Disappointing MH PAR numbers?

[Bpb]

Love it. Par readings without a white bucket are much more reasonable. Question. Should I avoid running the LEDs while the halides are on due to their close proximity. will the additional heat destroy them? The LEDs add about 100 par at all points top to bottom

 

[That Crusso Kid]

Love it. Par readings without a white bucket are much more reasonable. Question. Should I avoid running the LEDs while the halides are on due to their close proximity. will the additional heat destroy them? The LEDs add about 100 par at all points top to bottom

Gee that sure is purty!

I know many people run their LEDs in conjunction with their MH. I cannot speak to the heat when running both with certainty but would imagine it would be a potential problem. My buddy @dantimdad is pretty much an LED expert and can hopefully give some insight.

Oh, did I mention it sure is PURTY! :D

 

[dantimdad]

Love it. Par readings without a white bucket are much more reasonable. Question. Should I avoid running the LEDs while the halides are on due to their close proximity. will the additional heat destroy them? The LEDs add about 100 par at all points top to bottom

As long as there is adequate air flow, I wouldn't worry about it. You can run them at the same time.

The best way to tell is with an IR thermometer and check temp limits with the manufacturer.

 

[topjimmy]

Just replaced my bulbs, two Hamilton blue t5 and a 20k 250 , also added two blueacro half mega pucks. To get light spread to the edges of the tank since the MH is in the center.

Par is now about 500 just under the surface 160-200 on the sand.

 

[That Crusso Kid]

As long as there is adequate air flow, I wouldn't worry about it. You can run them at the same time.

The best way to tell is with an IR thermometer and check temp limits with the manufacturer.

@dantimdad - thanks buddy!

 

[topjimmy]

A few pictures of the new lighting

 

[Bpb]

Gee that sure is purty!

I know many people run their LEDs in conjunction with their MH. I cannot speak to the heat when running both with certainty but would imagine it would be a potential problem. My buddy @dantimdad is pretty much an LED expert and can hopefully give some insight.

Oh, did I mention it sure is PURTY! :D

Thanks for the reply. I agree it is purty. And the best part about it.... the whole setup cost under $100

 

[dantimdad]

Thanks for the reply. I agree it is purty. And the best part about it.... the whole setup cost under $100

Dude! You stink!

LOL!!!

It really is nice.

 

[Knapp870]

Went out looking for reflectors today. Found two but they didn't match for 50 each... Decided to pass.. The hunt is still on

 

[Smarkow]

If this is a well established tank, consider checking your water for yellowing compounds by putting some in a white bucket. Run some carbon and recheck PAR in a few days

 

[Bpb]

Made the switch and par mapped the tank. All estimations were absolutely correct. Top of the rocks averages out between 450-600 par, mid way hangs out in the 300-400 range, and sandbed level is between 250-300 from end to end. There’s a predictable dip under the center brace but otherwise the par numbers are right where I wanted them.

The color of this hamilton 14k is absolutely gorgeous. I’ve missed this color so much. Might even like it more than I liked my radiums years ago but they look so similar.

Going to start out with a 4 hour photoperiod of halides with 10 hours LEDs at 50%. I’ll increase led strength by a hair and halide time by 30 minutes a week until I get to 6 hours and I’ll evaluate from there. Thanks for the help guys.

 

[That Crusso Kid]

Thanks for the reply. I agree it is purty. And the best part about it.... the whole setup cost under $100

Wow! Sweet deal!

 

[Dana Riddle]

The PAR sensor is cosine-corrected, meaning it is good at collecting light from all angles. This is unnatural in an aquarium. A black bucket would give results that are more meaningful.

 

[Bpb]

Wow! Sweet deal!

Now the question is how long do I hold onto my ati sunpower before I let it go

 

[That Crusso Kid]

Now the question is how long do I hold onto my ati sunpower before I let it go

20 minutes... lol

Better yet, good reason to set up another tank!

 

[Bpb]

20 minutes... lol

Better yet, good reason to set up another tank!

I wish. I have a 150 sitting in the garage I’ve been intending to upgrade to when we move but the timeline is so tentative. Could be this year. Could be in 2-3 years. If everything wasn’t doing so well I’d just swap tanks in house but I’ve crashed tanks in the past attempting that.

 

[That Crusso Kid]

I wish. I have a 150 sitting in the garage I’ve been intending to upgrade to when we move but the timeline is so tentative. Could be this year. Could be in 2-3 years. If everything wasn’t doing so well I’d just swap tanks in house but I’ve crashed tanks in the past attempting that.

That's a tough call and I can relate. I've been holding off a bigger set up too because of a few reasons amongst which is future move too. If all goes well, we'll be heading to FL in a little over a year. Fingers crossed for both of us!

 

[Knapp870]

I could throw some pfo perpendicular reflectors inside the current fixture for about $60. Would that be worth it or no? I tested my sbreef Blackbox and my Chinese over the tank as well which were very interesting results. At 100% intensity I could hit the 200-250 par mark on the sand but then end up at around 500 toward the top of the rock work which could be a little high.

 

[Knapp870]

Update. I added some pfo perpendicular reflectors in the fixture and had huge jumps in lux. It was a cheap/easy way to test how much i was losing with the square built in reflectors. Radiums went up 4-7k lux and the hamilton was 3-4k i believe. Alot of this is probably dependent on the angle/bulb positions inside the reflector.

 

[oreo54]

Update. I added some pfo perpendicular reflectors in the fixture and had huge jumps in lux. It was a cheap/easy way to test how much i was losing with the square built in reflectors. Radiums went up 4-7k lux and the hamilton was 3-4k i believe. Alot of this is probably dependent on the angle/bulb positions inside the reflector.

you can guessitimate the PAR increase from these conversion factors..
https://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/2/review

3000Lux increase radium = 59PAR increase..
I'm assuming "blue" is 20000K
Or are you referrring to an increase of 4000-7000Lux?