Cycle confusion. Need help

[Napoliandy]

Hi everyone
I started a new 25 gallon tank 3 weeks ago and I used turbo start. I did the fish less cycle and added ammonia. The problem I think I ran into was that I added it again realizing after that I only had to do it once. Ammonia went down right away but nitrites stayed at 2ppm. I called fritz and was told to do a 50% water change to bring it down because it wasn’t going down.
Nothing changed but then nitrites went down a bit and nitrates started to go up. They were at 35.6 at one point, but now slowly they have gone back down. I don’t know what is going on because the api test kit now shows 0.25 ammonia, but the salifert says zero. My nitrites are at 17 this morning and I need some guidance on this. I usually use dr. Tims and I wanted to try something different. I should’ve stuck with what I know.
Anyway, is my tank cycled or should I do a dr. Tims now to start over. Please help.

 

[Cell]

You are fine to start stocking slowly. Wait another week and you could have just done a traditional cycle with no added bac. Nitrites take awhile to go down but are not harmful to marine fish. You cannot accurately test nitrate in the presence of nitrite so refrain from nitrate testing and toss your measurements on that. Our main concern is that ammonia is being processed.

 

[Napoliandy]

You are fine to start stocking slowly. Wait another week and you could have just done a traditional cycle with no added bac. Nitrites take awhile to go down but are not harmful to marine fish. You cannot accurately test nitrate in the presence of nitrite so refrain from nitrate testing and toss your measurements on that. Our main concern is that ammonia is being processed.

Should I do a water change after the week?

 

[Cell]

Some do it at the end of the cycle to lower nitrates, but it's not completely necessary. If Fritz rep was worried about nitrite, apparently Fritz CS isn't up to date with cycling science which is interesting.

 

[Napoliandy]

Some do it at the end of the cycle to lower nitrates, but it's not completely necessary. If Fritz rep was worried about nitrite, apparently Fritz CS isn't up to date with cycling science which is interesting.

That’s what I was thinking. Ty for your help

 

[Troylee]

If you show nitrates your tank is cycled.. api will always show a false ammonia reading they’re junk and you won’t need to ever use it again on your tank.

 

[Napoliandy]

If you show nitrates your tank is cycled.. api will always show a false ammonia reading they’re junk and you won’t need to ever use it again on your tank.

Ty

 

[taricha]

Nothing changed but then nitrites went down a bit and nitrates started to go up. They were at 35.6 at one point, but now slowly they have gone back down. I don’t know what is going on because the api test kit now shows 0.25 ammonia, but the salifert says zero. My nitrites are at 17 this morning and I need some guidance on this.

On ammonia, API 0.25 should be interpreted as zero. the nitrate is tricky because nitrite (NO2) interferes and so if there's significant NO2, most of the nitrate reading on a test may actually just be NO2. So the weird nitrate readings can result from this interference. Overall, Nothing here looks out of place.

If Fritz rep was worried about nitrite, apparently Fritz CS isn't up to date with cycling science which is interesting.

Or maybe they are aware that their product can leave behind nitrite for a really long time, and a water change is a faster way to satisfied customers.

Group 3 Total Ammonia and Nitrite

....
On NO2, the sand cleared it shortly after clearing ammonia, while Fritz was much slower on NO2 oxidation and there was still trace amount at 34 days, with a slowing consumption of nitrite as well....

 

[MnFish1]

If you show nitrates your tank is cycled.. api will always show a false ammonia reading they’re junk and you won’t need to ever use it again on your tank.

API does not 'always' show a false ammonia reading - but many people do not follow the instructions in the package - which is that an ammonia that is slightly green (rather than pure yellow) - but not green enough to be 0.25 should be read as 'zero' (Not 0.2, .15, etc). I have used them for years with no false readings (of which I'm aware). Whichever test one chooses to use is fine. I agree with everyone that your tank is cycled (if after you dosed the second dose of ammonia the ammonia reads 0-0.25) - assuming your tests are correct. FWIW, 'total' ammonia (NH4 - which is what API measures) is not as toxic as 'Free ammonia' (NH3) - which can vary depending on temperature, ph, Salinity, etc. If you're curious what your 'free toxic' ammonia is, you can use this calculator. Good luck with your new tank.

Free Ammonia Calculator

Aquarium calculator; Estimate the free (un-ionized) ammonia (NH3) concentration, given the total ammonia concentration.

www.hamzasreef.com

 

[Troylee]

API does not 'always' show a false ammonia reading - but many people do not follow the instructions in the package - which is that an ammonia that is slightly green (rather than pure yellow) - but not green enough to be 0.25 should be read as 'zero' (Not 0.2, .15, etc). I have used them for years with no false readings (of which I'm aware). Whichever test one chooses to use is fine. I agree with everyone that your tank is (if after you dosed the second dose of ammonia) 0-0.25 its cycled - assuming your tests are correct. FWIW, 'total' ammonia (NH4 - which is what API measures) is not as toxic as 'Free ammonia' (NH3) - which can vary depending on temperature, ph, Salinity, etc. If you're curious what your 'free toxic' ammonia is, you can use this calculator. Good luck with your new tank.

Free Ammonia Calculator

Aquarium calculator; Estimate the free (un-ionized) ammonia (NH3) concentration, given the total ammonia concentration.

www.hamzasreef.com

Don’t make me sick Brandon on you