DIY Calcium Reactor

[djrice69]

Just an update on my DIY reactor, I used uniseals originally but one developed a slow leak. I took the whole reactor apart and while trying to remove the lower uniseal, the acrylic tube cracked. To remedy, I used a dremel cutting disc to slightly open the surface of the crack on both sides, then filled the crack with the glue supplied in the Avast kit. It worked like a charm!

I also ordered 2 of the curved PVC pieces that were mentioned earlier to reinforce/glue the PVC pipe to the acrylic tube. These worked great and now the reactor is working flawlessly!

For others that are building a reactor, you can make your own curved PVC fittings to reinforce/glue the points where the PVC piping passes through the acrylic:

First, find an appropriately shaped PVC fitting without a curve---I bought mine from Avast so I don't have any suggestions here but a flange or something might work. You'll have to get creative looking through the options at the local hardware store. Next, put a piece of sandpaper on the outside of the acrylic tube (scratchy side facing out), and then drag the fitting along the tube to sand away the fitting until it has a curvature that matches the tube! Glue the now-curved fitting directly to the surface of the tube and you're in business!

I was researching different ways to repair the cracked acrylic tube (after I'd already ordered the curved parts from Avast) when I found this super helpful tip!

Cheers!

I cracked mine too when I tried to remove the bottom it was minor but I also glued it back and always replace the uniseal if you take it apart because it will create leaks

 

[derekh]

I should also mention I used a cheap Jebao DCP-2500 pump to recirculate my reactor. Even turned all the way down, it's more than enough flow.

The only downside to using this pump is that the o-ring that seals the pump body to the pump head leaked straight out of the box. Of course I didn't find out that these pumps were a no-go for external use until I'd already glued up the rest of the reactor and was doing a leak test.

Thankfully the pumps can be made to run leak-free externally by applying a healthy amount of food safe silicone-based plumbing lubricant, sometimes sold as o-ring lube or keg lube, to the o-ring sealing area. Do NOT use a petroleum-based lubricant such as Vaseline as it will break the o-ring down over time.

The silicone-based lubricants are reef safe, but just in case during the reactor's leak test I used hot tap water several times which seemed to get the excess lubricant out of the pump. I didn't find any lubricant residue inside the reactor after the 3rd leak-test with hot water. The first 2 left a little buildup at the top of the reactor.

 

[Dennis Cartier]

What would be optimal, is if Avast had a flange for both inside and outside the acrylic tube. Like part #23, but a convex and concave version that had a flat side opposite the curve side. Then a regular PVC bulkhead could be used rather than the uniseal. This would also help to minimize the chance of the acrylic being too stressed and cracking.

Dennis

 

[Caravanshaka]

I’ve now built their Kalk reactor, so I know how the flanges really work. It looks to me like they are a solid piece of PVC bonded to the tube and then drilled after. It gives enough surface area to simply PVC cement a pipe inside it, eliminating any need for a bulkhead or uniseal. Definitely going this route next time I have to make one!

 

[djrice69]

I’ve now built their Kalk reactor, so I know how the flanges really work. It looks to me like they are a solid piece of PVC bonded to the tube and then drilled after. It gives enough surface area to simply PVC cement a pipe inside it, eliminating any need for a bulkhead or uniseal. Definitely going this route next time I have to make one!

Do you have a picture of it? How much clearance do you get from it?

 

[Daniel@R2R]

Local cider can for size reference:

Awesome!

 

[Caravanshaka]

Do you have a picture of it? How much clearance do you get from it?

Here it is with a 1/2” pvc glued inside:

 

[User]

Those is awesome! @Dubs83 - seen this?

Quick Q- what are you doing for pH sensing and CO2 control? How are the solenoids controlled?

Great work! Can you do a single chamber design? What’s the benefit of running a dual? Just more capacity or is there a water chemistry reason also?

Sorry- don’t know a whole lot about CaRx

 

[Caravanshaka]

for me, I've got a pH probe hooked up to the Apex to monitor pH, and a Carbon Doser electronic cO2 regulator for the cO2 control.

dual mainly adds extra capacity for more efficient use of the cO2. There is also a slight pH increase in the effluent with a second chamber, helping with tanks that have low pH while running a CaRx

 

[User]

for me, I've got a pH probe hooked up to the Apex to monitor pH, and a Carbon Doser electronic cO2 regulator for the cO2 control.

dual mainly adds extra capacity for more efficient use of the cO2. There is also a slight pH increase in the effluent with a second chamber, helping with tanks that have low pH while running a CaRx

How does the apex control CO2? Or does the CO2 controller have its own pH probe?

Sorry I’m not understanding. I thought ph level controlled CO2 solenoid to adjust bubble rate and therefore keep pH low in order to dissolve the calcium?

 

[Caravanshaka]

How does the apex control CO2? Or does the CO2 controller have its own pH probe?

Sorry I’m not understanding. I thought ph level controlled CO2 solenoid to adjust bubble rate and therefore keep pH low in order to dissolve the calcium?

I have the Apex monitoring pH, but the cO2 regulator controlling it. the Apex will turn off the power to cO2 regulator (thus closing the solenoid) at a certain point, but the ideal setup is to have your regular setup to provide a consistent pH without any interference by a pH controller. My Apex hasn't turned off the power to the cO2 regulator in several months, and my pH is locked in at 6.75 with a +/- of .02.

 

[User]

I have the Apex monitoring pH, but the cO2 regulator controlling it. the Apex will turn off the power to cO2 regulator (thus closing the solenoid) at a certain point, but the ideal setup is to have your regular setup to provide a consistent pH without any interference by a pH controller. My Apex hasn't turned off the power to the cO2 regulator in several months, and my pH is locked in at 6.75 with a +/- of .02.

Nice!

I thought there would be a more ‘peak and trough’ ph cycle, more akin to temp, and therefore need to be cycled on and off. The fact you can dial it in so well is very cool

Thanks for the info !

 

[Caravanshaka]

The carbon doser makes it easy to dial in and maintain a certain pH...especially with a peristaltic pump running the effluent like I have.

You can see the daily swings due to the pH of the water coming into the reactor varying during the day...but it’s only a small variation.

 

[SneakyTortuga]

The carbon doser makes it easy to dial in and maintain a certain pH...especially with a peristaltic pump running the effluent like I have.

You can see the daily swings due to the pH of the water coming into the reactor varying during the day...but it’s only a small variation.

any update on how the reactor is holding up?

 

[Caravanshaka]

any update on how the reactor is holding up?

running great still! No leaks, really quiet, steady output, no complaints!

moving it to my 310 tonight!