Emergency QT Help

RamsReef

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They can almost jump to it... haha
Lookin good, hopefully you don't bump it with the car :p
 

jenreefer

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Thanks for the responses! I still need to add a yellow tang and 2 chromis, not sure if it can handle the load :/. And a mandarin if I can find it, do you know if pods survive copper? How do I feed a mandarin that only eats pods? Put in some cheato from my sump (Have tons of it), let the pods die off and the mandarin will still eat them? Then just add cheato every few days?

Salt
You may want a bigger or second QT for the tang.

I added macro to QT every few days to feed pods to wrasse, it worked great.

Rock from display will bring more parasites to the QT so I would avoid it in future. It also absorbs then releases copper which makes it hard to keep levels in therapeutic range. Measure levels daily.

Add an airstone for better aeration. One of the cons of mixing different products is low oxygen saturation of the water. The low levels of copper will slow down the Velvet and keep it at bay while you bring levels up.

One of the things I did was add bacteria to the QT to get rapid cycle and quick ability to handle ammonia.

I am going through this right now. Took a week to get all fish out of DT, and complete removal of most of rocks in the process. :rolleyes: Now have fish in two QT to manage ammonia levels and keep the peace.

You are doing the right thing by acting, just take a deep breath and realize that this too shall pass.
 
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Lookin good, hopefully you don't bump it with the car :p

:p yea that's the weekend toy, usually only take it out once every week or so, 93 300zx 5 spd convertible 73k miles.

Hindsight, should have slid the tank over more, but we were tired when we unloaded, and we unloaded that beast with only two people, we loaded with 4. We were at our limit! Glad we didn't drop it haha
 
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You may want a bigger or second QT for the tang.

I added macro to QT every few days to feed pods to wrasse, it worked great.

Rock from display will bring more parasites to the QT so I would avoid it in future. It also absorbs then releases copper which makes it hard to keep levels in therapeutic range. Measure levels daily.

Add an airstone for better aeration. One of the cons of mixing different products is low oxygen saturation of the water. The low levels of copper will slow down the Velvet and keep it at bay while you bring levels up.

One of the things I did was add bacteria to the QT to get rapid cycle and quick ability to handle ammonia.

I am going through this right now. Took a week to get all fish out of DT, and complete removal of most of rocks in the process. :rolleyes: Now have fish in two QT to manage ammonia levels and keep the peace.

You are doing the right thing by acting, just take a deep breath and realize that this too shall pass.


Thanks!! yea, I just bought a 20g long, since Petco had their $1 per gallon sale. But everyone is fine in the 10 atm, no ammonia issues, happy, eating. So I'm going to move them to the 20 after 30 days in copper. Then from the 20 into the 180 when it's ready. Once they are in the 180 going to get 2-3 tangs into QT.

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I realize the 180 is probably just there so you can work on it, but I wanted to post this reminder out of an abundance of caution: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/aerosol-transmission.190292/

Thanks!! I've read about this. The 180 is currently full of tap water and 3-4 gallons of vinegar, would it be able to survive in such an environment? Obviously it will be drained before moving it into the house. If I let it dry for a couple of days while I plumb, would this reduce the risk?

The QT does have a lid on it if that helps at all.
 

Humblefish

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Thanks!! I've read about this. The 180 is currently full of tap water and 3-4 gallons of vinegar, would it be able to survive in such an environment? Obviously it will be drained before moving it into the house. If I let it dry for a couple of days while I plumb, would this reduce the risk?

The QT does have a lid on it if that helps at all.

There is no risk until you put SW in it. And even then, only free swimming theronts would transfer via aerosolized droplets. Those die within 48 hrs without a fish host to feed upon.

CORRECTION: Ich theronts die within 48 hrs without a fish host. However,
velvet dinospores (free swimmers) can remain infective for up to 15 days; because as a dinoflagellate they can use photosynthesis to obtain energy. So much to keep track of. ;)
 
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