Dry rock cycle in a Brute?

[Jordan J]

First time posting here, so I apologize I dont know all of the policies, etc.

I am extremely new to reefing. I have been researching hundreds of hours before starting my first tank to ensure I start off on the right foot.

I bought approx 60 lbs of dry reef saver rock (never been live) from my lfs and now I'm just waiting on my tank (2plus weeks). I have 2 44 gallon brute trash cans and an rodi system. I really want to start my cycle because I want to do it right, and I know how long it takes.

I have given the rock a good cleaning and have been wanting to just add it to one of the Brute containers with fresh SW, a heater and a powerhead. Then just add my ammonia/bacteria source and let the cycle start.

I have two questions.
If the tank comes before the cycle completes, should I just transfer all of the water from the cycling brute plus any additional water needed to fill the tank/sump? Or do I just pull the rock and use it as a 100 percent water change?
Or I could just leave the rock in the brute to complete the cycle and then introduce it to the new tank?

Thanks for any advice/comments!

I am pretty pumped to be a part of the community!

 

[Dom]

Dry rock was live at one point. It is why we have to cycle it before use... to deal with the organics in the rock.

You should discard the water from the rock cycle. Pull the rock from the brute, let it thoroughly drain out and then add it to your tank using brand new water salt water created with RODI and salt mix.

You should absolutely complete the cycle in the brute can.

Welcome to R2R! You have a very knowledgeable community here at your disposal.

 

[fernalfer]

What if your cycle is complete in my brute can but i won't have my tank up and running for another month. How should i go about keeping the bacteria fed? I used the fishless method with pure ammonia to get it cycled.

 

[Jekyl]

Keep up with some type of ammonia. Either dosing or phantom feeding

 

[Mastiffsrule]

Looks like you have read and researched. Keep posting and asking questions. When you get your tank you could do a build thread.

And #WelcometoR2R

 

[Goodair]

What if your cycle is complete in my brute can but i won't have my tank up and running for another month. How should i go about keeping the bacteria fed? I used the fishless method with pure ammonia to get it cycled.

Keep up with some type of ammonia. Either dosing or phantom feeding

Once the nitrates are showing up, just keep ghost feeding and change some water once the nitrates get too high. I had mine ready in a brute for about a month before adding it to the main tank and worked fine. Just make sure you keep ghost feeding, heating and circulating. You don't have to be as vigorous testing at that point.
After you place it in your main tank, give it a lil time and treat test it as if it was new because you never know, before adding fish. Starting with all fresh SW already heated when you transfer the rock would be easier to test aswell. Better safe than kicking yourself for not waiting an extra few days or weeks.

 

[redfishbluefish]

Just to be clear on definitions, two processes need to occur...a rock cure and a cycle. This can occur simultaneously.

The cure allows the old dead stuff to completely decay and leach out of the rock. The cycle allows new bacteria to move in that will be responsible for converting ammonia to eventually nitrate.

When the rock begins to cure it will be releasing nitrates and phosphates. Don't confuse the presence of nitrate with the cycle being complete. Depending on how "dirty" the rock is, a cure can take between one to two months. The only thing needed is saltwater a little flow. No light or heater needed ( assuming your doing this at room temperature. Monitor nitrates (phosphates), Maybe weekly, and do water changes as needed. I'd wait at least two weeks or so to get the cycle going. Hope this helps.

 

[Firemanreefkeeper]

I started my last 2 tanks with rocks in a trashcan. Worked fine for me. Like it's been said, ghost feed it every couple of days, not a lot, and it will keep the bacteria Fed. Once it's out of the can and in the tank, let it run for a week or so and test it just to be safe. Welcome to the community too!

 

[cracker]

Thanks red fish, Couldn't say this any better. One thing, I have found is the dry base is loaded with phosphates . This can lead to algae issues down the road .
Consider just soaking the rock in new salt water wait as long as you can. Then test for phosphates. Other than that, RedFish is right !

 

[fernalfer]

Just to be clear on definitions, two processes need to occur...a rock cure and a cycle. This can occur simultaneously.

The cure allows the old dead stuff to completely decay and leach out of the rock. The cycle allows new bacteria to move in that will be responsible for converting ammonia to eventually nitrate.

When the rock begins to cure it will be releasing nitrates and phosphates. Don't confuse the presence of nitrate with the cycle being complete. Depending on how "dirty" the rock is, a cure can take between one to two months. The only thing needed is saltwater a little flow. No light or heater needed ( assuming your doing this at room temperature. Monitor nitrates (phosphates), Maybe weekly, and do water changes as needed. I'd wait at least two weeks or so to get the cycle going. Hope this helps.

Well I started with dryrock. I put my rock in containers with bleach for 2 weeks. After rinsing and air drying I put my rock in a Muriatic Acid bath. Then the rock was placed in a brute container to start the cycle. The rock did leach a little phosphate but used Lantanum chloride to get it to zero. Now that rock is cycled I guess I will just keep dosing pure ammonia to feed the bacteria. Just not sure how much I should dose?

 

[lapin]

Just to be clear on definitions, two processes need to occur...a rock cure and a cycle. This can occur simultaneously.

The cure allows the old dead stuff to completely decay and leach out of the rock. The cycle allows new bacteria to move in that will be responsible for converting ammonia to eventually nitrate.

When the rock begins to cure it will be releasing nitrates and phosphates. Don't confuse the presence of nitrate with the cycle being complete. Depending on how "dirty" the rock is, a cure can take between one to two months. The only thing needed is saltwater a little flow. No light or heater needed ( assuming your doing this at room temperature. Monitor nitrates (phosphates), Maybe weekly, and do water changes as needed. I'd wait at least two weeks or so to get the cycle going. Hope this helps.

Thanks red fish, Couldn't say this any better. One thing, I have found is the dry base is loaded with phosphates . This can lead to algae issues down the road .
Consider just soaking the rock in new salt water wait as long as you can. Then test for phosphates. Other than that, RedFish is right !

I think it might be a good idea if one of our great writers here did an article on rock with names and what it is curing/ cycling ect...
There seems to be great confusion caused by naming of rock. You have your Real Reef Rock, Walt Simth's Reef Rock, CaribSea LifeRock these are man made. You have Marco Rock, AquaMaxx Eco-Rock, these are dry mined and lack organics. Then you have Pukani Dry Rock and others that have dried organics on them and will leach phosphates. Last you have rock from Tampa Bay Saltwater that has actually been left in the ocean and is really live.

 

[DothanReefer]

I think it might be a good idea if one of our great writers here did an article on rock with names and what it is curing/ cycling ect...
There seems to be great confusion caused by naming of rock. You have your Real Reef Rock, Walt Simth's Reef Rock, CaribSea LifeRock these are man made. You have Marco Rock, AquaMaxx Eco-Rock, these are dry mined and lack organics. Then you have Pukani Dry Rock and others that have dried organics on them and will leach phosphates. Last you have rock from Tampa Bay Saltwater that has actually been left in the ocean and is really live.

I am days away from ordering new rock and really wish their was an article/video to break this all down in one place....so worried about starting out on the wrong path. I'm a complete rookie, deciding btw RS Reefer XL300, WB Marine 70.3 or WB Reef 100.3. Cant make up my mind. Whilst I'm trying to, I've purchased a couple Brute cans and am in the process of deciding on rock. Does anyone know of a good all-in-one resource for choosing rock, curing it (if needed) and cycling it??

Any input on which of the 3 systems above would also be greatly appreciated!

Cant wait to get started.

DW
Dothan, AL

 

[lapin]

Does anyone know of a good all-in-one resource for choosing rock, curing it (if needed) and cycling it??
Any input on which of the 3 systems above would also be greatly appreciated!
Dothan, AL

This for basics.

Cycling an Aquarium

Cycling a new aquarium. One of the earliest topics a new aquarium hobbyist needs to learn is how to properly cycle their aquarium. There is a ton of information on this process and many different methods on how to accomplish it. There are many different chemical and biological cycles our tank...

www.reef2reef.com

It really depends on your tank size, what you want to keep and how you want to get started.
Do you want to start with a lot of biodiversity or none? Dry mined rock like Marco Rock has nothing and is actual reef rock. You will add bacteria and food to get your cycle going before adding fish. Tampa Bay is rock thats been in the ocean and has bacteria and all kinds of stuff on it (good and bad things).You might need to remove unwanted critters and other pests. No need to add any bacteria. You tank is fish ready with this rock. The man made rock is just that. Fake rock. Some comes with spores on it so you just add water. Others will need bacteria and food to start your cycle to become fish ready.

Because my tank is large and I wanted large pieces of rock, I choose Marco Rock . It is pest free, no dried organics and the price was right for a pallet load of large 40lb pieces.

Smaller tanks, you can move rocks around, create scapes re-scape them ect...

For some more confusion or helpful hints

Preparing Rock - Reef Central Online Community

Preparing Rock New to the Hobby

reefcentral.com

 

[Birddog61]

Jordan j, def finish out your rock in the brute, avoid pre packaged live sand as this will need to cycle and defeats the efforts of prepairing your rock. . Also the smaller the particle size you feed the rock the faster it breaks down thus shortening the process