"

Wich is what I did for it to only get worse. So I took it as the orginal advice was no good for my "type" of cyano and new advice was

 

[Bombschell]

Got you.

 

[NickyReefs]

Update

Yes- Lights MUST be Off. 5-7 day blackout is imperitive. Also, must add 3% hydrogen Peroxide at 1.5ml per 10 gallons at night.

Update 1/5/22 my lights have been at 20% blue only for over a week with 5hr schedule and have been dosing 1.5ml h202 per 10 gallons twice a day and bacteria 1x a day. The slime is still spreading rapidly taking over sand. It's now showing up on rockwork and tips of corals. Mats starting to grow up front of glass, growing over coraline algea. And growing over all the gha on back of tank. Any more advise and nothing seems to be working or even helping.

Parameters as stable as can be.

Salt - 0.025
Not- 15
Po4 - 0.15
Alk - 8.9
Cal - 415
Mag - 1350

I'm at wits end of this... it's been well over 2 months of 0 sighns of any progress... redslime remover/adding bacteria / dimming lights / blackouts / and even dosing h202 every 12 hours and this stuff continues to grow.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Update

Update 1/5/22 my lights have been at 20% blue only for over a week with 5hr schedule and have been dosing 1.5ml per 10 gallons twice a day and bacteria 1x a day. The slime is still spreading rapidly taking over sand. It's now showing up on rockwork and tips of corals. Mats starting to grow up front of glass, growing over coraline algea. And growing over all the gha on back of tank. Any more advise and nothing seems to be working or even helping.

Parameters as stable as can be.

Salt - 0.025
Not- 15
Po4 - 0.15
Alk - 8.9
Cal - 415
Mag - 1350

I'm at wits end of this... it's been well over 2 months of 0 sighns of any progress... redslime remover/adding bacteria / dimming lights / blackouts / and even dosing h202 every 12 hours and this stuff continues to grow.

Your PO4 is high.... but you refuse to do full blackout. Too much H202.
3% peroxide at 1ml per 10 Gallons at NIGHT, not during the day. This has to be done specifically to succeed. 3 people this week that said they just got done and elated with looks of tank

Any Pics of tank as it looks today ?

 

[NickyReefs]

Your PO4 is high.... but you refuse to do full blackout. Too much H202.
3% peroxide at 1ml per 10 Gallons at NIGHT, not during the day. This has to be done specifically to succeed. 3 people this week that said they just got done and elated with looks of tank

Any Pics of tank as it looks today ?

To be more specific.

I've done a full 3 day blackout. 25/26/27. Dosed 1.5ml per 10 gallon at night for those 3 days... unwrapped the tank and kept blues on only 20% (5hrs a day including 1 hour ramp up/down) since 28th - today the 5th. The past 3 days now I have dosed 1.5ml per 10gallon at 6am and 6pm. As of today is first sighns of slime on rocks/back algeaa/front glass/coraline/ and tips of corals. Phosphate is on doser because my tank is consuming phosphate at a rate of .04 a day. Just finished turkey bastering as much as I could off rocks and corals.

 

[NickyReefs]

As I'm typing this I'm watching 1 - 2 inch stands of this flying off the bottom sand and getting caught on rocks/coral.

 

[NickyReefs]

Her is a full picture of the tank. And a flashlight pic of what the mats look like growing up the front glass.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Tank consuming phosphates??
Corals DO NOT like phosphates as it irritates them well. Same applies to fish which do not like high Nitrates and Corals don't like either when at high levels. Corals will get upset when nitrates reach 60ppm and phosphates above .50 .
Phosphates promote the proliferation of brown algae in the tissue of corals, masking the natural color pigments of the corals and causing the coral to turn brown. It also restricts the calcium carbonate uptake necessary to enable the coral skeleton to grow.
I dont want to sound mean, but you barely followed the recipe. Youy cannot fine tune it.

Recalling:

-Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles.
-Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10% max if absolutely necessary) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off.
During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as bacter 7) per 10 gallons.
Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX as it is food for dinos.
Day 5,, you can start with blue lights - ramping up and work your white lights up slowly

 

[NickyReefs]

Tank consuming phosphates??
Corals DO NOT like phosphates as it irritates them well. Same applies to fish which do not like high Nitrates and Corals don't like either when at high levels. Corals will get upset when nitrates reach 60ppm and phosphates above .50 .
Phosphates promote the proliferation of brown algae in the tissue of corals, masking the natural color pigments of the corals and causing the coral to turn brown. It also restricts the calcium carbonate uptake necessary to enable the coral skeleton to grow.
I dont want to sound mean, but you barely followed the recipe. Youy cannot fine tune it.

Recalling:

-Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles.
-Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10% max if absolutely necessary) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off.
During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as bacter 7) per 10 gallons.
Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX as it is food for dinos.
Day 5,, you can start with blue lights - ramping up and work your white lights up slowly

I'm going to follow this exactly and see what happens. As far as phosphates my tank bottomed out to 0.00 on the Hann checker and I got this slime. I've been dosing phosphates for months now to regain stable level. It's consuming .04 phosphate per day and if I don't not dose this it will bottom out completely wich I cannot let happen because it causes dinos to thrive. So do I stop dosing phosphate and let it bottom out again? I'm sorry I'm very confused by this. Also I'm confused on how I "barely" followed instructions as the only diffrence I've made is done a 3 day vs 5 day. I don't use any NoPox or coral food at all.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I'm going to follow this exactly and see what happens. As far as phosphates my tank bottomed out to 0.00 on the Hann checker and I got this slime. I've been dosing phosphates for months now to regain stable level. It's consuming .04 phosphate per day and if I don't not dose this it will bottom out completely wich I cannot let happen because it causes dinos to thrive. So do I stop dosing phosphate and let it bottom out again? I'm sorry I'm very confused by this. Also I'm confused on how I "barely" followed instructions as the only diffrence I've made is done a 3 day vs 5 day. I don't use any NoPox or coral food at all.

20% blue - ONLY if absolutely necessary. I did total blackout with $3000 + in coral- no ill effects. Dinos love lights- Any light.
Also dose peroxide at 1ml of hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights at Night. 1x per day

 

[NickyReefs]

20% blue - ONLY if absolutely necessary. I did total blackout with $3000 + in coral- no ill effects. Dinos love lights- Any light.
Also dose peroxide at 1ml of hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights at Night. 1x per day

Tank wraped, lights off and first h202 dose done. I'll check back in 5 days.

 

[NickyReefs]

20% blue - ONLY if absolutely necessary. I did total blackout with $3000 + in coral- no ill effects. Dinos love lights- Any light.
Also dose peroxide at 1ml of hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights at Night. 1x per day

UPDATE: 1/10

Just got home from work and unwrapped the tank. There are still some small patches on the sand bed. My only sps coral has really gone white. Had 1 hammer frag with complete polyp bailout and my monticap and digi frag are mostly white. Lost some zoa polyps as well. Fish are a lil beat up but seem ok. Do I continue the dose of h202 at night and microbacter 7 during the day? If so how long? I've attached pictures using as flashligh as there is no light in this room and the lights have been off since I wrapped it.

 

[NickyReefs]

Bump.

 

[NickyReefs]

20% blue - ONLY if absolutely necessary. I did total blackout with $3000 + in coral- no ill effects. Dinos love lights- Any light.
Also dose peroxide at 1ml of hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights at Night. 1x per day

Update #2 1/11

ran the lights today for 5 hours at 20% blue only. The small patch areas are now thicker and starting to look like slime again. I've attached pictures.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Update #2 1/11

ran the lights today for 5 hours at 20% blue only. The small patch areas are now thicker and starting to look like slime again. I've attached pictures.

This is cyano

 

[NickyReefs]

This is cyano

Best way to tackle this problem now? Continue h202? Continue mb7?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Best way to tackle this problem now? Continue h202? Continue mb7?

Both will work but try and hammer down what is causing cyano:
Phosphates may be elevated.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

 

[ajnies]

- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.

I'm curious if you can elaborate on this since I'm not sure I'm following what you mean. Are you saying that if the skimmer is undersized for the tank it might not be operating efficiently enough to remove organics and the build up of organics is causing the cyano?