Diagnosis on CBB

[Jack_soho]

brand new to the tank, saw him at my lfs and was eating like a champ, brought him home and immediately started hunting and checking rock work, are these lymph’s or ich?

 

[exnisstech]

Looks like lymph but lets get an expert opinion. @Jay Hemdal

 

[Jack_soho]

Looks like lymph but lets get an expert opinion. @Jay Hemdal

appreciate it

 

[exnisstech]

Jay may be away.. let's try this #fishmedic

 

[W31Olds]

Unfortunately, this is Marine Ich and will need to be treated in a Hospital Tank with Copperpower or CopperSafe.
What other fish do you have?
@Jay Hemdal
@vetteguy53081

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

brand new to the tank, saw him at my lfs and was eating like a champ, brought him home and immediately started hunting and checking rock work, are these lymph’s or ich?

Looks like ich to me. Lymphocytis lesions are larger, and most often seen on the trailing edge of the fins.

Can you take another shot underwater lights? A video sometimes helps as well.

 

[Jack_soho]

if it helps at all, i contacted the LFS that i got him from, he said all his tanks are treated with copper and the fish was monitored for 3 weeks so he claims its not likely to be ich

 

[Jack_soho]

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

I still see early stage ich here. Sorry, hope I’m wrong!

 

[W31Olds]

I don't disagree your LFS runs Copper, but most do not run Copper at Therapeutic levels. That suppresses Ich but with Fish coming and going it's still likely to exist at some low level.

 

[Jack_soho]

Appreciate the help, should i monitor him for a couple days?

 

[exnisstech]

As @W31Olds stated above.
Most LFS run low level copper and lower level salinty. Running tanks that way suppresses disease which can then become active when a fish is placed into normal salinty.
I Introduced velvet buying a fish kept in low levels years ago. I no longer buy fish kept in low level copper and or low salinty. I try to buy fish kept with coral and inverts

 

[larrysaltisfun]

Even if the LFS is running at therapeutic levels they could be putting brand new fish in there with ICH ….. still leaves the possibility of immediate transfer to an existing fish like your CBB.

I would think that only if they were quarantining for a full 30 days a tank at a time with no additions during that quarantine and did not have shared filtration between those and had no breech in biosecurity would it ever be safe to assume that a fish from LFS was ICH -free.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Looks like ich to me. Lymphocytis lesions are larger, and most often seen on the trailing edge of the fins.

Can you take another shot underwater lights? A video sometimes helps as well.

Agree on ich and to help with diagnosis, please pot brighter pics using brighter white light, No blue lighting. If truly ich, you will need to place fish in Quarantine tank and treat with Coppersafe or Copper Power at therapeutic level 2.25 for a FULL 30 days (do not interrupt this 30 day period) monitored with a Hanna Brand copper test kit- No API brand. Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone. All other fish in with it should also be removed as they have also been exposed to the parasites and placed in quarantine tank.
The display tank will have to be kept fishless (FALLOW) for 6-8 weeks to assure the existing parasites go through their life cycle without a host fish and die off. Inverts and coral can remain in the display (not treatment) tank during fallow period.
A quarantine tank can be as simple as a tank from a second hand store, a Rubbermaid type tub or a starter kit from Walmart which most of the needed essentials.

 

[Jack_soho]

 

[winxp_man]

Ich 100%. If you kneel down on one knee and look up at the fish, you should be able to the sides of the body with spots. But on this fish it still can be hard to spot. Same thing with yellow tanks hard to spot ich on the body. The fins are usually the tell tell sign it’s ich. I can see the ich spots from the first pic even on the body. The first pic in the post I’m quoting.

All assessments from above would be correct.

All fish as Vette stated above will need to also be QT’ed. Follow the protocol and you will be good.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

As said, 100% this is ich. You need to start treatment for all fish ASAP. The problem is that ich medications take 5 days or more to start working, and the ich parasite will reach an exponential growth phase. If that hits before the medication has time to work, you can start losing fish.

 

[Jack_soho]

Ok really appreciate all the advice, right now i have a 3 inch yellow tang, 5 BG chromosome inch,and the copper band, how many qr tanks should i set up? and should i use freshly made saltwater or tank water?

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Ok really appreciate all the advice, right now i have a 3 inch yellow tang, 5 BG chromosome inch,and the copper band, how many qr tanks should i set up? and should i use freshly made saltwater or tank water?

One larger QT is easier in terms of dosing copper. I think you could house these in a 20 long tank, but a 30 would be better.

The main thing is that you are going to need some sort of effective bio filter. Do you have ANY non-calcium based media in your main tank that you can transfer over?

You’ll need a Hanna HR copper checker and an ammonia test kit. Remember that coppersafe and copper power both give a 0.50 ppm false copper reading, so don’t worry about copper readings less than 1 ppm.

 

[Jack_soho]

Ok really appreciate all the advice, right now i have a 3 inch yellow tang, 5 BG chromosome inch,and the copper band, how many qr tanks should i set up? and should i use freshly made saltwater or tank water?

One larger QT is easier in terms of dosing copper. I think you could house these in a 20 long tank, but a 30 would be better.

The main thing is that you are going to need some sort of effective bio filter. Do you have ANY non-calcium based media in your main tank that you can transfer over?

You’ll need a Hanna HR copper checker and an ammonia test kit. Remember that coppersafe and copper power both give a 0.50 ppm false copper reading, so don’t worry about copper readings less than 1 ppm.

i have some sponges with bacteria on them that have been sitting for a month