Difficult and Special Care Species List

  • Thread starter Thread starter Ike
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users Tagged users None
Update on ribbon eels: After keeping one for 6 years I discovered that if you allow them a hiding tube that they can fit their whole body into, they will eat most of the time. Took a few years to figure out why, but it became apparent: They know they are long and can be bitten in half easily, so if they are not hidden in a dark tube they will be too scared to eat.

So, of all the people who got a ribbon eel since then, and a tube (like 3/4" pvc) longer than the eel, almost all of the eels started eating (silversides, mollies, etc, fed on a stick).

Unfortunately the escape artist part is still true. Open-center tanks are ok however (euro rim all the way around), because the eel only slides up the walls and never just jumps up out the center of the water.
 
Update on ribbon eels: After keeping one for 6 years I discovered that if you allow them a hiding tube that they can fit their whole body into, they will eat most of the time. Took a few years to figure out why, but it became apparent: They know they are long and can be bitten in half easily, so if they are not hidden in a dark tube they will be too scared to eat.

So, of all the people who got a ribbon eel since then, and a tube (like 3/4" pvc) longer than the eel, almost all of the eels started eating (silversides, mollies, etc, fed on a stick).

Unfortunately the escape artist part is still true. Open-center tanks are ok however (euro rim all the way around), because the eel only slides up the walls and never just jumps up out the center of the water.

Good info!
 
Ive found cowfish to be pretty hardy. Once they start going down hill though theres no turning back.
 
Update on ribbon eels: After keeping one for 6 years I discovered that if you allow them a hiding tube that they can fit their whole body into, they will eat most of the time. Took a few years to figure out why, but it became apparent: They know they are long and can be bitten in half easily, so if they are not hidden in a dark tube they will be too scared to eat.

So, of all the people who got a ribbon eel since then, and a tube (like 3/4" pvc) longer than the eel, almost all of the eels started eating (silversides, mollies, etc, fed on a stick).

Unfortunately the escape artist part is still true. Open-center tanks are ok however (euro rim all the way around), because the eel only slides up the walls and never just jumps up out the center of the water.

That is very good info, thanks for the contribution!
 
Thanks for putting this list together and having it handy for everyone to read! Can't say you didn't caution/warn us. I am a newbie so a lot to think about...
 
What size tank? They don't always eat prepared foods, and can get mean as they mature.
 
20 gal with sump (fuge and skimmer. I would also be prepared to feed algae from fuge. Also do you think they would eat algae wafers?
 
Great thread, its always nice to know what you are getting into when you want to buy a fish. I keep seeing people post about how they had never had any problems with (Insert fish here) but its important to remember you might have the exception to the rule.
 
Also with orange spotted tilefish, I know they are Specialized coral polyp feeder but would it be possible to trick them into eating prepared foods by putting a paste like food on a coral skeleton? I have always wanted to have a tank with them but I am going to hold off until I find lots of experiences with other people getting them to eat and thrive.
 
Also with orange spotted tilefish, I know they are Specialized coral polyp feeder but would it be possible to trick them into eating prepared foods by putting a paste like food on a coral skeleton? I have always wanted to have a tank with them but I am going to hold off until I find lots of experiences with other people getting them to eat and thrive.

I have heard a few of such experiences. The magazine Tropical Fish Hobbyist had an article on this method about 4 or 5yrs ago. It is just a pain in the neck to do it daily.
 
I have heard a few of such experiences. The magazine Tropical Fish Hobbyist had an article on this method about 4 or 5yrs ago. It is just a pain in the neck to do it daily.

It would be a pain but its something I would be willing to try it allowed me to keep these amazing fish.
 
Thank you for the great generalized lowdown on different fish! There is so much bad information out there, and it's always great to have an honest list.

For those of you saying that you personally know of exceptions, of course there are always exceptions to every rule. I've been in and out of the hobby for the past 20 years or so, and I've seen an exception to every rule in the book, and even housed a few myself along the way. Every single tank is different and it's own ecosystem that varies as much as 2 identical fish from the same species can. They're individuals as well.

All of that being said, I've taken known, educated risks in the past, and several with astounding success. The key is known and educated risks and being willing to take proper steps to intelligently achieve said goal. This list is a cheat sheet of sorts as a basis for further research.
 
20 gal with sump (fuge and skimmer. I would also be prepared to feed algae from fuge. Also do you think they would eat algae wafers?
Too small of a tank for one unfortunately, both because of their diet and due to their aggression. Look into smaller members of the Escenius genus, like a Tailspot Blenny.
 
I've got 2 bristle tooth tangs and they have plenty of natural algae to feast on!! Lol but it is very true they need nutrients in the aquarium to eat on the live rock!! But the new era discs marine grazer is a life saver! They go crazy for those discs!!!!!
 
I've tried for 3 days now to catch this wrasse in a diy fish trap. I've only been feeding the other fish after he's gone to sleep. Instead of going into the trap, he's eaten my red & white coral banded shrimp, a couple snails, and a small hermit or two. >:-/

Not sure how your DIY fish trap is made, but I've been successful in the past with partially burying a fairly large piece of PVC homemade trap with food inside it at night. I've used a red filtered light (they don't seem bothered by this like white or blue lighting), and manually springing it.
 
Thank you so much for this thread. Really helpful to the novice, and the more I know about compatability, care, habits, etc, the better chance I have of not making a massive mistake:smile:
 
A far as I know Amblygobius rainfordi does not do well even with an established sand bed. The one I had had full access to an established SB and as soon as the hair algae ran out he was slowing wasting away to the point where his stomach was caved. I made the decision to adopt him out to another local that had a big hair issue. Once there he fattened back up. Not sure where he is now.
 
i successfully keep a multibar angel; however much forethought went into tracking down a properly, region specific, collected specimen; and an extensive isolation/QT was implemented to ensure the fish was eating everything I offered it. Not an impossible fish, but **** near it for the novice, and even those with much experience. My favorite fish by far however..
 

TOP 10 Trending Threads

WHAT’S USUALLY THE FIRST CLUE THAT SOMETHING IS OFF IN YOUR REEF?

  • A fish’s behavior or appetite changes

    Votes: 5 9.8%
  • A coral looks different or stops opening normally

    Votes: 34 66.7%
  • Water clarity or surface appearance changes

    Votes: 7 13.7%
  • Equipment sounds or flow seem different

    Votes: 6 11.8%
  • A test result catches my attention

    Votes: 13 25.5%
  • Algae or other growth starts changing

    Votes: 11 21.6%
  • I usually notice when the problem is already obvious

    Votes: 3 5.9%
  • It depends on what’s going on

    Votes: 9 17.6%
  • Other (Post in the comments)

    Votes: 1 2.0%

New Posts

Back
Top
Home
Post thread…
Market
What's new