Discussion in 'Reef Aquarium Discussion' started by Troylee, Dec 14, 2010.
Alright so right now before I go to bed what do you recommend I do first
If you want to do an easy spot test nothing is simpler or takes less prep...just lift out that top arch rock out of the tank hold it over a sink and pour peroxide all over it let sit in air two mins
Rinse with a cup of tank water poured over after it cooked two mins in the air
Put back in
We gauge that in 48 hours I bet it's clean. If so, do the rest, so easy
what about the beneficial Bactria in the rock? and also I have corals encrusted on the rocks
Fair questions for sure, in here is a bunch of tank dosings and in the first two pages we cover bacteria
Dosing your tank with peroxide harms no bacteria, nitrifying or denitrifying. Including overdoses up to one mil per gallon, a 10x overdose. Of course nobody will test that on purpose, but the inadvertent tests of it were post gold.
Not sure if this helps identify it but this is some of it in my hand
Only an aquarium shot would work pm me a whole tank shot if you can
However I don't think it's dinos, reasonably confident there. Calothrix or lyngbya maybe. Practicing botanists chuckle at our (my) feeble ID attempts with general names...standard fix attempts work across species thankfully. One can strip nutrients to try and starve, use plants, grazers, or the chemi burns we track. Our peroxide threads hardly ever name species or ask for po4 levels, not needed usually.
@brandon429 Just wanted to share... I've been using H2O2 for the last 10 days. Corals appear to be ok. Dinoflagellates growing slower, but still there. I was looking at the ORP curve and realized that the decrease in ORP is followed by an Increase about 4hs and 30 mins after dosing.
your rebound spike is super interesting, I wonder if that's after the organics have scrubbed their share.
I haven't really seen a week long comparison of peroxide vs no peroxide ORP before that's great to see above I want to link those to our p thread as they develop.
Okay so I scrubed a good amount of it off the rock with a tooth brush like 2 or 3 days ago and so far it hasn't grown back.. does that seem like dino? Also I did the thing in the thread you shared and nothing grew in the cup. I haven't done a water change in almost a month because I was told that it would feed the algae but that doesn't make sense to me because my rodi unit is reading 0 tds. So should I just do a water change and sift through the sand and see what happens?
I wouldn't go through the sandbed it can be a cycle risk. I like to either clean them thoroughly or leave them alone and the pics don't seem like the invader goes far into the bed. The only method I could reliably offer is the test rock external treatments from the challenge thread.
But what should I do about the sand bed?
I noticed the depths of the bed per the front picture don't look clogged with waste nor clogged with the invader so a light topical cleaning is ok
I would either hand scoop out the layers with the growth and simply rinse them in scaling hot water out of the tank then put back, or siphon remove those areas and rinse and put back. Do as few spots not very deep as it takes to clean it all out we want to be careful here
I think I would second part of that at least.
If there is any doubt about your sand bed, take your finger or something and swizzle it around in the sand in a few strategic locations.
If anything but a cloud of pure white comes up then your sand bed is compromised.
If you should find that to be the case, my recommendation is almost always to take a siphon and/or shop vac and suck the entire sand bed out during a series of water changes.
You typically don't want to remove more than 1/5 or 1/4 at a time so the live rock has at least those 4 or 5 days to assume the sand bed's capacity.
Once you're done removing the old sand bed, replacing it with brand new sand or leave the bare bottom are both fully legitimate options. (Definitely pitch the old sand. New sand is too cheap to mess with cleaning.) Bare bottom can even work with sand dwelling fish, FYI.
Oh, it's also fairly mandatory to figure out what allowed all the detritus into the sand bed and fix that before adding any new sand then if you choose to go that route.
It's usually in adequate flow - sometimes simply having pumps set up wrong. Could be other things too such as rock structure.
I haven't read the whole 43 page thread, but has anyone tested to see if there is a particular time of day that is more advantageous for dosing. Mornings, evenings, etc
As a really rough guess, but tied in by hundreds of dosing examples day vs night where corals were stressed way more often during lighted cycles, a total guess is posed that free radical insulting done on target X by peroxide is amplified where light levels made things worse
If non target corals are strong and adding mass, a daylight dose is harder on the target invaders (And non targets too but they are strong, have reserves)
If non target corals are weak and receding from stress, the tank is better dosed at night so the weakest in the tank have a better chance. There is an interesting tie in daylight amplifying both the good and bad effects of peroxide dosing.
Repost, but that link explains the effect somewhat along with several specific examples.
Link taken, and reposted, that's like nine of them recently from you nice going MC
Thanks brandon and mcarrol. Since my corals are in pretty good shape, growing and all polypy and such, I am going to assume it would be better to dose during the daytime hours of the light cycle to do the maximum damage to the dinos. I caught them early and they are almost gone.
I have dino's and I would like to try this. Anyone tried this on the zeovit system.
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