DIY Calcium Reactor

[Caravanshaka]

I've got 2 tanks, a 190g volume display tank and an 80g volume frag tank that are separate systems. Up to this point, I've done ATI Essentials and then Essentials Pro. I had so many issues when switching to the Pro that I have decided to dump dosing and get a reactor up and running.

Due to the need for 2 reactors, I decided to try and build my own instead of spending $1.5k+ on pre-built ones. I'm starting with parts from an Avast Reactor kit, and modifying them with my own design for the reactor. I thought it would be good to document so other people can do the same thing.

For this purpose, I am going to list the parts for my frag tank build, though I may share pics of both as the display build is just a taller version of the frag tank.

Start with 2 Fluidized reactor DIY kits from Avast Marine @ https://www.avastmarine.com/collections/you-built/products/fluidized-media-reactor-kit
1x MR16 for the main reactor body - $140
1x MR5 for the secondary effluent chamber - $65

Add a pH probe holder if you are going to use a pH probe @ https://www.avastmarine.com/collections/aquarium-supplies/products/probe-holder
1x probe holder - $4

That covers the main bodies. Now you will need plumbing, and a pump. For a pump, I am going with a Varios 2 for both reactors. They are dependable, silent, and adjustable. They are $195, but to me that is worth it!

For my plumbing parts, I used www.pvcfittingsonline.com:
1x - 1/2" Sch 40 PVC Plug - MIPT 450-005 450-005 - $0.50
1x - 3/4" x 1/2" Schedule 40 PVC Reducer Bushing - Spigot x FIPT (438-101) 438-101 - $0.29
4x - 3/4" Sch 40 PVC 90 Elbow Soc 406-007 406-007 - $0.84
1x - 3/4" x 1/2" Schedule 40 90-Degree Side Outlet Elbow Slip x Slip x FPT (414-101) 414-101 - $1.32
2x - 1" x 3/4" Schedule 40 PVC Reducer Bushing - Spigot x Socket (437-131) 437-131 - $0.70
2x - 3/4" Schedule 40 PVC Tee - Socket x Socket x Socket (401-007) 401-007 - $0.52
1x - 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2" Schedule 40 PVC Reducing Tee - Socket x Socket x Socket (401-101) 401-101 - $0.29
1x - 1/2" Sch 40 PVC 90 Elbow Soc 406-005 406-005 - $0.19
1x - 1/2" Schedule 40 PVC Female Adapter - Socket x FIPT (435-005) 435-005 - $0.21
1x - 1/2" Clear Schedule 40 PVC Pipe - 5 ft. - $7.99
1x - 3/4" Furniture Grade PVC Pipe - White - 5ft. - $5.87

I had a few of these on-hand, so I'm not sure what shipping would cost, but the sub-total of this group is $18.72

In addition to the above, you will need some 1/4" push connect fittings for the inputs and outputs. I could a few different packages @ about $8 each on Amazon so I have extra on-hand. Here is what I am using though:

2x - 1/2" FPT x 1/4" push connect socket
2x - 1/2" FPT x 1/4" push connect 90 elbow
1x - 1/4" FPT x 1/4" push connect 90 elbow

The reason for the different sizes are that the Avast lids come pre-drilled with 2x 1/2" FPT holes. The single 1/4" FPT is easier for me to drill and tap into the side of the tube than 1/2" would have been.

You will also need 2x 3/4" uniseals for passing the plumbing through the main tube. They are like $3-4 each, so let's call that $8

At this point we are at about $250 in parts, plus $195 for the pump. That's $450 for 6"x14" main reactor with a 3.5"x14" effluent chamber and a reliable DC controllable pump. I will be duplicating this in a longer tube setup for the display, which adds very little to the cost through Avast.

The last of my parts arrive tomorrow. So I'll get some pics together of what you are working with and how it turns out as it is finished.

 

[tgp4274]

following

 

[Caravanshaka]

The Secondary effluent chamber is the easy one, so let's start with that!

- About 3/4" from one of the ends of the tube, I drilled a 7/16" hole using a step-bit. I then took a 1/4" FPT tap and slowly and carefully tapped that hole. This is the scary part, as acrylic can and will crack if you aren't careful. Take your time drilling and don't put too much pressure on it. a Drill press makes it 10x easier, and allows you to clamp the body into place and just slowly drill the hole. Always tap by hand, and every half turn forward come at least another 1/4 turn back.
- Install a quick-connect fitting here. I used the 90 degree 1/4" FPT x 1/4" elbow. I always use thread seal on anything plumbing that is threaded, not the tape, but the pasty stuff.
- glue the tube to the base (avast has good videos on what to do here). Let this set before you do anything else
- Glue the upper acrylic flange to the tube
- I cut a small piece of 1/2" pvc to the length of the height I wanted to lift the media off the bottom, so about 1" long. I then inserted that PVC piece into the acrylic media plate. It was a snug fit, so didn't bother gluing it. Insert this and the media screen into the bottom of the chamber
- For the lid, I plugged one of the 1/2" holes with a PVC plug, and used the other for another 1/4" quick connect fitting. In this case, a 1/2" FPT x 1/4" 90 elbow. Again, remember to use the thread sealent on these fittings.

Leak test, then fill with media!!

I was anxious and built this before taking pics!

 

[theatrus]

I like the lids on those reactor chambers. My #1 complaint with my age old Koralin is loading it.

 

[Caravanshaka]

Making some progress on the main reactor! Quick tip, never glue your last pvc joint until you have everything fitted and in place. I’ve marked mine on the pipe and fittings, but won’t glue until my replacement pump is in hand tomorrow (usps destroyed the one you see in the pics).

 

[RobW]

Nice job!

 

[Caravanshaka]

What you see here will be the display main reactor (6”x18”) and the frag secondary(3.5”x14”). I wanted to get a couple sizes to get a visual of what they are and how much they hold to determine what to end up with. I am about to order the frag main chamber and the display secondary chamber on Monday now that I know what I have. The pics don’t do them justice, that main reactor is huge!

 

[Caravanshaka]

Nice job!

Thanks, Rob! Means more coming from someone as meticulous as you seem to be based on your stand build!

 

[Caravanshaka]

As for the design, you can probably get a feel from the pics.

- The top lid of the main reactor has a pH probe holder, and the effluent out fitting.
- plumbing at the top starts on a 90 degree fitting that forces the pump to pull water from the very top to re-circulate...helping to alleviate cO2 build up
- the first T fitting after coming out of the reactor body has a quick connect fitting on top for water in. This ensures new water hits the pump and cO2 as quickly as possibly.
- second T fitting drops to 1/2” and has a 2” long clear PVC with another quick connect at the bottom. This is the cO2 in line, and the clear PVC can act as a bubble counter if needed
- the pump circulates the cO2 rich water down to the bottom of the chamber
- the Effluent will leave the top of the main reactor, and go into the bottom of the secondary chamber. This will ultimately be pulled out of the reactor with a peristaltic pump.

 

[Caravanshaka]

Water test on the main reactor went well! Had to change up the plumbing from the pump back to the bottom of the reactor, as I just couldn’t get the bottom hole low enough comfortably to line up perfectly. I may try again on the next one, we’ll see.

 

[Caravanshaka]

Local cider can for size reference:

 

[Caravanshaka]

So I’m all about posting not only the ups, but the downs as well. No point in sugar coating anything, especially in a DIY thread where someone else has the potential to screw up the same thing!

Of course...I bumped into something while handling it and got a 1/2” long crack at the upper uniseal.

Took it apart and am using a spare piece of acrylic to repair the inside. Will sand smooth the area where the uniseal slides through and reinsert the plumbing tomorrow. Shouldn’t have an impact on the reactor at all as long as I can get a good seal there.

Note to others, be careful with uniseals!!! They put a lot of pressure on the area around them, so if you tweak it more than a tad, it’s likely to crack.

Oh, and it’s a good time to mention that you don’t glue the elbow on the inside of the reactor...no telling when you might have to remove that piece of plumbing (sometimes the next day when you do something boneheaded like I did!). If that elbow is only 99% sealed it doesn’t matter....it’s inside the reactor anyways!

 

[Caravanshaka]

Repair successful. Reactor is filled with water as a final test while I am away for Easter activities. With any luck the reactor will be online tonight or tomorrow!

 

[Caravanshaka]

And we are all up and running! Let me know if you want a step-by-step with pictures and instructions, as I can hopefully do that on the second reactor build!


Please excuse the messy install, wanted to get it running and working before trying to pretty it up!

 

[McPuff]

That looks really good! Makes the one I built a couple years ago look really bad. :0)

 

[Caravanshaka]

Took a few more pics on the second build:

Secondary chamber parts all laid out

Drilling 7/16” hole for tapping:

Tapping for fitting

 

[Caravanshaka]

On the main chamber for this one, I was able to successfully drill close enough to the bottom to plumb this thing much cleaner!

Talk about close to the edge!

I added a drain valve on this one as well:

Unfortunately I was missing a part in the kit, so it won’t be done until that comes in!

 

[McPuff]

Good idea to put in a drain.

 

[joseserrano]

very cool.

 

[Caravanshaka]

Frag tank setup all set. Trying something new on here, I’ve got the pH probe inset into the inlet for the pump. My Hope here is to eliminate bubbles on the probe, which is a common problem on calcium reactors. Thoughts on the change?

Man I really like how clean the plumbing is on this one: