Dino Battle Question

testuser

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Hi All, I've been battling dinos for a couple of months now in my 4.8g tank and am in a position to be a bit more aggressive now that I am starting from a clean slate with no corals currently in the tank. I tried the BRS suggested method with a 4 day blackout and with Dr. Tim's Re-Fresh and Waste Away (https://s3.amazonaws.com/brsinstructions/brsDrTims/DrTims_Dinoflagellate_Recipe_BRS.pdf).

Unfortunately, during the Waste Away dosing, the sand started to get brown again and I saw small, brown stringy-like things again on both the sand and the rock that blew away easily with a turkey baster. Though I guess what's strange is that they would not disappear at night (possibly because it's such a small tank).

What would the next move here be? Repeat the process again? I've also read suggestions of raising the temperature to 83F for a few days and I am down for that if it's a sound choice.
 

Lavey29

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If it's only 4.8 gallons then rip clean is your best option but you need to identify the source of your dinos so you don't make the same mistake again. Technically dinos need to be positive ID via microscope too.
 

vetteguy53081

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Hi All, I've been battling dinos for a couple of months now in my 4.8g tank and am in a position to be a bit more aggressive now that I am starting from a clean slate with no corals currently in the tank. I tried the BRS suggested method with a 4 day blackout and with Dr. Tim's Re-Fresh and Waste Away (https://s3.amazonaws.com/brsinstructions/brsDrTims/DrTims_Dinoflagellate_Recipe_BRS.pdf).

Unfortunately, during the Waste Away dosing, the sand started to get brown again and I saw small, brown stringy-like things again on both the sand and the rock that blew away easily with a turkey baster. Though I guess what's strange is that they would not disappear at night (possibly because it's such a small tank).

What would the next move here be? Repeat the process again? I've also read suggestions of raising the temperature to 83F for a few days and I am down for that if it's a sound choice.
if this is a newer tank, do a major clean otherwise you can do blackout as you proposed also adding during the night-
1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 4-5 nights which works as an oxidizer. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED AMINO OR ADD NOPOX which is food for dinos, however you can feed coral, food which will help no3 and po4 to increase. If increasing nutrients, try to keep no3 to about 5 until you are done battling these cells.
Doing a daily siphoning will help greatly But . . . . . Siphoning will reduce nutrients , so siphon the water into/through a filter sock and save the water and return it back to tank. Obviously clean the filter sock each time.
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them
 
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testuser

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If it's only 4.8 gallons then rip clean is your best option but you need to identify the source of your dinos so you don't make the same mistake again. Technically dinos need to be positive ID via microscope too.
Oh my... this is absolutely fascinating! I don't know why I didn't do this sooner. Let me know if you can see the images and video attached. They are moving so much! Any idea what types of dinos these little guys are?
 

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Thumbster

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I got on this Facebook group and used their method, mostly.
What I did was:
Dose nitrate and phosphate because mine was zero.
Dose 2ppm silicate daily for a few weeks.
Dose Microbactor7

They’ll tell you to buy a microscope (which you have already) and they’ll identify your Dino’s. They’ll suggest a treatment method.

I never bought a microscope because I was tired of throwing money at this tank so I just did the dosing and hoped for the best. I probably would have bought a UV sterilizer if I had to but thankfully the Dino’s cleared after a few weeks.
IMG_1773.jpeg
 

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