Engineered goby covered in white

CeeFish

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My engineered goby was living in hus own tank for the last 3+ months until my husband decided to add 2 new moorish idols to his tank. Both idols died within a few days. About 2 weeks later (today), I went to feed the goby while husband updates the DT and find him COVERED in white with "rot" spots on some areas and cloudy eyes. Afyer feeding him (he didnt eat), he's no longer hiding (as usual) and is hanging onto the heater box. Should I FW dip? Ruby Rally or Prazi? It's possible this disease came from cross contaminated equipment as our Cowfish is also in his own tank and not doing well with similar symptoms.

20220420_011433.jpg 20220420_010415.jpg 20220420_011855.jpg
 

fishguy242

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can you combine this post with the other ?
best to get all information in one thread .
 

vetteguy53081

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Poor guy has velvet and will need to be quarantined and treated with coppersafe at therapeutic level 2.24-2.5 monitored with a reliable copper test kit at 80.5 degrees
API not reliable kit
Do the treatment for full 30 days
Did you check other occupants in tank who may have it?
 

Jay Hemdal

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My engineered goby was living in hus own tank for the last 3+ months until my husband decided to add 2 new moorish idols to his tank. Both idols died within a few days. About 2 weeks later (today), I went to feed the goby while husband updates the DT and find him COVERED in white with "rot" spots on some areas and cloudy eyes. Afyer feeding him (he didnt eat), he's no longer hiding (as usual) and is hanging onto the heater box. Should I FW dip? Ruby Rally or Prazi? It's possible this disease came from cross contaminated equipment as our Cowfish is also in his own tank and not doing well with similar symptoms.

20220420_011433.jpg 20220420_010415.jpg 20220420_011855.jpg

Welcome to Reef2Reef!

This fish likely has ich, as does the cowfish in the other thread. Do you have a treatment tank available? These fish are pretty well infected, it is going to be difficult to cure them.
Your best options are coppersafe or low salinity, neither can be done with invertebrates in the tank.

My guess is the moorish idols came in wit it and died, and the disease spread to your older fish.

Jay
 
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CeeFish

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Yes we have other tanks available to do QT. I read elsewhere about using H2O2 dosing and UV light. Not sure if that applies to this situation. Coppersafe is ok to use since Goby and Cow are scale-less fish, right? I know actual copper is bad for them. Just trying to purchase the right product. I tried to get Chloroquine Phosphate from my vet with no luck too. Blue Hippo Tang and Copperband have white spots in DT now too. I am sure the others will too soon, if not already.

We have a 180g tank with lots of corals, snails, hermit crabs, several anenomes, peppermint shrimp, blind shrimp that hangs out with a wrasse, Blue Hippo Tang, blue eyed cole tang, cleaner wrasse, Maroon clown, Copperband butterfly, mandarin, Purple Dart, Keyhole Angel, Ransford, and Coral Beauty Angel.

Engineered Goby and Cowfish were removed over a week ago to separate tanks. We've had those 2 guys for 5+ years :(
 

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Jay Hemdal

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Yes we have other tanks available to do QT. I read elsewhere about using H2O2 dosing and UV light. Not sure if that applies to this situation. Coppersafe is ok to use since Goby and Cow are scale-less fish, right? I know actual copper is bad for them. Just trying to purchase the right product. I tried to get Chloroquine Phosphate from my vet with no luck too. Blue Hippo Tang and Copperband have white spots in DT now too. I am sure the others will too soon, if not already.

We have a 180g tank with lots of corals, snails, hermit crabs, several anenomes, peppermint shrimp, blind shrimp that hangs out with a wrasse, Blue Hippo Tang, blue eyed cole tang, cleaner wrasse, Maroon clown, Copperband butterfly, mandarin, Purple Dart, Keyhole Angel, Ransford, and Coral Beauty Angel.

Engineered Goby and Cowfish were removed over a week ago to separate tanks. We've had those 2 guys for 5+ years :(

I think you really need to get a solid treatment started right away...coppersafe or hyposalinity. You'll need to get the copper level up to full within 24 hours or get the hyposalinity down to 1.009 within 36 hours (in six small steps).

I would NOT rely on H2O2 dosing or UV lights at this point. They show some limited promise in managing light ich infections, but once it gets this severe, they just don't work.

Jay
 

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