DIY Radeon clone?

[rushbattle]

Ya know, I believe a lot of times, manufacturers add all sorts of leds to just boost their numbers. They know good and well that, after folks get done playing around, they aren't going to use all of the power.

I mean, rarely do you hear of someone running all channels or even any channels at 100%. Yes, it may increase longevity of the fixture but to me, if you DIY it's a waste. Just use the actual number of bulbs you need to produce the PAR necessary.

That's the thing about DIY though, you can have what you want! I would like something with more power than the 48w pucks from theatrus, but that's what was available for my upcoming builds. I would prefer to be able to mount them higher, running something like 100w. Then the corals receive light from more angles than just straight above with low hanging sources. I got around that by just using T5, but in the future I may go all LED and do higher power and higher mounted pucks that I make myself.

 

[rushbattle]

My god what is this for? Signaling aliens?

#postoftheday

 

[CwStrife]

I've also been looking for a convenient puck design as well. right now i've been stuck usin

That's the thing about DIY though, you can have what you want! I would like something with more power than the 48w pucks from theatrus, but that's what was available for my upcoming builds. I would prefer to be able to mount them higher, running something like 100w. Then the corals receive light from more angles than just straight above with low hanging sources. I got around that by just using T5, but in the future I may go all LED and do higher power and higher mounted pucks that I make myself.

I've also battled with this. I've opted to use LedZeal for the last 3-4 years and have it custom built in china than sent over to me. Where else can you light a 4' tank for under $400 with ramping,timer,wifi,android,ios? :-D

 

[theatrus]

That's the thing about DIY though, you can have what you want! I would like something with more power than the 48w pucks from theatrus, but that's what was available for my upcoming builds. I would prefer to be able to mount them higher, running something like 100w. Then the corals receive light from more angles than just straight above with low hanging sources. I got around that by just using T5, but in the future I may go all LED and do higher power and higher mounted pucks that I make myself.

All comes down to how much reflector one can pack into a build - density and heat is the big limit :)

 

[rushbattle]

All comes down to how much reflector one can pack into a build - density and heat is the big limit :)

That's why I let an expert design my pucks ;)

 

[User1]

Anyone have any suggestions for a product that I can place on or between a heat sink and circuit board / driver to prevent any exposed wires from shorting? I have a couple drivers that I want to mount to the heat sink but there are some solider points on the bottom and if I secured it as is it will short out.

I know there is a thin pad, paper, or film that does it but no idea what it is called. I've done a few searches but it seems my returns are just cpu to fan/heat sink square. I need to be able to cut to size or at least fit it on a 2" square. Thanks for any tips.

Edit: Disregard :) I had to refine the search. I finally found something that I believe is correct - heatsink cooling thermal conductive silicone pad in .5mm thickness.

 

[Ariel V Rosa]

Anyone have any suggestions for a product that I can place on or between a heat sink and circuit board / driver to prevent any exposed wires from shorting? I have a couple drivers that I want to mount to the heat sink but there are some solider points on the bottom and if I secured it as is it will short out.

I know there is a thin pad, paper, or film that does it but no idea what it is called. I've done a few searches but it seems my returns are just cpu to fan/heat sink square. I need to be able to cut to size or at least fit it on a 2" square. Thanks for any tips.

Edit: Disregard :) I had to refine the search. I finally found something that I believe is correct - heatsink cooling thermal conductive silicone pad in .5mm thickness.

Kapton tape

 

[theatrus]

Kapton tape

Was just going to recommend this. Kapton/polyimide tape, or if you want something thicker, kapton film held on by kapton tape (since most tape is only 1mil)

 

[User1]

All comes down to how much reflector one can pack into a build - density and heat is the big limit :)

This is very true. For the record the image below is from Fluence and their vypr line. This is what I'm sort of replicating using the 48W pro's of yours. My 2" x 50" heat sinks came in yesterday and the fans are arriving later today. I have to go back and re-read what the spread is with your chips using the reflector but I'll be mounting 4 chips on each bar along with 4 of your IQ drivers. Add the two fans and that fancy new PWM converter of yours should provide a solid, repeatable to build, light bar. If it works like I planned I'll then move the existing 4 stars I have and replicate it. If I need more light then I'll just add a third bar with either 2 or 4 stars.

I prefer a bar of lighting rather than the single chip. I think it is just easier to install and has a wider distribution of light. I don't know.

 

[User1]

Thanks both on the kapton tape!

Edit: Well, I wasted a bit of money by not waiting for a reply. Sorry - this is what I ended up with. I should probably return it then. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BQN1V4J/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Ariel V Rosa]

Was just going to recommend this. Kapton/polyimide tape, or if you want something thicker, kapton film held on by kapton tape (since most tape is only 1mil)

You can stack capton tape when used as an electeical isolator, very common to see.

As for the O.P. original use it seems like you need something that will also conduct heat away and isolate electrical wires. You can apply kapton tape to the electrical poibts you want ti protect then put thermal padding on top of that. As far as thermal pad thickness, the right method to pick out the proper thickness is to see the gap you have to fill, then add the distance from the lowest peak composnet and the highest peak component you want cooled. So you would use kapton to cover the electeical points and a thermal pad over the entire area you want heat wicked out of.

If you head over to the eevvlog forums you will find tons of information on what isolators, insulators, and thermal conductors to use and combine.

 

[theatrus]

This is very true. For the record the image below is from Fluence and their vypr line. This is what I'm sort of replicating using the 48W pro's of yours. My 2" x 50" heat sinks came in yesterday and the fans are arriving later today. I have to go back and re-read what the spread is with your chips using the reflector but I'll be mounting 4 chips on each bar along with 4 of your IQ drivers. Add the two fans and that fancy new PWM converter of yours should provide a solid, repeatable to build, light bar. If it works like I planned I'll then move the existing 4 stars I have and replicate it. If I need more light then I'll just add a third bar with either 2 or 4 stars.

I prefer a bar of lighting rather than the single chip. I think it is just easier to install and has a wider distribution of light. I don't know.

Note the drivers should only be exposing GND to the heat sink. The LEDs are fully isolated. The APEX PWM converter has the knarly RJ45 pins though - perhaps just use some small standoffs?

 

[User1]

Note the drivers should only be exposing GND to the heat sink. The LEDs are fully isolated. The APEX PWM converter has the knarly RJ45 pins though - perhaps just use some small standoffs?

Right - the LED's are fine. It was the IQ and PWM converter. The RJ45's are knarly like you said and that is what I wanted to prevent from shorting out.

The driver backside is smooth but it looked like it had exposed, albeit tiny, copper or board that could cause a problem. So I was thinking for both converter and the driver to put a piece of thermal pad or the tape for it to rest on then secure to the heat sink.

 

[User1]

You can stack capton tape when used as an electeical isolator, very common to see.

As for the O.P. original use it seems like you need something that will also conduct heat away and isolate electrical wires. You can apply kapton tape to the electrical poibts you want ti protect then put thermal padding on top of that. As far as thermal pad thickness, the right method to pick out the proper thickness is to see the gap you have to fill, then add the distance from the lowest peak composnet and the highest peak component you want cooled. So you would use kapton to cover the electeical points and a thermal pad over the entire area you want heat wicked out of.

If you head over to the eevvlog forums you will find tons of information on what isolators, insulators, and thermal conductors to use and combine.

Thanks - never saw the EEVblog forums before. Added to bookmarks.

 

[rushbattle]

Thanks - never saw the EEVblog forums before. Added to bookmarks.

Check out his videos. Craziest Aussie accent.

 

[Ariel V Rosa]

Thanks - never saw the EEVblog forums before. Added to bookmarks.

His youtube channek is even better.

 

[rushbattle]

His youtube channek is even better.

LOL, so informative and hilarious.

 

[Metasyntactic]

In case anyone is interested and would rather a push connector to direct soldering to the board, the connectors used on the round 5 channel ebay puck are WAGO 2060-451 connectors. Took a bit of googling but I finally found them. I didn't want to have my pucks soldered together.

 

[dantimdad]

Gotta love Wagos

I have several types now.

 

[User1]

Odd enough name, would have never even remotely tried to google that.

But since we are talking connectors any good recommendations say for connecting 4 fans together to a single plug that is maybe quick release? Or just good quick release for our DIY LED's. Say if I want to remove the bar - something quick would be ideal.

Edit: Maybe I should go to that book mark, eh? I was hoping to get to that today but alas I didn't (Christmas cookie making night).