Cycling problems

OP
OP
gooicide

gooicide

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Aug 5, 2016
Messages
53
Reaction score
8
Location
Philadelphia, PA
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Spiked up to what number? If greater than 2ppm, then you're in the clear.

What was nitrite and nitrate at when your ammonia spiked and went back down?

There is ammonia that you can purchase to add to your tank. However, you must research which ammonia is SAFE to add without damaging your cycle. Dose a small amount then test your ammonia to see how much it went up and to calculate a formula to get your readings to 2ppm. Once it reaches 2ppm (slightly more is ok as well) time how long it takes your aquarium to bring down ammonia levels down to .25ppm or below.
The ammonia spiked up to waaay over 2ppm, I think it was about 8ppm. The nitrite and nitrate were both at about 0.25. So am I good to do a water change?
 

USMC 4 LIFE

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 27, 2016
Messages
1,081
Reaction score
872
Location
Long Beach
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Oh hell yeah you are definitely good to add livestock to your tank if it's able to decrease your ammonia from 8ppm to .25ppm over 24hours.
 

Ricco

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
May 20, 2017
Messages
76
Reaction score
22
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I know this is an old post but I have a question.
I just started my second tank and tried to move it along a little quick. I used instance Ocean salt and Dr. Tims to do a fishless cycle. During the cycle the tank did complete the cycle process I had the following Parms: NH3 - 0, No2 - 0 and No3 .025.

Mistake:
I did a water change to early after the fishless cycle prior to adding any livestock. I tried to correct this by adding more bacteria to eat the ammonia and lower nitrites this did work and then I added 3 Green chromis to the tank which did give a small ammonia spike (expected) NO3 - 10 and a couple days later No3 went up to (20). Shortly after I moved over my RBTA and pipe organ shortly after that I moved the rest of my livestock to the new tank (not my intentions), livestock includes 2 clowns, 1 hippo tang, 1 royal grama, 1 yellow watchman gobby and a blood shrimp. I did drip acclimate before the transfer I also moved all my coral. Just to add fuel to the fire I now have diatom bloom which was expected it's not that bad. No CUC yet.

Currently, my parameters are: I have already added more bacteria to the tank
NH3 - 0.25 ( this keeps changing)
No2 - 0
No3 - 0.25
Po4 - 0.25
PH -8.2
CA- 460
Alk - 13

Question:
I would like to know if I should use Phos - Zorb to lower my ph. I have used it on my old tank religiously just not sure if its to early on the new 120. if so should I use more than one at a time?

Tank 120 aqueon max flow RR
90 pounds Dry Pukani rock
Hawaiian black sand
Current Orbit marine Pro
 

sergifed91

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Apr 3, 2018
Messages
1,665
Reaction score
472
Location
Iowa
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I'm passed the cycle stage. got diatoms etc. ammonia and nitrites 0 but just can't get the nitrates down for the life of me. done a 80 % then 2 20% and just can't get them below 40 ppm. Gonna have the LFS retest it tonight or tomorrow. I did have them test it yesterday. one of them ended up coming over and to look at what could be causing the whole issue. he put a thing of BIO-spira in the tank to see if that would kick it off again and get the nitrates down. but will have to get it retested tomorrow. he did say if not. probably a 100 or close to it will need to be done. then I might need to expect a mini cycle from there.
 

TOP 10 Trending Threads

WHAT AMOUNT OF LIVE ROCK AND SAND SHOULD BE PRIORITIZED FOR OPTIMAL BIODIVERSITY/FILTRATION?

  • 100% live rock + bagged sand

    Votes: 34 27.6%
  • 100% dry rock + 100% live sand

    Votes: 43 35.0%
  • 50/50 live/dry rock, 50/50 live/bagged sand

    Votes: 27 22.0%
  • 75% live rock, 25% live sand

    Votes: 11 8.9%
  • 25% live rock, 75% live sand

    Votes: 8 6.5%
Back
Top