Dinoflagellates my experience......h2o2 reefing tool!!!!!

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AcroholicReefer

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This is a huge thread, can we get a summary of recommended dosing and any issues. I have a 375 I may dose.
1mL per 10g of Aquarium water, so if you have 375 TSV then dose 37.5 mL of H2O2 once a day for a minimum of 3 days.

FWIW, I dosed for 3 days and then skipped dosing for 3 days, then dosed again for 3 days.
 
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FaviaFreak

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I gotta admit the water clarity is much better and noticing a lot of PE on my acros dosing 1ml per 10gal

however I notice even at this dose some of my favia get stressed
 

AcroholicReefer

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so what your saying is your dosing H202 and getting better coloration your rainbow monti?
Oh yeah, absolutely. Everything looks much better. I have had some bright pink palys that had remained closed for several months and opened right up.

I gotta admit the water clarity is much better and noticing a lot of PE on my acros dosing 1ml per 10gal

however I notice even at this dose some of my favia get stressed
That didn't happen in my system and I actually had some some fast growth rates with my chalice and favias too since I have dosed. I have noticed that the LPS tentacles have came out more at night than before but they are not stressed at all
 

Lytehouse

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Troy,

Thanks for starting this thread.
Before reading this I had:

Changed bulbs,
Talked to and shown my tank to several locals for ideas,
changed all cartridges in my RO/DI
ran GFO,
siphoned,
greatly increased clean up crew,
run lights out several times.

My tank was still horrible to look at.
Now it is beautiful again, and it only cost a buck for the bottle and some patience.
 

projectx

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Delayed update.......

As it turns out it isnt Dinos I am fighting, but a form of Cyano.

This stuff is bright green, airbubbles under it, and there is some hair algae that is just a difft form of it.

Knew it had to be something other than Dinos as I was the onlyone not having any luck with the dosing.

I am waiting on replacement filters for my RO unit as I think that is the culpret, seems to flare up AFTER a water change. Thanks to all for your help
 

shred5

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I want to add something to caution people. I may have posted this before or a I may have forgot about this but watch your orp. Peroxide can greatly increase your orp just like ozone and nuke your tank.

Dave Polzin
 
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Troylee

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I want to add something to caution people. I may have posted this before or a I may have forgot about this but watch your orp. Peroxide can greatly increase your orp just like ozone and nuke your tank.

Dave Polzin
It does by adding oxygen to the water but falls rapidly also... Shouldn't be a issue if you followed the directions of 1ml per 10gallons of water...
 

jelly

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i have tryed to use peroxide for my 180 with 75 sump and i still get dino. or i think its this dino. its bown and it leaves a film on almost everything. if left untouched it will start to string. if this isnt dino what else could it be? the only way i found to help remove it is to turn my lighs off and i really hate doing that. my ph is about 8.0 to 8.1 and drops at night and i heard ph could play into getting dino. working on making a co2 scubber to help raise the ph.
 
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jelly

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im dosing 1ml for ever 10g. i have 240g total water valume so i dose 24ml and still dont help
 
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Pants

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I started my first saltwater tank in September and was excited when I read people were having issues with dinos. I'm a doctoral student studying Prorocentroid dinoflagellates. From the photos and descriptions I've seen on forums I'm pretty sure the dinos that are giving everyone problems are Group 2 Prorocentroids or several different species. I've been active on a couple other forums and have started sending people with suspected dino blooms tubes and return envelopes so I can ID your algae. So far everything I have had a chance to look at has been cyano or diatoms, but I'm hopeful I'll get some real dinos soon.

If you PM me your address I'll mail off the tubes so you can send me your algae. I'll give you an ID (whether it is a dino or not) and maybe give you some nice pictures too. Diatoms can be pretty under the scope, and dinos look really neat under the electron microscope. If I get a lot of samples I'll put together a website helping people to identify pest algae.

Whether you send me some algae or not I want to encourage everyone to get a microscope. Decent scopes can be had for cheap from your local Universities (they sell student used scopes often) and a jewelers loop can be bought for very cheap. They also make little toy scopes for your phone. Most of these pests can be identified by the novice with a scope (at least to the level of cyano vs diatom vs dino) and its also just another way to enjoy your aquarium.

If you guys have any questions about algae or dinoflagellates in particular I'd be happy to answer.
 

Reefltx

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I'm going through a small outbreak right now. Pants, I'd gladly send you a sample.
 

shred5

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i have tryed to use peroxide for my 180 with 75 sump and i still get dino. or i think its this dino. its bown and it leaves a film on almost everything. if left untouched it will start to string. if this isnt dino what else could it be? the only way i found to help remove it is to turn my lighs off and i really hate doing that. my ph is about 8.0 to 8.1 and drops at night and i heard ph could play into getting dino. working on making a co2 scubber to help raise the ph.
It sounds like dinos but could be diatoms. Diatoms will cover everythng but usually starts in the sand bed, they can also get stringy. They are usually a golden brown where dinos are a light snotty brown.


Cyanobacteria when there are several colors mixed can sometime apear like dino's.


Dave Polzin
 
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