Dinoflagellates my experience......h2o2 reefing tool!!!!!
Fascinating
Not dinos
That's more than one community of invaders all together, some lyngbya possibly, some GHA and some I cannot name. Having more than one invader expressing isn't uncommon, I'd really like to take on the challenge if nobody else does...see thread called reef2reef pest algae thread in marine plants forum.
For testing/response, take a turkey baster or syringe and inject some peroxide from a brand new unopened bottle slowly and right up next to a dense test patch area w system pumps off, maximizing contact time for the test. Don't do whole tank yet, initially just test for a given area and the typical three day turnaround
If it works we can do your your whole tank one area at a time.
The fact it's bb makes it easier to war against this
Was the topoff water for the last year of life verified as zero tds
Not dinos
That's more than one community of invaders all together, some lyngbya possibly, some GHA and some I cannot name. Having more than one invader expressing isn't uncommon, I'd really like to take on the challenge if nobody else does...see thread called reef2reef pest algae thread in marine plants forum.
For testing/response, take a turkey baster or syringe and inject some peroxide from a brand new unopened bottle slowly and right up next to a dense test patch area w system pumps off, maximizing contact time for the test. Don't do whole tank yet, initially just test for a given area and the typical three day turnaround
If it works we can do your your whole tank one area at a time.
The fact it's bb makes it easier to war against this
Was the topoff water for the last year of life verified as zero tds
acabgd
Active Member
Not for me, trust me...
Will get a bottle tomorrow. How much should I inject? I have a small syringe from a Salifert test that is long but is only 1ml total with a pointy tip. I could use that one?
No, it creeped up a bit up to 12 tds but that was never a problem before, actually that's the point (12-15 tds) where I used to change the filters. The tank is over 3 years old. This stuff started appearing this summer, slowly at first, but within the last month started growing in catastrophic proportions. Already lost several SPS due to this plague, it suffocates corals, gets in pumps and I almost got a flood when a large patch blocked my overflow.
agreed that's a big challenge
it's such a good critcal detail you have no clogged sandbed (or if you had one, it was kept atypically clean)
I think we can do well with it, we can win back ground using peroxide. If you will also do one external application we need a side comparison (remove any challenge rock, pour peroxide right on it, be crafty to work around the corals although most are resistant, let rock sit in air two mins cooking then rinse and put back, don't remove algae by hand we need to see its death phase compared to in tank needle kills where it was diluted)
it's such a good critcal detail you have no clogged sandbed (or if you had one, it was kept atypically clean)
I think we can do well with it, we can win back ground using peroxide. If you will also do one external application we need a side comparison (remove any challenge rock, pour peroxide right on it, be crafty to work around the corals although most are resistant, let rock sit in air two mins cooking then rinse and put back, don't remove algae by hand we need to see its death phase compared to in tank needle kills where it was diluted)
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acabgd
Active Member
As I have a cleaner shrimp in my tank (1% survival with H2O2), I decided to try first with Cuprisorb. Put it in high area flow of my sump on Thursday. Will report after a week with results and photos.
flamehawk1613
New Member
I have been battling an algae outbreak for about a month , most of mine was on the sand bed . so after reading all these post I decided to make a device that would allow me to deliver the peroxide right to the sand bed . I have 230 gallons so I took 23ml of peroxide and mixed it in one gallon of RODI water . I used a small powerhead and tubing that led to my coral feeder (a wand with a real small hole). I have done this for two days now and today I have very little if any algae on the sand . when I say algae I am not sure its algae it very well could have been a bacteria , I never put it under a microscope.
acabgd
Active Member
It doesn't imply copper, but rather some unknown factor included in Cuprisorb. And not directly algae, rather dinos coupled with bacteria and some algae.
As I've said above, I have a cleaner shrimp and use of H2O2 is out of the question for me, so I had to try something else.
There is a thread about fighting dinos with Cuprisorb titled "Cuprisorb for dinoflagellets??" on that other big site/forum. Quote from that thread:
We'll see if it works...
acabgd
Active Member
Well, I'll be doing a complete restart with new LR. The tank will be empty for a few days, filled only with tap water and vinegar. All the equipment will also be washed, rinsed with vinegar and cleaned. There seems to be no other way.
Actually, I'm quite happy to restart. There's some things I'd like to change.
Actually, I'm quite happy to restart. There's some things I'd like to change.
It's beatable, though... No loss of shrimp.
Since we never source frags from places immune to reimport a start over seems temporary until next event.
Curious about trying some of the featured methods in this actual thread in your tank since there's nothing to lose?
Based on the above post, it seems a single shrimp that can easily be housed elsewhere during a run is preventing you from working your whole tank, that must be hard to have to purchase an entirely new reef and then still have to catch him for the move anyway
Since we never source frags from places immune to reimport a start over seems temporary until next event.
Curious about trying some of the featured methods in this actual thread in your tank since there's nothing to lose?
Based on the above post, it seems a single shrimp that can easily be housed elsewhere during a run is preventing you from working your whole tank, that must be hard to have to purchase an entirely new reef and then still have to catch him for the move anyway
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The big reefcentral/chemistry forum dinos thread from DNA was the first time I had ever been shown pics of dinos hitchhiking in on fish slime
The thread is a good reference of pic IDs that's for sure.
That means any fish transferred over to the new tank is a vector (algae too) or new fish brought home from the pet store, a consideration regarding round 2 potential
The thread is a good reference of pic IDs that's for sure.
That means any fish transferred over to the new tank is a vector (algae too) or new fish brought home from the pet store, a consideration regarding round 2 potential
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acabgd
Active Member
But there is something to lose. I've got SPS and LPS coral, fish and the already mentioned shrimp. Not willing to test the resistance of all those for an "experiment" which might work or also not.
Most people agree that dinos are always present (zooxanthellae are also a type of dino) in a reef tank, it's just the environment that becomes very beneficial to them and they take over. This mostly happens in low nutrient tanks with very low to undetectable NO3 and PO4. This was also the case in my tank. Despite feeding heavily I simply could not get any color to show on NO3 tests (Salifert + RedSea).
There are several plausible theories on why dinos take over in such an environment and most have to do with bacteria and its presence, but I don't want to go into that.
Regarding the above quote wherever you pick up your fish you still might transfer some dinos, which doesn't mean that your tank will automatically have a dino bloom as most tanks simply have no favourable conditions for their agressive growth.
Therefore, transferring fish to a new tank is not a vector, introducing anything to any tank is not a vector, rather the only vector is the conditions in the tank.
Connor
Community Member
Hey guys I'm covering my tank for a full 3 days. I'm using kalkwasser now so my ph is 8.4 where before it was 7.9 -8.0. I'm changing out my gfo and putting in a lot of carbon. good plan? My tank is covered with this stuff... I also changed out my rodi filters and 0 tds is coming out.
These are all good steps. I recently went thru this myself. The black out Def helped just make sure it's completely blacked out. Zero light gets in completely eliminate any source of light from display and the cabinet. I did poke a hole in the car board on top just so the tank can breathe. After that it was just alot of manual removal and blowing off rocks with a turkey baster consistantly for about 2 weeks. I also dosed MB7 this entire time can't tell if that contributed but I Def don't have them anymore.
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