Dr Tim’s One and Only - Not working?

lapin

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If that is the case - why are folks like dr tim, mr saltwater tank, and madmatter reef (his was a 200+ gallon tank) saying it " can " take 7 days or less.
Can is a key word here. Depends on rock, sand, temp, light, salinity, "bacteria in sand , rock, air and the tank" before you added water... and the salt water gods. Lots of variables.
Curing pukani was an option for me - but I didn’t go that route because there was an import ban at the time and no one had it in stock so I went the dry macro + Dr Tim method instead.
And this was a fine way to go.
So in Jan I started cycling some rock for a tank. It was dry marco. 1 bottle of Tims per 100 gallon tub. Dosed ammonia. Added a table shrimp in each tub just because im old school. Added a powerhead. It took 3 weeks in the cold to cycle enough where I felt it was ready to go in the tank. I spoke with many people that cycled marco rock and all seem to agree that 3 weeks was the time period.
You can read post 37 and the next page post 66 with pictures.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2661185&page=2
http://www.austinreefclub.com/topic/38910-tank-sump-build-500-gal/?page=6

If anyone wants an instant tank, you need live rock with no die off. Even then you might have a mini cycle.
 
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saf1

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This is interesting to me. I didn't know You should dose the bacteria 1st then the ammonia .
Why does it make a difference?
I don't think it does. I just cycled a 210 using Dr. Tim's and fishless using his brand of ammonia back in February. It was about a week before I started to see the cycle start and about 30 days before everything was perfect and processing ammonia in less than 24 hours. Directions are below although not formatted the best...sorry. The way I read the instructions when I did mine a couple months back was mix the water, add it to the tank, add some dechlorinator to be safe even though I used RI/RO water, shake the bottle of Dr. Tim's, add it, let it cycle around for about 30 minutes, then dose the ammonia based on the gallons of water I had convert drops to ML and add. I measured ammonia 24 hours later and was pretty much spot on reading 2 ppm. Didn't add any more ammonia until I saw the cycle pattern then ammonia and nitrite read 0. Once that happened I re-dosed ammonia using the same amount per original dose and measured again in 24 hours to make sure it read 0. It did, cycle was done.

At that time I was traveling so left lights and skimmer off. Tank was official in April but mostly due to me being away. The product does work but don't expect it done in a day or two. It will vary but will also be quicker than traditional cycle. Best of luck.

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Directions Set-up your aquarium, filter and heater per the manufacturer’s directions. The One & Only Live Nitrifying Bacteria need a place to live so for best results your tank needs to have gravel or crushed coral on the tank bottom**.

After set-up the water may be cloudy and cold so it is preferable to let the system run overnight before adding the One & Only just to make sure everything is ok. If you have a skimmer, UV and/or ozonizier it’s best to set them up and test the connections now before adding the One & Only. If you are going to use a filter sock you can install it now to remove particles from the water.

Before adding One & Only dose the tank with the correct amount of First Defense to remove chlorine and chloramines, which can harm the One & Only Live Bacteria, from the water. Wait 30 minutes after adding First Defense to add the One & Only. Before adding One & Only you need to remove the filter sock and turn-off the UV, skimmer and ozonizier. These will stay out or off for 48 hours after adding One & Only. To add One & Only shake the bottle well for a few seconds then pour the entire bottle into your tank. You can also add the One & Only to your sump or filter. Your aquarium water may become cloudy but do not worry it will clear in a short time.

Add 1 drop (and one drop only*) of DrTim’s ammonium chloride per gallon of aquarium water. This is Day 1 in the chart below. We recommend NOT using household ammonia. Wait 24 hrs and measure ammonia, nitrite and pH. Record on the chart below - this is day 2. On day 3 add another drop of ammonia per gallon of aquarium water. Measure and record water quality for 2 more days. On Day 6 add another drop of ammonium chloride per gallon of aquarium water. Measure water quality on Days 7 & 8 - in most cases at this point ammonia and nitrite will be zero or below 0.5. Congrats! Your tank is cycled - now you can add some fish and enjoy your aquarium! Follow the schedule on the chart below ending with your first biweekly 25% water change. *Precautions - Do not add ammonia until you get a reading of 2 ppm NH3-N. Do not add ammonia everyday. If the pH drops below 7 perform a 25-30% water change taking the water from near the top of the water column. Do not disturb the substrate or remove the filter pad. If the ammonia or nitrite values are over 5 ppm NH3-N skip the next addition of ammonia drops.
 

glb

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You’re doing fine. Just take your time. The tank will eventually cycle. The one thing I’ve learned about saltwater tanks is that good things come with patience. I used Dr. Tim’s and then a few weeks later added Biospira to boost the cycle. It took about 3 weeks, which is considered normal.
 
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Gareth elliott

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They are not a silver bullet, every tank is different and take longer than others.
The bacteria have to find a nook to live, eat and reproduce a myriad of variables of flow, rock density, water chemistry all come into play.

Regardless of all that they definitely speed up the cycle compared to using no bottled bacteria on a dry started tank; which can take months.
 

Robink

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Dr. Tim's does work, have used it on all my tanks, qt also. Last tank went through the ammonia cycle in about 2 weeks. I followed Dr. Tim's instructions to the letter. Every tank is different. Just be patient. The bacteria will multiply and consume the ammonia.
 

Hitman

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Dr Tim’s has never worked for me. I personal have had success with Bio Spira for all my tanks. Just my 2cents
 

lapin

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You could make a Spira Tims cocktail. Just add a shrimp twist.
 
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ReefWithCare

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I tested after I added bio spira.

I’m at 1 PPM Ammonia, 5 PpM nitrites, and 20 PPM nitrates. I’m surprised on how high the nitrates are. How much of a water change do most of you do after the cycle is done?
 
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lapin

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I tested after I added bio spira.

I’m at 1 PPM Ammonia, 5 PpM nitrites, and 20 PPM nitrates. I’m surprised on how high the nitrates are. How much of a water change do most of you do after the cycle is done?
You will want to get rid of as much nitrate as you can. I try to cycle in a tub or trash can so the rock comes out leaving the nitrates behind, The more ammonia you add the higher the nitrates will be when you are done. Depending on how high they are when you are done. You can do a 50% water change and test . If after a week you feel they are still high, change another 25 to 50%
 

kp1991

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I cycled with 3 fish in a 10g it wasnt easy to keep ammonia down i wouldnt try cycling with fish unless your gonna be on it testing everyday
 

kp1991

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I cycled with 3 fish in a 10g it wasnt easy to keep ammonia down i wouldnt try cycling with fish unless your gonna be on it testing everyday
Also if anyone tells you they cycled in 7 days they are full of it no ways thats not enough time to culture enough beneficial bacteria to handle the bioload on the system a month even 2 months is more practical...imo
 

NeuroticAquatics

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Also if anyone tells you they cycled in 7 days they are full of it no ways thats not enough time to culture enough beneficial bacteria to handle the bioload on the system a month even 2 months is more practical...imo
Sorry, but it has taken just about a week each time I’ve done it. I’ve got no reason to lie about that and with 30+ years of doing reefs, I’m hardly a newbie. Each time, I have done the adding ammonium chloride and/or ammonia test and it was down to zero within 24hrs each time. Without bacteria, that can’t happen. Something’s got to be happening for that to occur.

My suggestion, is that while you can cycle a tank quickly using things like Dr Tim’s, I also strongly encourage adding fish slowly at first. I typically do one or two a month depending on their size and the size of the tank (I’ve got 28g, 55g, 60g and 240g now).
 

tankstudy

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Also if anyone tells you they cycled in 7 days they are full of it no ways thats not enough time to culture enough beneficial bacteria to handle the bioload on the system a month even 2 months is more practical...imo
I can actually get a cycle in about 2 days and then choose to either run a digestion test or increase the amount of ammonia, to further increase my bacteria load, for the next 1-2 days.

Compared to having to culture bacteria to reach certain population sizes, you can actually buy and dump in cultures that provide way more bacteria than you actually need. You can't really overdose on bottled bacteria.

The approach to this type of cycling is newer to the hobby. Some are still uncertain about it, even calling it snake oil or whatever, but the science is pretty simple to understand. Compared to buying rocks with bacteria on it, you buy bottles with bacteria in it.

During my undergrad days, ~ 15 years ago, we were transporting, culturing and storing bacteria easily. It was only a matter of time before someone bottled the bacteria we all keep and put it on the store shelf.

However, rapid cycling, still requires a good grasp behind the science of it. There are certain conditions that need to be met/maintained.

If it wasn't for bottled bacteria I wouldn't be in this hobby. I move very frequently.
 

Brew12

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I did talk to them but all I got was broken English responses and they werent very helpful.
That is unfortunate.

Dr Tims is a find product imo. He also developed Biospira which I also think works well. They both have their limitations. Fortunately, adding the bottle after bumping up your ammonia shouldn't negatively impact either product.

For instance, in a larger tank it will take much longer to process 2ppm ammonia than in a smaller tank. What size is your tank, and what size bottle did you add?

Nitrifying bacteria are very slow reproducers compared to most other bacteria types. If exposed to high temperatures, the bacteria may not arrive in as good a condition as they otherwise would and may take longer to reproduce to significant numbers. Freezing is what you really need to avoid as that can make the product worthless.

Another key thing if you aren't already doing it is to shine a light at the back of the seachem badge to read it. It can look higher than it actually is if not back lit or if lit with blue reef lighting.
 
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