Dr Tim’s One and Only - Not working?

OP
OP
ReefWithCare

ReefWithCare

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 3, 2016
Messages
1,059
Reaction score
723
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
That is unfortunate.

Dr Tims is a find product imo. He also developed Biospira which I also think works well. They both have their limitations. Fortunately, adding the bottle after bumping up your ammonia shouldn't negatively impact either product.

For instance, in a larger tank it will take much longer to process 2ppm ammonia than in a smaller tank. What size is your tank, and what size bottle did you add?

Nitrifying bacteria are very slow reproducers compared to most other bacteria types. If exposed to high temperatures, the bacteria may not arrive in as good a condition as they otherwise would and may take longer to reproduce to significant numbers. Freezing is what you really need to avoid as that can make the product worthless.

Another key thing if you aren't already doing it is to shine a light at the back of the seachem badge to read it. It can look higher than it actually is if not back lit or if lit with blue reef lighting.

That’s good to know that I didn’t nuke the tank [emoji28].

The tank is 125G with a 55G sump that has 30G when operating. I used a full 120G rated bottle and half of another 120G rated bottle.

Nothing really happened until I add Bio Spira. I think Dr Tim died during shipping as it was over 100 degrees here and I had 2 days shipping. Bio Spira was picked up at the LFS.

The cycle kicked off after adding bio spira. I’m now at 0.25 ammonia, 2.0 nitrites, and about 20 Nitrates using an API test kit.
 

Brew12

Electrical Gru
View Badges
Joined
Aug 14, 2016
Messages
22,488
Reaction score
61,020
Location
Decatur, AL
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
That’s good to know that I didn’t nuke the tank [emoji28].

The tank is 125G with a 55G sump that has 30G when operating. I used a full 120G rated bottle and half of another 120G rated bottle.

Nothing really happened until I add Bio Spira. I think Dr Tim died during shipping as it was over 100 degrees here and I had 2 days shipping. Bio Spira was picked up at the LFS.

The cycle kicked off after adding bio spira. I’m now at 0.25 ammonia, 2.0 nitrites, and about 20 Nitrates using an API test kit.
I'm glad you are back on track!

Remember that your nitrate test will not be accurate until your nitrites are 0ppm. ;)
 
OP
OP
ReefWithCare

ReefWithCare

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 3, 2016
Messages
1,059
Reaction score
723
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I'm glad you are back on track!

Remember that your nitrate test will not be accurate until your nitrites are 0ppm. ;)

That prob explains why they have been all over the place. I am concerned that I will have sky high nitrates when I’m done. As you know with a tank this size a very large water change is $ [emoji29]
 

Brew12

Electrical Gru
View Badges
Joined
Aug 14, 2016
Messages
22,488
Reaction score
61,020
Location
Decatur, AL
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
That prob explains why they have been all over the place. I am concerned that I will have sky high nitrates when I’m done. As you know with a tank this size a very large water change is $ [emoji29]
They will be high, but hopefully not too bad. Nitrate tests work by converting the nitrates to nitrites and then staining them so your nitrites and nitrates are added together. When your nitrites do reach 0ppm your actual nitrates will be higher but your test will correctly show a lower reading (most likely).
 

MSOEME2009

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 5, 2018
Messages
235
Reaction score
209
Location
Knoxville, TN
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I will also attest to the Dr. Tim's fail. Added BioSpira and it took off. It also helped to keep the Nitrite down by doing a partial water change.

In the end, I let my tank cycle for 2 months. No light, and I covered the sides. I dosed ammonia + ghost fed at the end to help get the type of bacteria which actually breaks down food/waste into ammonia.

I also ran a refugium while it was cycling.
 

kp1991

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Apr 23, 2018
Messages
253
Reaction score
167
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
My appologies this is new news to me i learned an old school way from my pops not used to all these new methods but aye if it works and it possible i might give it a try if i start up something new... i guess you learn something new everyday thanks for the knowlege on how its done so rapidly
 

OriginalUserName

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Apr 15, 2018
Messages
1,035
Reaction score
923
Location
Overland Park KS
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Dr Tim's seems to be working. I still have a ton of ammonia but I started off with a large amount of ammonium chloride. Don't know if it worked "well", but working.
 

jgaepi

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 26, 2019
Messages
215
Reaction score
98
Location
Davis, CA
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I don't think it does. I just cycled a 210 using Dr. Tim's and fishless using his brand of ammonia back in February. It was about a week before I started to see the cycle start and about 30 days before everything was perfect and processing ammonia in less than 24 hours. Directions are below although not formatted the best...sorry. The way I read the instructions when I did mine a couple months back was mix the water, add it to the tank, add some dechlorinator to be safe even though I used RI/RO water, shake the bottle of Dr. Tim's, add it, let it cycle around for about 30 minutes, then dose the ammonia based on the gallons of water I had convert drops to ML and add. I measured ammonia 24 hours later and was pretty much spot on reading 2 ppm. Didn't add any more ammonia until I saw the cycle pattern then ammonia and nitrite read 0. Once that happened I re-dosed ammonia using the same amount per original dose and measured again in 24 hours to make sure it read 0. It did, cycle was done.

At that time I was traveling so left lights and skimmer off. Tank was official in April but mostly due to me being away. The product does work but don't expect it done in a day or two. It will vary but will also be quicker than traditional cycle. Best of luck.

==================================================================================================

Directions Set-up your aquarium, filter and heater per the manufacturer’s directions. The One & Only Live Nitrifying Bacteria need a place to live so for best results your tank needs to have gravel or crushed coral on the tank bottom**.

After set-up the water may be cloudy and cold so it is preferable to let the system run overnight before adding the One & Only just to make sure everything is ok. If you have a skimmer, UV and/or ozonizier it’s best to set them up and test the connections now before adding the One & Only. If you are going to use a filter sock you can install it now to remove particles from the water.

Before adding One & Only dose the tank with the correct amount of First Defense to remove chlorine and chloramines, which can harm the One & Only Live Bacteria, from the water. Wait 30 minutes after adding First Defense to add the One & Only. Before adding One & Only you need to remove the filter sock and turn-off the UV, skimmer and ozonizier. These will stay out or off for 48 hours after adding One & Only. To add One & Only shake the bottle well for a few seconds then pour the entire bottle into your tank. You can also add the One & Only to your sump or filter. Your aquarium water may become cloudy but do not worry it will clear in a short time.

Add 1 drop (and one drop only*) of DrTim’s ammonium chloride per gallon of aquarium water. This is Day 1 in the chart below. We recommend NOT using household ammonia. Wait 24 hrs and measure ammonia, nitrite and pH. Record on the chart below - this is day 2. On day 3 add another drop of ammonia per gallon of aquarium water. Measure and record water quality for 2 more days. On Day 6 add another drop of ammonium chloride per gallon of aquarium water. Measure water quality on Days 7 & 8 - in most cases at this point ammonia and nitrite will be zero or below 0.5. Congrats! Your tank is cycled - now you can add some fish and enjoy your aquarium! Follow the schedule on the chart below ending with your first biweekly 25% water change. *Precautions - Do not add ammonia until you get a reading of 2 ppm NH3-N. Do not add ammonia everyday. If the pH drops below 7 perform a 25-30% water change taking the water from near the top of the water column. Do not disturb the substrate or remove the filter pad. If the ammonia or nitrite values are over 5 ppm NH3-N skip the next addition of ammonia drops.
I know this thread is a year old but I’m having my own delayed start. I followed the directions but I’m registering about 4ppm of ammonia a week later. Dr Tims says it’s my live sand and salt as well that’s adding ammonia. They want me to do a water change. But won’t that just dilute the ammonia - and thus the cycle?
 

jgaepi

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 26, 2019
Messages
215
Reaction score
98
Location
Davis, CA
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Use Fritz Zyme turbo start. I tried most of them and they reduced ammonia. Turbo start removed the ammonia
Do I add Fritz on top of the all in one or leave well enough alone. FWIW, fritz is already coming from algaebarn for the display tank. The issue in question is the acclimation tank that is on the slow track.
 

tankstudy

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Apr 22, 2014
Messages
1,769
Reaction score
1,508
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I know this thread is a year old but I’m having my own delayed start. I followed the directions but I’m registering about 4ppm of ammonia a week later. Dr Tims says it’s my live sand and salt as well that’s adding ammonia. They want me to do a water change. But won’t that just dilute the ammonia - and thus the cycle?

You'll want to follow his instructions. If your ammonia reaches or comes close to 5 ppm ammonia, the cycle stalls by a large factor. What should take 24-48 hours will take weeks to months.

An over abundance of ammonia seems to inhibit growth/cycling of ammonia.

This is a common issue with bottled bacteria and an ammonia source. Do 50% water change and this should split the ammonia in half to 2 ppm. The cycle will start again so don't add anymore ammonia or bacteria.
 

jgaepi

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 26, 2019
Messages
215
Reaction score
98
Location
Davis, CA
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
You'll want to follow his instructions. If your ammonia reaches or comes close to 5 ppm ammonia, the cycle stalls by a large factor. What should take 24-48 hours will take weeks to months.

An over abundance of ammonia seems to inhibit growth/cycling of ammonia.

This is a common issue with bottled bacteria and an ammonia source. Do 50% water change and this should split the ammonia in half to 2 ppm. The cycle will start again so don't add anymore ammonia or bacteria.
So, I’m out of the house until Friday so it will have to sit until then.
It does make the product pretty deceiving. Doubt have many perfect experiences. Though it is still better than cycling with fish. ‍♂️
 

tankstudy

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Apr 22, 2014
Messages
1,769
Reaction score
1,508
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
So, I’m out of the house until Friday so it will have to sit until then.
It does make the product pretty deceiving. Doubt have many perfect experiences. Though it is still better than cycling with fish. ‍♂

No worries. The bacteria won't die in the mean time. When you return, just do a water change. It will start you back up.
 

alton

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 8, 2016
Messages
1,868
Reaction score
3,215
Location
Zuehl, Texas
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Do I add Fritz on top of the all in one or leave well enough alone. FWIW, fritz is already coming from algaebarn for the display tank. The issue in question is the acclimation tank that is on the slow track.
I used Turbo Start in a 100 gallon QT tank when my foam filters did not provide enough biological load for three angelfish. I used several bottles of other brands of bacteria before using the Turbo Start. Since it is active bacteria and has to be refrigerated. It doesn't have a very long shelf life, so I had to order it from my LFS.
 

Mastering the art of locking and unlocking water pathways: What type of valves do you have on your aquarium plumbing?

  • Ball valves.

    Votes: 66 51.6%
  • Gate valves.

    Votes: 67 52.3%
  • Check valves.

    Votes: 32 25.0%
  • None.

    Votes: 29 22.7%
  • Other.

    Votes: 9 7.0%
Back
Top