Dinoflagellates - dinos a possible cure!? Follow along and see!

Paullawr

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I don't blame you.

I ended buying a whole new tank and taking the one which were only 18 month old to the rubbish tip. I wouldn't dare sell it in the event I passed on the Dino.

Now did I say there is also a fresh water variety of Dino's..
 

wyattray

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I don't blame you.

I ended buying a whole new tank and taking the one which were only 18 month old to the rubbish tip. I wouldn't dare sell it in the event I passed on the Dino.

Now did I say there is also a fresh water variety of Dino's..


Err My wife would not approve, just bought this tank and if I had to get another tank I would have to upgrade.
 

Paullawr

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Err My wife would not approve, just bought this tank and if I had to get another tank I would have to upgrade.
It was my other halfs idea. Having seen me tear my hair out with the other one.
 

mandrieu

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It was my other halfs idea. Having seen me tear my hair out with the other one.
I think it's virtually impossible to be 100% sure they won't be back no matter what you do so in my view the option is to clean up and sterilize everything (tank and equipment) as much as possible, with bleach and fresh water, run the tank on FW for several days and go from there. Old sand has to go. Rocks, they have to go too unfortunately, unless you do some bleach/acid/fresh water treatment to them and take your chances. I would think what becomes critical at that point is not to re introduce the bug. No old sand/rocks, dip corals and fish, all that. Try to have good bacteria, algae, good critters well established before introducing fish and corals. And yes, pray for the best...

I honestly think we are seeing this massive increase in dino invasions because we import the bugs in frags and rocks and because we muck around with our tanks too much (the myth of the perfect parameters, zero nitrates and phosphates, we dose all kinds of things, we see some algae so we get rid of them eliminating competition) creating conditions for them to become dominant. That's my current state of mind. In my tank, right now, no matter what I do, I can't get any algae! Even if I overfeed, dose nitrates. Nothing. Green is nowhere to be seen. Water has never been clearer. The other day I realized 2 or 3 weeks had gone by without me having to clean the glasses.
 

taricha

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They do this often on me :) I would really like to know whats my new enemy after ostreopsis disapeared.
Sorry for new developments. Lemme read back through all your posts, and see what other clean method options make sense next.
 

wyattray

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As im battling them now, ive noticed an increase in life. All my snails are back in action, it just sucks Im spending an hour a day siphoning the sand, WHERE IS THE MIRACLE CURE!
 

RMS18

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So with some help from @Humblefish it appears that chlorine over .21ppm could cause some negative effects on the fish. 1 tab would generate
.02ppm in my 50 gallon system. Question is would .21ppm have any effects on dinos. I am going to dose .1ppm (5 tabs) and see what happens. I would have to dose all at once so the level of chlorine is exactly .1 ppm. If I dose slowly the chlorine would have time to break down and probally wouldn't be as effective.

I also have Metro which I'm not sure if I should run first or run after the chlorine... thoughts?

I do not think it will be a one time dose. I'm assuming that I would have to dose the chlorine 2-3 times maybe over a 2 week period.
 

Paullawr

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So with some help from @Humblefish it appears that chlorine over .21ppm could cause some negative effects on the fish. 1 tab would generate
.02ppm in my 50 gallon system. Question is would .21ppm have any effects on dinos. I am going to dose .1ppm (5 tabs) and see what happens. I would have to dose all at once so the level of chlorine is exactly .1 ppm. If I dose slowly the chlorine would have time to break down and probally wouldn't be as effective.

I also have Metro which I'm not sure if I should run first or run after the chlorine... thoughts?

I do not think it will be a one time dose. I'm assuming that I would have to dose the chlorine 2-3 times maybe over a 2 week period.
If you have some digital scales could you crush a tab and separate 1/10 (whatever 1/10 weight is) and add to 5 gallon test sample in say bucket with heater (if cold). Would need light source as well.

I'm just thinking that it would give a test bed to see it's effects.

Metro dosing i would off of until a test is done. If it proves successful then metro dose towards end of treatment.
 

RMS18

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If you have some digital scales could you crush a tab and separate 1/10 (whatever 1/10 weight is) and add to 5 gallon test sample in say bucket with heater (if cold). Would need light source as well.

I'm just thinking that it would give a test bed to see it's effects.

Metro dosing i would off of until a test is done. If it proves successful then metro dose towards end of treatment.
Hmm I do not have another led light I can use... think a regular 2 dollar bulb from homedepo would work like what some use on their sumps?
 

mcarroll

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Thanks for taking the time to post that!! :)

Have you seen Table 1 from this article?
Programmed cell death in protists

Haven't posted that one to my blog (yet – it's goin' up!) but here's a few key excerpts from the table:

Table 1.

Apoptotic markers in unicellular organisms


Organism | Conditions/inducer | Apoptotic markers
Symbiodinium spp. | Heat stress [15] | Chromatin condensation; intact plasma membrane; vacuolization and vesicle formation; cytoplasmic condensation [15]
Peridinium gatunense | Decrease of dissolved CO2; H2O2[16] | DNA fragmentation, cell shrinkage; increase in reactive oxygen species; late plasma membrane permeabilization [16]
Amphidinium carterae | Darkness/light-deprivation [17] | Cell shrinkage; vacuolization [17]


Interesting to see why some of our treatments may be working.

I don't recall anyone trying systematic CO2 reduction, though I think I remember it coming up as a hypothesis or suspected solution at some point....that coulda been in the context of another thread about cyano, etc tho.

Worth looking at that CO2/H2o2 reference for sure.

Looks like the darkness treatment is probably related to Amphidinium blooms.

Anyway, it's a big table, so there might be more items of interest. :)

Was thinking about this from the perspective of what we know about Symbiodinium and heat stress.

A linked article from the Stress section of my blog...
Limited phosphorus availability is the Achilles heel of tropical reef corals in a warming ocean

Even if you just read the quotes on my post, you see that the heat alone does not spell doom for them. It's a set of circumstances while under heat stress. (BTW, that's an amazing article from soup to nuts IMO.)

So, reducing CO2 by kalk dosing or light-deprivation treatments are almost surely not enough by themselves either.

Has anyone read citation #16 or #17 for the pest dino's yet to see what they found?

It's a very interesting coincidence that phosphorous-limitation – not over-saturation – is the lynch-pin for dino infestations, cyano infestations, as well coral bleaching.

(Corals seeming to be little more than a concentrated, semi-controlled dino/cyano infestation.) :cool:
 

mandrieu

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Was thinking about this from the perspective of what we know about Symbiodinium and heat stress.

A linked article from the Stress section of my blog...
Limited phosphorus availability is the Achilles heel of tropical reef corals in a warming ocean

Even if you just read the quotes on my post, you see that the heat alone does not spell doom for them. It's a set of circumstances while under heat stress. (BTW, that's an amazing article from soup to nuts IMO.)

So, reducing CO2 by kalk dosing or light-deprivation treatments are almost surely not enough by themselves either.

Has anyone read citation #16 or #17 for the pest dino's yet to see what they found?

It's a very interesting coincidence that phosphorous-limitation – not over-saturation – is the lynch-pin for dino infestations, cyano infestations, as well coral bleaching.

(Corals seeming to be little more than a concentrated, semi-controlled dino/cyano infestation.) :cool:
o_O
 

mcarroll

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From a quick glance that I can take, #16 (the links in the table are clickable) indicates you may have to get up as high as pH 9 to assert the needed level of CO2 limitation.

#17 was a dead-end citation, but it turns up on Google Scholar....hosted over at NIH:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1691843/pdf/15475328.pdf

I couldn't glean any tidbits just this quick, but they do address the subject and provide more references......I'll finish reading when I get another chance. :)
 

RMS18

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.12ppm of chlorine has been added. I placed the tabs in my overflow. Carbon and skimmer are shut off.
Prime is on standby.
Seneye is on and monitoring ammonia.
 

RMS18

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1 hour update. Corals reacted within under a minute after adding the tabs. They dissolved extremely quick. Fish show no signs of stress so far. Tank smells a bit like chlorine.
Ammonia before the tabs was .003 now it's reading .007.
 

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