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DIY Stand Question - Woodworking/structure Expert help needed first time 125g

kris2for

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After much thought I've decided to make my own stand to fit a sump and replace particle board store stand. To get wife approval for living room it needs to look clean and match her furniture. So first time project may be a bit challenging and I had questions for you experts.

What saw can I buy to tackle project? Was thinking circular saw

Can I use 2x6's for the top base instead of plywood so it can match furniture top like in picture?

Any pointers on how tall to make it.





Here are pictures on how I need to match and blueprint im going off

standblueprint.png cent1.jpg cent2.jpg cent3.jpg
 
https://www.omegasea.net/

JBKReef

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While this design looks promising I would refer to the "Rocket Stand" for any DIY stand creation.

You can get by with a circular saw but it would be much easier with a miter saw. (I made my most recent stand with just a circular saw but it was extremely tedious to make exact cuts, to which a miter saw and stop block could have saved me hours.)
 

Reefer of Oz

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As a carpenter and cabinet builder I would say you are off to a good start. I like the style of the cabinet you are trying to match.

A circular saw will be a definite asset and should be able to perform every thing you will need. A rip fence attachment for it will be helpful for making any long cuts. Alternatively you can clamp down a level or some other type of straight edge to use as a guide.

2x6 material will be more than good for the top. Most all of the load is carried by the side panels of the cabinet. That being said, a tank that size will require a center support in the front, taller framing members for the top to carry the load over that span or other material that is rated to carry a load of that nature (metal, LVL lumber come to mind).

Try to find a good estimate of the tanks total weight. Look into load rating charts of different materials and find out what they are rated for your intended span across the front.
 

littlebeard

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I am no expert, but I recently did a stand somewhat similar to yours. This was my 2nd stand with somewhat similar design. I think a novice carpenter's point of view might be beneficial to you.

I agree with @JBKReef that a miter saw is the way to go for the 2x4 or 2x6 cutting. They just make fast perfect straight cuts and you can get all your bracing perfectly straight cuts with the exact same length which is key.

For the sides I'm assuming you'll use plywood, in which you would need to rip it with that circular saw... At my skill level I couldn't rip it without being off by HALF AN INCH... which is horrible. Ended up buying a router to fix my mistakes. I wish I had bought a track saw.

Look I know a circular saw is a great tool... In the hands of my father (master carpenter) it cuts straight and true... In the hands of me, looks like a 4 year old tried to draw a straight line.


I would also suggest adding a center support in the front of that design.

For height there are a few things to consider.
  • Can you fit everything underneath that you need to fit? Will the skimmer cup be able to raise up and pull out from under the stand? (I messed this up on my first build.)
  • What is the viewing angle of the tank? (Do you want to stand up and view it or sit and view it?)
  • How hard is it to work on the tank with that height? (My first tank was like 30 some inches tall, and with the base I had to use a ladder to work on it... needless to say it caused a lot of extra work to clean and I did not clean it as often because there was yet another step to work on it.)
 
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kris2for

kris2for

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Going off the "rocket engineer template" but wanted to have back open so could move a large sump in and out. Was hoping the 2x6 front support would of been enough. I guess i could just make it taller to fit in sump. As for height I wanted to be able to sit and enjoy but also not have to bend over to look at when in front.

Yes i will probably wrap in a thin plywood and then add pieces to match the current furniture design. Thats whole reason was asking if 2x6s would work for top table as the furniture design uses them instead of plywood. I guess it also adds to structure integrity.

I guess i could just borrow extra tools or even return if i dont damage them if just a few cuts.
So for sure Miter saw and circular saw. Maybe a router?
 

Apotack

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Tool rental shop should have what you need if you don’t want to buy a lot of tools.
 

smacbride

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Best tool I own is a table saw. I use it for just about all my DIY projects. Be careful as they can be dangerous (lost finger tips etc...)

I saw another DIY stand on here somewhere and they used joist hangers for the cross members, I would to that on your design.
 

Scott71

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Going off the "rocket engineer template" but wanted to have back open so could move a large sump in and out. Was hoping the 2x6 front support would of been enough. I guess i could just make it taller to fit in sump. As for height I wanted to be able to sit and enjoy but also not have to bend over to look at when in front.

Yes i will probably wrap in a thin plywood and then add pieces to match the current furniture design. Thats whole reason was asking if 2x6s would work for top table as the furniture design uses them instead of plywood. I guess it also adds to structure integrity.

I guess i could just borrow extra tools or even return if i dont damage them if just a few cuts.
So for sure Miter saw and circular saw. Maybe a router?
I would not use 2x6 for top. Putting them together to get a flat top will be almost impossible. Use Single piece of 3/4” plywood cut to size and wrap with 1x2 to make it look thicker than it is.

You can see in the pictures below for example what it looks like and behind the trim piece would be plywood top. If you wrap in a 1x4 then it looks 3.5” thick.

D9326D37-D634-49B6-B620-4C30417938F3.jpeg
2464C97B-3052-41EB-B7FC-0E02C8EF29A8.jpeg
 

shred5

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The stand below is what I built for my 125..

Mainly a miter saw. I do not think it would be easy without one. Circular saws are hard to get square cuts.

I had the top ripped by the place where I bought the plywood (furniture grade oak).
I have a table saw and a circular saw with a guide but most lumber places and Home Depot have a panel saw made for this.



1599768325359.png
 
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kris2for

kris2for

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Think im going to buy a miter saw and have lowes/home depot make the plywood big cuts.

Looks like the top boards are 1 1/8 x 3. Just wondering how i can match the "design" with a sheet of plywood over top.

design.jpg topmeasure.jpg
 

lapin

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I built a stand for my old 125 without a center brace. I used 2x6's for the cross beams and blocking. I actually made it wide enough to be able to take a 55 gallon home made sump out the end instead of the front.
For the top I used a ready made wood counter top I found at the HD or Lowes. It was somewhere about 1 inch thick as I recall.
Top.jpg

Table saw. Miter Saw. All screwed together.
 

shred5

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Think im going to buy a miter saw and have lowes/home depot make the plywood big cuts.

Looks like the top boards are 1 1/8 x 3. Just wondering how i can match the "design" with a sheet of plywood over top.

design.jpg topmeasure.jpg

That has a rustic/distressed look to it and has individual boards (tongue and groove). When you put individual boards together they are never even across meaning perfectly flat. With a tank with a rim that probably matters very little but would not work with rimless. Any higher point would put pressure points on the bottom of the tank.

Tongue and groove boards can be bought or done with a router.

With a rimless tank you would have too plane the top flat. That would take away from the look.
 

samnaz

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I would not use 2x6 for top. Putting them together to get a flat top will be almost impossible. Use Single piece of 3/4” plywood cut to size and wrap with 1x2 to make it look thicker than it is.

You can see in the pictures below for example what it looks like and behind the trim piece would be plywood top. If you wrap in a 1x4 then it looks 3.5” thick.

D9326D37-D634-49B6-B620-4C30417938F3.jpeg
2464C97B-3052-41EB-B7FC-0E02C8EF29A8.jpeg
+1 this is what I did with my stand ply top. Used 3/4” ply and wrapped the edge with 1 1/4” moulding.
 

Scott71

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If your length is 4 feet, you don’t need a center brace. At 4 feet you can use 2x4 for all of the base construction. It will support and be plenty strong. My tank is 100 gallon 48”x20”x24” and I have a 50 gallon sump underneath.


The corner vertical boards carry all of the weight. The top rails serve to distribute the weight.

I will share what I consider to be an outstanding thread on building a wooden stand from 2007.

Hope this is ok........


Pictures of my build below. Use magnets for canopy openings and hinges for front doors. Also have doors on each end. No center brace. All trim and molding is solid red oak. Canopy frame and base frame are 1/2” red oak plywood (plywood frame supports no weight. Only for looks). All stained and finished with water based urethane. Do not use regular polyurethane. You will regret it.

Supporting stand was made per the attached link using all 2x4 and painted with white epoxy.

Use wood glue and screws. Wood glue is much stronger than screws. Screws will pull everything tight and allow glue to dry and hold everything together.


81F2F37C-117C-475B-BC85-2C739FBE3DCD.png
B90D6ED0-099B-4193-A90C-9CB241E6BD8E.jpeg
6B05CE41-F035-45A7-A71D-8B216AE19E4E.jpeg
7654F472-3B7A-4B0D-A7D4-BD327CE6DB34.jpeg
26D3A037-BC6A-4E69-A06D-A0C4A67F90D5.jpeg
38433973-3E55-4A99-8206-1BDAA71187B0.jpeg
 
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kris2for

kris2for

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Should i just rent/buy a table saw over miter saw? Dont think i have the skill for straight cuts with a simple circular saw
 

shred5

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Should i just rent/buy a table saw over miter saw? Dont think i have the skill for straight cuts with a simple circular saw

Depends what your cutting.. Allot of plywood would be a table saw. Cutting allot of 2x4, 1x4, 2x6 or what you need a miter saw.

Plywood can easily be cut with a circular saw with a guide/straight edge with a nice square. Wont be perfect. Plus most lumber yards will cut plywood for you.

My issue is the framing is all 2x4 or some other construction and that needs square cuts and exact.. If the frame is not square none of the skinning matters. Framing needs a miter saw.

This is the framing for my 125 gallon:
What you put over it does not need to be exact and is just aesthetics.

1599849986742.png
 
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kris2for

kris2for

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Oh i do like that design it allows open sump area for large sump i wanted and looks more sturdy then the one i posted. Do you have a picture of the front/back?

Just trying to find a "all-in-one saw" i can tackle this project with. I dont have any equipment other then a power drill. I guess since most is the frame miter would work best?
 

shred5

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The link to my thread below where you can see the stand details. That stand was made for different size thanks. I originally built it to fit a 90 gallon with the option to upgrade to a 120, 125 or even a 180. That is why there is some weird bracing on the top and bottom.

This is my 90 build which has the stand build:

1599854638065.png


This is my 125 build which uses the stand form my 90.

1599854582792.png
 
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kris2for

kris2for

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Ok just cut everything thanks to a good miter saw. Trying to plan out how to fit a 55 gallon sump or large sump. From my measuring and math if I add a center support it wont be able to put in. Currently have a 2x6 for back support and legs like the plans listed.

Is both a center 2x6 and back 2x6 support necessary when running 2x6 frame up top and cross members on top?

Rimmed 125 filled weight is 1400 lbs
2x6 says can support 600-700 lbs. Im sure that increases once combined support and when I put 1 inch plywood on top
 

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