justreefin
Active Member
Can someone tell me if this is dino? I'm on my 6th day of dosing 15 mil in my 150gal tank and see no result. I've actually left off the lights today to see if it will help. Is this stuff dino?
Dinoflagellates my experience......h2o2 reefing tool!!!!!
OK time for a second approach 
On Sunday evening I wrapped my aquarium with large thick bin bags so its completely isolated from any light sources.
The tank is 50g + 18g sump. I have a lot of live rock so I dose 4ml of hydrogen pyroxide every 24hrs. And I drip kalk with my auto top off to raise pH.
Today is day 2.
I'll keep you updated.
On Sunday evening I wrapped my aquarium with large thick bin bags so its completely isolated from any light sources.The tank is 50g + 18g sump. I have a lot of live rock so I dose 4ml of hydrogen pyroxide every 24hrs. And I drip kalk with my auto top off to raise pH.
Today is day 2.
I'll keep you updated.
Last edited:
saifbham
New Member
[h=3]Hello all,
I posted this in the reef tank forum a while ago. I thought this information may be helpful to people here. ]
Long term hydrogen peroxide dosing in a Reef tank[/h]
Hydrogen peroxide treatment has received attention as a means of algae control in recent years. However there is little information about long term effects of continued dosing on tank life.
Here I would like to share and discuss observations regarding the following:
1. Long term effects of continued hydrogen peroxide dosing.
2. Direct application on corals out of water.
I have been using a 30% H2O2 solution (rather than a more commonly used 3% solution) to regularly dose my tank for the past 3 months. I have also been using this solution undiluted, to treat corals out of water. The tank setup, treatment dosages and methods and effects observed are as follows.
Firstly the environment:
Tank system: Total water volume: 150L (true water volume, ie excluding hardscape, equipment). 80L in display tank, 70L in sump.
Filtration: Live rock, phosphate reactor (media phosban), Deltec MC500.
Water parameters: typical measurements using hobbyist test kits.
pH: 8.1-8.2
Alkalinity:3.0-3.5 mEq/L
Nitrates, phosphates: nil
Calcium: 400-450 ppm
specific gravity: 1.025
Temperature:25oC
Salt: Tropic Marin Pro Reef
Tank age: 6 Months
Maintenance: 15L water change weekly, evaporation top up and alkalinity supplementation using R.O.D.I. water with Seachem reef buffer.
Corals:
Soft corals and corallimorphs: Zoanthids (various), Mushrooms (Actinodiscus sp., Discosoma sp.,Rhodactis sp.), Ricordea florida, Ricordea yuma.
LPS: Blastomussa merletti, Blastomussa wellsi, Acanthastrea lordhowensis, Trachyphyllia geoffroyi, Euphyllia glabrescens
SPS: Montipora digitata
Livestock: Royal Gramma, Firefish, Astraea snails, Narcissus snails, Cerith snails, Hermit crab (Clibanarius sp.), (Chaetomorpha in sump.)
Other live organisms: copepods (abundant), scypha sponges, vermetid snails,
brittle stars, Red and purple coralline algae.
Algae: All in very minute amounts, not noticeable, Bryopsis, bubble algae(specific type: Valonia aegagropila), Caulerpa sp.
Water column dosing:
0.5ml 30% H2O2 solution in 150L of water (this is equivalent of 1.25ml of 3% H2O2 per 10 US gal of water) either daily or once every two days. Dosing started about 3 months ago and has been continued in this manner without any significant interruptions. Either added indiscriminately to the water column or spot treated an algae infested area. On occasion, twice the stated dose has been added when spot treating areas.
Observations:
The fish do not show any response at all. Snails and hermit crabs are similar.
Most zoanthids close immediately upon dosing everytime. They open again within 1 to 2 minutes afterwards. Dinoflagellates were a problem prior to start of dosing.
Bryopsis do not seem to be affected even upon spot treatment with 30% solution, all flow is turned off prior to treating and H202 solution is allowed to gently fall upon the area. Localised bubbling is seen.
Bubble algae do seem to be affected negatively, sometimes repeated doses have been given to the area. However effects are hard to judge as most of the time remove the bladders and spot treat the area immediately. But on occasion I have seen disappearance of bladders after treatment without removal.
Dinoflagellates: Spot treatment is very affective in sterilization of the area.
Coralline algae: Spot treatment also completely destroys all coralline algae in the treated area, however algae surrounding the treated areas and elsewhere in the tank continue to grow.
Corals that have been directly been "spot-treated" are listed below:
Actinodiscus sp., Discosoma sp., Acanthastrea lordhowensis, Blastomussa merletti, Blastomussal Wellsi, Trachyphyllia geoffroyi, Ricordea florida, Zoanthids.
All corals appear to return to normal within 24 hours of being treated. All LPS stated show a minimal response and appear to return to normal within minutes.
No other effects seen on any other live organism.
Treatments of corals exposed to air:
The coral (and live rock to which the coral is attached) is lifted out of the tank and placed on dry tissue paper. 30% H2O2 solution is added dropwise to the affected area. Vigorous bubbling is observed and is allowed to continue for 20-30 seconds before the specimen is restored to water again.
Corals that have directly been exposed to h2O2 solution this way include: Blastomussa Merletti, blastomussa Wellsi, all mushrooms listed, Zoanthids.
The mushrooms "shrink" after treatment while the LPS and Zoanthids close. However they return to normal within 24 hours of being treated.
Algae: This method does seem to kill Bryposis, however sometimes I do repeat this process again before it is completely affective. I remove byropsis using a toothbrush and/or forceps before treating the area. Prior to H2O2 treatment, manual removal would result in regrowth from the same area but H2O2 treatment usually successfully sterilizes the area after the first treatment.
This method needless to say is very successful for Valonia.
Other comments:
I started the chronic H2O2 dosing regimen to eradicate a minor dinoflagellate problem that had stated. I have found this to be very well tolerated by the tank inhabitants. I have since extended this to "spot treatments" and direct application out of water. Please note that I am using a laboratory grade 30% H2O2 solution for all treatments.
Coralline algae does not seem to be negatively affected (except on the locally treated area). I have performed a scratch test where I have using a blade completely or partially removed the coralline algae growing on tank glass.
These areas were not "spot treated" but only the water column was dosed with H2O2 regularly as stated above. The partially "scratched" coralline algae grew during treatment. Areas which were completely cleared of coralline algae (as based on my vision) were seen to house new colonies.
Copepod population is not noticeably different since prior to starting treatment. Copepods are easily visible on tank glass and I use these numbers as an indicator of the tank population.
Chaetomorpha does not seem to be adversely affected by this long term water column dosing.
Corals appear to be very healthy and are growing: new polyps on Blastomussa (both species), Acanthastrea lordhowensis, Euphyllia glabrescens and ofcourse the mushrooms and zoanthids. Montipora digitata is increasing in size.
The 30% H2O2 solution is fairly strong and can be corrosive to human skin. However surprisingly, direct contact of the undiluted solution with corals (as stated above) did not appear to cause any damage at all. Localised treatment under water causes a less pronounced response. Aiptasia's appear to not be negatively affected by either treatment under water or upon direct application emeresed.
All of the above are my observations conducted over a 3 month period. All inhabitants have been housed in this system since the start of water column dosing three months ago, with the exception of Trachyphyllia geoffroyi (which has been in this system for over a month).
The reason for "spot treating" corals such as Trachyphyllia geoffroyi and Acanthastrea lordhowensis was not to eliminate any algae. I treated them after moving them to a different location, on sites on the coral which I suspected I may have damaged due to the move. I must admit this was also partially curiosity driven.
I hope these observations help answer some safety issues of long term water column dosing as well inform about about tolerance of corals to direct application either in an immersed or emmersed state.
Many thanks for reading,
Saif Bham
I posted this in the reef tank forum a while ago. I thought this information may be helpful to people here. ]
Long term hydrogen peroxide dosing in a Reef tank[/h]
Hydrogen peroxide treatment has received attention as a means of algae control in recent years. However there is little information about long term effects of continued dosing on tank life.
Here I would like to share and discuss observations regarding the following:
1. Long term effects of continued hydrogen peroxide dosing.
2. Direct application on corals out of water.
I have been using a 30% H2O2 solution (rather than a more commonly used 3% solution) to regularly dose my tank for the past 3 months. I have also been using this solution undiluted, to treat corals out of water. The tank setup, treatment dosages and methods and effects observed are as follows.
Firstly the environment:
Tank system: Total water volume: 150L (true water volume, ie excluding hardscape, equipment). 80L in display tank, 70L in sump.
Filtration: Live rock, phosphate reactor (media phosban), Deltec MC500.
Water parameters: typical measurements using hobbyist test kits.
pH: 8.1-8.2
Alkalinity:3.0-3.5 mEq/L
Nitrates, phosphates: nil
Calcium: 400-450 ppm
specific gravity: 1.025
Temperature:25oC
Salt: Tropic Marin Pro Reef
Tank age: 6 Months
Maintenance: 15L water change weekly, evaporation top up and alkalinity supplementation using R.O.D.I. water with Seachem reef buffer.
Corals:
Soft corals and corallimorphs: Zoanthids (various), Mushrooms (Actinodiscus sp., Discosoma sp.,Rhodactis sp.), Ricordea florida, Ricordea yuma.
LPS: Blastomussa merletti, Blastomussa wellsi, Acanthastrea lordhowensis, Trachyphyllia geoffroyi, Euphyllia glabrescens
SPS: Montipora digitata
Livestock: Royal Gramma, Firefish, Astraea snails, Narcissus snails, Cerith snails, Hermit crab (Clibanarius sp.), (Chaetomorpha in sump.)
Other live organisms: copepods (abundant), scypha sponges, vermetid snails,
brittle stars, Red and purple coralline algae.
Algae: All in very minute amounts, not noticeable, Bryopsis, bubble algae(specific type: Valonia aegagropila), Caulerpa sp.
Water column dosing:
0.5ml 30% H2O2 solution in 150L of water (this is equivalent of 1.25ml of 3% H2O2 per 10 US gal of water) either daily or once every two days. Dosing started about 3 months ago and has been continued in this manner without any significant interruptions. Either added indiscriminately to the water column or spot treated an algae infested area. On occasion, twice the stated dose has been added when spot treating areas.
Observations:
The fish do not show any response at all. Snails and hermit crabs are similar.
Most zoanthids close immediately upon dosing everytime. They open again within 1 to 2 minutes afterwards. Dinoflagellates were a problem prior to start of dosing.
Bryopsis do not seem to be affected even upon spot treatment with 30% solution, all flow is turned off prior to treating and H202 solution is allowed to gently fall upon the area. Localised bubbling is seen.
Bubble algae do seem to be affected negatively, sometimes repeated doses have been given to the area. However effects are hard to judge as most of the time remove the bladders and spot treat the area immediately. But on occasion I have seen disappearance of bladders after treatment without removal.
Dinoflagellates: Spot treatment is very affective in sterilization of the area.
Coralline algae: Spot treatment also completely destroys all coralline algae in the treated area, however algae surrounding the treated areas and elsewhere in the tank continue to grow.
Corals that have been directly been "spot-treated" are listed below:
Actinodiscus sp., Discosoma sp., Acanthastrea lordhowensis, Blastomussa merletti, Blastomussal Wellsi, Trachyphyllia geoffroyi, Ricordea florida, Zoanthids.
All corals appear to return to normal within 24 hours of being treated. All LPS stated show a minimal response and appear to return to normal within minutes.
No other effects seen on any other live organism.
Treatments of corals exposed to air:
The coral (and live rock to which the coral is attached) is lifted out of the tank and placed on dry tissue paper. 30% H2O2 solution is added dropwise to the affected area. Vigorous bubbling is observed and is allowed to continue for 20-30 seconds before the specimen is restored to water again.
Corals that have directly been exposed to h2O2 solution this way include: Blastomussa Merletti, blastomussa Wellsi, all mushrooms listed, Zoanthids.
The mushrooms "shrink" after treatment while the LPS and Zoanthids close. However they return to normal within 24 hours of being treated.
Algae: This method does seem to kill Bryposis, however sometimes I do repeat this process again before it is completely affective. I remove byropsis using a toothbrush and/or forceps before treating the area. Prior to H2O2 treatment, manual removal would result in regrowth from the same area but H2O2 treatment usually successfully sterilizes the area after the first treatment.
This method needless to say is very successful for Valonia.
Other comments:
I started the chronic H2O2 dosing regimen to eradicate a minor dinoflagellate problem that had stated. I have found this to be very well tolerated by the tank inhabitants. I have since extended this to "spot treatments" and direct application out of water. Please note that I am using a laboratory grade 30% H2O2 solution for all treatments.
Coralline algae does not seem to be negatively affected (except on the locally treated area). I have performed a scratch test where I have using a blade completely or partially removed the coralline algae growing on tank glass.
These areas were not "spot treated" but only the water column was dosed with H2O2 regularly as stated above. The partially "scratched" coralline algae grew during treatment. Areas which were completely cleared of coralline algae (as based on my vision) were seen to house new colonies.
Copepod population is not noticeably different since prior to starting treatment. Copepods are easily visible on tank glass and I use these numbers as an indicator of the tank population.
Chaetomorpha does not seem to be adversely affected by this long term water column dosing.
Corals appear to be very healthy and are growing: new polyps on Blastomussa (both species), Acanthastrea lordhowensis, Euphyllia glabrescens and ofcourse the mushrooms and zoanthids. Montipora digitata is increasing in size.
The 30% H2O2 solution is fairly strong and can be corrosive to human skin. However surprisingly, direct contact of the undiluted solution with corals (as stated above) did not appear to cause any damage at all. Localised treatment under water causes a less pronounced response. Aiptasia's appear to not be negatively affected by either treatment under water or upon direct application emeresed.
All of the above are my observations conducted over a 3 month period. All inhabitants have been housed in this system since the start of water column dosing three months ago, with the exception of Trachyphyllia geoffroyi (which has been in this system for over a month).
The reason for "spot treating" corals such as Trachyphyllia geoffroyi and Acanthastrea lordhowensis was not to eliminate any algae. I treated them after moving them to a different location, on sites on the coral which I suspected I may have damaged due to the move. I must admit this was also partially curiosity driven.
I hope these observations help answer some safety issues of long term water column dosing as well inform about about tolerance of corals to direct application either in an immersed or emmersed state.
Many thanks for reading,
Saif Bham
OP
OP
Troylee
all about the diy!!!!!
Great info there^^^^^ thanks for sharing.... And 49 link backs!!!!! Wow who would ever thought this thread would grow to what it is today haha...:tongue:
I am totally psyched to add some peroxide to my tank tonight I recently had a dino flareup in my sps dominated tank, about 1.5 yrs old. My vortech modes had gotten screwed up and I think one was running in powersave mode for months. I switched to NTM and everything got stirred up, I pulled out some feral caulerpa, and after that the dinoflagellates appeared and started trailing off my sps and bubbling off every surface in the tank.
I'd heard about using peroxide with great success for cyano in freshwater systems from a good friend of mine (farmertodd...for all you ancient reefers), but never had the nerve to dose it in a reef tank. Hope it works as well for me as it has for others!
Thanks Troylee!
Tim
I recently had a dino flareup in my sps dominated tank, about 1.5 yrs old. My vortech modes had gotten screwed up and I think one was running in powersave mode for months. I switched to NTM and everything got stirred up, I pulled out some feral caulerpa, and after that the dinoflagellates appeared and started trailing off my sps and bubbling off every surface in the tank.I'd heard about using peroxide with great success for cyano in freshwater systems from a good friend of mine (farmertodd...for all you ancient reefers), but never had the nerve to dose it in a reef tank. Hope it works as well for me as it has for others!
Thanks Troylee!
Tim
Hi all,
I have a 90 gallon bow reef tank that I purchased established about 2 months ago. It is my second tank since selling my first 125 gallon tank when we moved 2 years ago.
This tank is full of nice healthy corals, and I probably have a few too many fish.
About a month ago it all started. To make a long story short, I am now 98% certain I have a problem with dinos - not exactly a great "club" to join, but here I am.
I have googled, researched, and read for the past week or so everything I could find. I just found this string today, and after reading through the entire thread, I am ready to announce my problem, and hopefully be able to update successful treatment like so many.
I have determined that my outbreak must still be in the early stages, as I have no where near the problem that I read about in other's posts, nor see in some pics. I don't have it in the sand bed unless I "wave" some of it off of the corals. It presents itself as strings - some even come out of the Koralias. I have some pretty good flow in there, so perhaps the bubbles are blasted out of the strings. Just a guess. There are plenty of other areas, however, that look like pics of strings with bubbles within them. Not exactly a big layer of "snot" on the sandbed like I had read (I kept trying to talk myself out of dinos for a while due to this, but still other areas that were fairly suspicious. The biggest areas affected were multiple branched corals like a multi-head candy coral, and a birdsnest. I described it like cobwebs within the branches.
I have pics, but have to figure out how to post them here. Hey, I guess I figured it out! Here is a FTS. Now I will get some pics of the dinos.
I will start dosing this weekend, and will update you on how it goes. This pic was a few days ago. As you can see, you can't even see the dinos in a fts, however it is on corals and some rocks.
Just wanted to introduce myself!
Barbara in Texas
PS how do you make the pics bigger as in within the post itself?
Just noticed that the pic I posted was the one from the sale ad. I wish I could have put it back together like that! lol
I will post current pics when I figure out how to make them bigger
I have a 90 gallon bow reef tank that I purchased established about 2 months ago. It is my second tank since selling my first 125 gallon tank when we moved 2 years ago.
This tank is full of nice healthy corals, and I probably have a few too many fish.
About a month ago it all started. To make a long story short, I am now 98% certain I have a problem with dinos - not exactly a great "club" to join, but here I am.
I have googled, researched, and read for the past week or so everything I could find. I just found this string today, and after reading through the entire thread, I am ready to announce my problem, and hopefully be able to update successful treatment like so many.
I have determined that my outbreak must still be in the early stages, as I have no where near the problem that I read about in other's posts, nor see in some pics. I don't have it in the sand bed unless I "wave" some of it off of the corals. It presents itself as strings - some even come out of the Koralias. I have some pretty good flow in there, so perhaps the bubbles are blasted out of the strings. Just a guess. There are plenty of other areas, however, that look like pics of strings with bubbles within them. Not exactly a big layer of "snot" on the sandbed like I had read (I kept trying to talk myself out of dinos for a while due to this
, but still other areas that were fairly suspicious. The biggest areas affected were multiple branched corals like a multi-head candy coral, and a birdsnest. I described it like cobwebs within the branches.I have pics, but have to figure out how to post them here. Hey, I guess I figured it out! Here is a FTS. Now I will get some pics of the dinos.
I will start dosing this weekend, and will update you on how it goes. This pic was a few days ago. As you can see, you can't even see the dinos in a fts, however it is on corals and some rocks.
Just wanted to introduce myself!
Barbara in Texas
PS how do you make the pics bigger as in within the post itself?
Just noticed that the pic I posted was the one from the sale ad. I wish I could have put it back together like that! lol
I will post current pics when I figure out how to make them bigger
Last edited:
They can smother a coral because they grow so fast. They rarely creep, you most likely have something else.
-Logzor
2500 Club Member
Yeah I didn't explain this property. Can dinos cause corals to RTN when they are growing near the base? Not necessarily due to growing over or on the coral tissue.
-Logzor
2500 Club Member
So how safe is it to continually dose H202? I just made my fourth dose in my system, approximately 15mL in 180g of total water volume. Water clarity is spectacular but I don't see a big difference in algae (what might be dinos). Should I increase the dose?
What is this stuff actually doing? How long does it stay present in the system? Just a few minutes?
I am experimenting with this as a possible way to stop a bacteria infection on my acros.
What is this stuff actually doing? How long does it stay present in the system? Just a few minutes?
I am experimenting with this as a possible way to stop a bacteria infection on my acros.
yeldarbj
Active Member
I dosed for about 6 weeks without any problems. Dinos appear to be gone but now I've got what appears to be cyano or diatoms. I even tried double dosing - morning and night - and the tank was fine. My sps didn't have much polyp extension at night when I was dosing.
-Logzor
2500 Club Member
How many mL / gallon were you dosing?
Does this have a similar effect to vinegar / vodka in the way it drops nutrients from the system?
OP
OP
Troylee
all about the diy!!!!!
1 ml per 10 gal... So 18ml for you logzor... As for reducing nutrients no it doesn't... Just seems to attack Dino's "a single cell organism" for some reason or another...Vinegar and vodka are food sources for nitrifying bacteria... Hth
montethemoster
Active Member
I dosed over the counter hydrogen peroxide 1 mL per 10 gallon for 3 weeks with no positive results at all. However, 72 hours of dark did work very well for me to kill all the dinoflagellates.
CHUBAKAH
Community Member
Sorry if this has been mentioned within the 40 pages, but can someone tell me which hydrogen peroxide you are using? There are several grades available at the store?
allabout
Active Member
I am also planning to try this. After fighting a nasty algae outbreak including some cyano (which seems to be under control now) I believe and I've been told by others that I have dino. I started lights out today and also started dosing kalk. Hopefully it's not too much at once, but I'm so tired of fighting it and its going to kill my corals if I don't get rid of it anyway. I'll dose h2o2 today and for the next week or so. I'll report back with pictures hopefully of a beautiful clear tank.
Pictures:
Pictures:
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