Eradicating uronema once and for all with metroplex

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With the exception of flukes, viruses, and Uronema, it is my understanding that almost all common marine fish diseases can be removed from a system by leaving it fallow for 6 weeks. Obviously, having healthy fish is most important. Nevertheless, I am interested in the preventative step to decrease risk. Risk of flukes may be removed by avoiding all mollusks. Viruses are too diverse and evolve too quickly for any treatment to be feasible, plus play a key role in viral shunt.

I am wondering what eradication steps can be taken to remove Uronema from a system. Uronema doesn't require a host and is usually a scavenger/decomposer so it can persist off detritus in a system indefinitely.

I have heard that it may be removed by a 14-day regimen of MetroPlex (metronidazole). Is this still the most up-to-date advice that people give? What are some alternatives? What strong evidence do people have that this actually works?

I know I have it lurking in one of my systems since a fish caught it after I introduced it. I was able to cure it using one initial brackish dip which briefly visually helped, a weak h2o2 dip a few days later that visually helped a bit but seemed to hurt the fish more, then finally two Ich-X dips a few days later spaced a few days apart that seemed to do the job, all while running UV in the tank after observing symptoms.
 
With the exception of flukes, viruses, and Uronema, it is my understanding that almost all common marine fish diseases can be removed from a system by leaving it fallow for 6 weeks. Obviously, having healthy fish is most important. Nevertheless, I am interested in the preventative step to decrease risk. Risk of flukes may be removed by avoiding all mollusks. Viruses are too diverse and evolve too quickly for any treatment to be feasible, plus play a key role in viral shunt.

I am wondering what eradication steps can be taken to remove Uronema from a system. Uronema doesn't require a host and is usually a scavenger/decomposer so it can persist off detritus in a system indefinitely.

I have heard that it may be removed by a 14-day regimen of MetroPlex (metronidazole). Is this still the most up-to-date advice that people give? What are some alternatives? What strong evidence do people have that this actually works?

I know I have it lurking in one of my systems since a fish caught it after I introduced it. I was able to cure it using one initial brackish dip which briefly visually helped, a weak h2o2 dip a few days later that visually helped a bit but seemed to hurt the fish more, then finally two Ich-X dips a few days later spaced a few days apart that seemed to do the job, all while running UV in the tank after observing symptoms.
Best method from Uronema is prevention- Removing waste from tank, not overfeeding and assure salinity does not drop. Other for me is adding ruby rally pro to tank which is invert and coral safe
I dont recommend Metro unless absolutely necessary and must be applied precisely by weight (5gm) and it makes food taste bitter to fish
 
Metro is most effective on surfaces. Uronema are unique in that it can survive without a host by feeding on detritus, bacteria, etc; think of them as reef roaches.

There is a promising experimentation with h2o2 (i.e, hydrogen peroxide) dosing. Humble fish has a few dedicated threads on the subject, with some users having used third party water analysis and reporting verified uronema eradication from their systems. The regimen is relatively easy if you have a calibrated dosing pump on a timer; there is a spreadsheet available on that forum to help you determine proper dosage and frequency.
 
With the exception of flukes, viruses, and Uronema, it is my understanding that almost all common marine fish diseases can be removed from a system by leaving it fallow for 6 weeks. Obviously, having healthy fish is most important. Nevertheless, I am interested in the preventative step to decrease risk. Risk of flukes may be removed by avoiding all mollusks. Viruses are too diverse and evolve too quickly for any treatment to be feasible, plus play a key role in viral shunt.
Flukes. can be removed with a fallow period. Viruses can never be eliminated - because they can come in with any new addition and there is no treatment. Uronema is present in most tanks.
I am wondering what eradication steps can be taken to remove Uronema from a system. Uronema doesn't require a host and is usually a scavenger/decomposer so it can persist off detritus in a system indefinitely.
There is no reason to remove uronema IMHO - The best method is to remove detritus - if you're concerned about it. However, my guess is (no science behind it) - is that Uronema is very opportunistic - and often comes in with the fish - as compared to something your fish catch from your tank. I'd like to have @Jay Hemdal opinion on this
I have heard that it may be removed by a 14-day regimen of MetroPlex (metronidazole). Is this still the most up-to-date advice that people give? What are some alternatives? What strong evidence do people have that this actually works?
It does not work - simply because it can be re-introduced nearly immediately when something brings it in. Secondly, metronidazole is not fail-proof either
I know I have it lurking in one of my systems since a fish caught it after I introduced it. I was able to cure it using one initial brackish dip which briefly visually helped, a weak h2o2 dip a few days later that visually helped a bit but seemed to hurt the fish more, then finally two Ich-X dips a few days later spaced a few days apart that seemed to do the job, all while running UV in the tank after observing symptoms.
I think the fish recovered despite what you did. I.e. it was correlation, not causation. Or it was a misdiagnosis. You can always send your tank samples to @AquaBiomics - to see if Uronema is still present - with a couple caveats - the sensitivity and specificity, and second - what you would do differently (I would do nothing differently)
 
Metro is most effective on surfaces. Uronema are unique in that it can survive without a host by feeding on detritus, bacteria, etc; think of them as reef roaches.

There is a promising experimentation with h2o2 (i.e, hydrogen peroxide) dosing. Humble fish has a few dedicated threads on the subject, with some users having used third party water analysis and reporting verified uronema eradication from their systems. The regimen is relatively easy if you have a calibrated dosing pump on a timer; there is a spreadsheet available on that forum to help you determine proper dosage and frequency.
I'm not sure there is evidence (but glad to hear any you have:) that what you say is true. The problem with 'eradicating it' is it comes back with potentially every addition - it is ubiquitous. It would be my opinion (and mine alone) - that the dosing, etc - is great - until something else is added. Uronema is ubiquitous - if you're not adding anything more to your tank - that may be a different issue
 
Best method from Uronema is prevention- Removing waste from tank, not overfeeding and assure salinity does not drop. Other for me is adding ruby rally pro to tank which is invert and coral safe
I dont recommend Metro unless absolutely necessary and must be applied precisely by weight (5gm) and it makes food taste bitter to fish
I thought that had formalin inside? Isn't that a carcinogen?
Metro is most effective on surfaces. Uronema are unique in that it can survive without a host by feeding on detritus, bacteria, etc; think of them as reef roaches.

There is a promising experimentation with h2o2 (i.e, hydrogen peroxide) dosing. Humble fish has a few dedicated threads on the subject, with some users having used third party water analysis and reporting verified uronema eradication from their systems. The regimen is relatively easy if you have a calibrated dosing pump on a timer; there is a spreadsheet available on that forum to help you determine proper dosage and frequency.
Do you have a link for this? I am a bit worried since I have a lot of shrimps in the Lysmata genus, which die from the slightest bit of h2o2. If I remove them temporarily I am worried they're going to be mechanical carriers. However, if there is no eDNA being found thats something I might want to take a look at. Do you know if it harms the beneficial biofilms?
 
I thought that had formalin inside? Isn't that a carcinogen?

Do you have a link for this? I am a bit worried since I have a lot of shrimps in the Lysmata genus, which die from the slightest bit of h2o2. If I remove them temporarily I am worried they're going to be mechanical carriers. However, if there is no eDNA being found thats something I might want to take a look at. Do you know if it harms the beneficial biofilms?
yes but small amount
 
Flukes. can be removed with a fallow period. Viruses can never be eliminated - because they can come in with any new addition and there is no treatment. Uronema is present in most tanks.

There is no reason to remove uronema IMHO - The best method is to remove detritus - if you're concerned about it. However, my guess is (no science behind it) - is that Uronema is very opportunistic - and often comes in with the fish - as compared to something your fish catch from your tank. I'd like to have @Jay Hemdal opinion on this

It does not work - simply because it can be re-introduced nearly immediately when something brings it in. Secondly, metronidazole is not fail-proof either

I think the fish recovered despite what you did. I.e. it was correlation, not causation. Or it was a misdiagnosis. You can always send your tank samples to @AquaBiomics - to see if Uronema is still present - with a couple caveats - the sensitivity and specificity, and second - what you would do differently (I would do nothing differently)
I think most of what you said is probably correct. It might be a sisyphean task to remove Uronema for good. Though, if there is a low cost way to do so I think it might be worthwhile to combine with a proper QT.

I also have no clue whether what I did helped. The fish had a massive red sore on its side that was getting worse until I did the Ich-X treatments, but I completely agree that it could have been correlation. Sample size is too small.

I do want to correct you about the flukes though. I think the fallow period is true for monogeneans, but digeneans have an extra step of their lifecycle where they take over the reproductive system of snails, clams, and other mollusks. Its a bit morbid — the poor thing effectively becomes a flesh robot/factory that just churns out parasites. Its these free swimming cercaria that then infect fish. As long as there is algae/phyto, the mollusk will happily munch/filter on, all while secretly continuously releasing massive batches of flukes. Nature is frickin scary.
 
I'm not sure there is evidence (but glad to hear any you have:) that what you say is true. The problem with 'eradicating it' is it comes back with potentially every addition - it is ubiquitous. It would be my opinion (and mine alone) - that the dosing, etc - is great - until something else is added. Uronema is ubiquitous - if you're not adding anything more to your tank - that may be a different issue
I have heard Uronema can be eliminated in QT using formalin dips, but I don't know how true that is though. It certainly is everywhere
 
yes but small amount
Have you dosed it into a DT before? What concentration did you use? Were the corals okay after? If there is a method where I can dose into a DT, I would much prefer that route
 
Have you dosed it into a DT before? What concentration did you use? Were the corals okay after? If there is a method where I can dose into a DT, I would much prefer that route
If you are referring to ruby rally pro, completely safe for coral and inverts.
If Metro. ... I rarely use it and it has to be precise
 
I thought that had formalin inside? Isn't that a carcinogen?

No, no formalin but metronidazole is also carcinogenic. That being said, I avoid the former at all costs and have no problems with infrequent use of the latter.
 
I thought that had formalin inside? Isn't that a carcinogen?

Do you have a link for this? I am a bit worried since I have a lot of shrimps in the Lysmata genus, which die from the slightest bit of h2o2. If I remove them temporarily I am worried they're going to be mechanical carriers. However, if there is no eDNA being found thats something I might want to take a look at. Do you know if it harms the beneficial biofilms?

Formalin does work on free-living Uronema, but you're correct, it is dangerous to use in a home situation. Additionally, internal, inter cellular Uronema is not treated by formalin, it just doesn't reach them. I have used formalin to treat external Uronema, but I've only seen that in seahorses and seadragons.

Peroxide kills shrimp before it kills Uronema, and then, it only works on the variety of Uronema seen in seahorse. I have no effective treatment for the inter cellular Uronema, other than to avoid species prone to it (Chromis, Anthias, wrasses and a few others).

Uronema very often shows up in eDNA reports, but about 75% of mature tanks show that - Uronema's "day job" is eating bacteria, not infecting fish.
 
No, no formalin but metronidazole is also carcinogenic. That being said, I avoid the former at all costs and have no problems with infrequent use of the latter.
I think you might be mis-speaking - But - more likely I'm not understanding what you're replying to.

Ruby Rally Pro does indeed contain Formalin - however, it is in a concentration that is not known to be toxic - and is used to 'activate other active ingredients' (if one is to believe the company - which is easy enough to call and talk to their lab - which I did some months ago).

On the other hand - Metronidazole is not considered carcinogenic in humans (whereas formalin is). Metronidazole is widely prescribed for anaerobic infections as well as genitourinary infections as well as various types of colitis. It is also widely used in veterinary medicine as an antibiotic and anti-protozoan. There is some suggestion (which is not conclusive) - that prolonged use in animals can be carcinogenic - but - not at all in concentrations used in aquaria (or human / veterinary medicine)

As a bath (or in a hospital tank, dissolved) it is rather simple to use - but metronidazole absolutely has to be only very carefully dosed orally (i.e mixed with food) for fish
 
Formalin does work on free-living Uronema, but you're correct, it is dangerous to use in a home situation. Additionally, internal, inter cellular Uronema is not treated by formalin, it just doesn't reach them. I have used formalin to treat external Uronema, but I've only seen that in seahorses and seadragons.

Peroxide kills shrimp before it kills Uronema, and then, it only works on the variety of Uronema seen in seahorse. I have no effective treatment for the inter cellular Uronema, other than to avoid species prone to it (Chromis, Anthias, wrasses and a few others).

Uronema very often shows up in eDNA reports, but about 75% of mature tanks show that - Uronema's "day job" is eating bacteria, not infecting fish.
So it sounds like theres currently no treatment for Uronema at all besides preventative. I wonder if there are ways to make other protozoans outcompete them in that niche.

What are your thoughts on the 14 day MetroPlex regimen? Could it eliminate intercellular Uronema?
 
I think you might be mis-speaking - But - more likely I'm not understanding what you're replying to.

Ruby Rally Pro does indeed contain Formalin - however, it is in a concentration that is not known to be toxic - and is used to 'activate other active ingredients' (if one is to believe the company - which is easy enough to call and talk to their lab - which I did some months ago).

On the other hand - Metronidazole is not considered carcinogenic in humans (whereas formalin is). Metronidazole is widely prescribed for anaerobic infections as well as genitourinary infections as well as various types of colitis. It is also widely used in veterinary medicine as an antibiotic and anti-protozoan. There is some suggestion (which is not conclusive) - that prolonged use in animals can be carcinogenic - but - not at all in concentrations used in aquaria (or human / veterinary medicine)

As a bath (or in a hospital tank, dissolved) it is rather simple to use - but metronidazole absolutely has to be only very carefully dosed orally (i.e mixed with food) for fish
From what I've read the health risks of formalin vs metro are two completely different orders of magnitudes. Though, this is the first time I'm reading that dosing metro directly into a tank is a bad idea. What risks are there?
 
From what I've read the health risks of formalin vs metro are two completely different orders of magnitudes. Though, this is the first time I'm reading that dosing metro directly into a tank is a bad idea. What risks are there?
I have no answer - I do not think there is a risk to adding Metronidazole into a tank. The issue is feeding the fish orally with metronidazole - nothing more. I do not know to what the other poster was referring. ( I was referring to a post from @Malcontent)
 
With the exception of flukes, viruses, and Uronema, it is my understanding that almost all common marine fish diseases can be removed from a system by leaving it fallow for 6 weeks. Obviously, having healthy fish is most important. Nevertheless, I am interested in the preventative step to decrease risk. Risk of flukes may be removed by avoiding all mollusks. Viruses are too diverse and evolve too quickly for any treatment to be feasible, plus play a key role in viral shunt.

I am wondering what eradication steps can be taken to remove Uronema from a system. Uronema doesn't require a host and is usually a scavenger/decomposer so it can persist off detritus in a system indefinitely.

I have heard that it may be removed by a 14-day regimen of MetroPlex (metronidazole). Is this still the most up-to-date advice that people give? What are some alternatives? What strong evidence do people have that this actually works?

I know I have it lurking in one of my systems since a fish caught it after I introduced it. I was able to cure it using one initial brackish dip which briefly visually helped, a weak h2o2 dip a few days later that visually helped a bit but seemed to hurt the fish more, then finally two Ich-X dips a few days later spaced a few days apart that seemed to do the job, all while running UV in the tank after observing symptoms.
With the exception of flukes, viruses, and Uronema, it is my understanding that almost all common marine fish diseases can be removed from a system by leaving it fallow for 6 weeks. Obviously, having healthy fish is most important. Nevertheless, I am interested in the preventative step to decrease risk. Risk of flukes may be removed by avoiding all mollusks. Viruses are too diverse and evolve too quickly for any treatment to be feasible, plus play a key role in viral shunt.

I am wondering what eradication steps can be taken to remove Uronema from a system. Uronema doesn't require a host and is usually a scavenger/decomposer so it can persist off detritus in a system indefinitely.

I have heard that it may be removed by a 14-day regimen of MetroPlex (metronidazole). Is this still the most up-to-date advice that people give? What are some alternatives? What strong evidence do people have that this actually works?

I know I have it lurking in one of my systems since a fish caught it after I introduced it. I was able to cure it using one initial brackish dip which briefly visually helped, a weak h2o2 dip a few days later that visually helped a bit but seemed to hurt the fish more, then finally two Ich-X dips a few days later spaced a few days apart that seemed to do the job, all while running UV in the tank after observing symptoms.
i can speak from experience, uronema is its own beast. It can live outside host dispute treatment and trigger a viscous cycle. I had to go through virtually every aquatic treatment known to try to eradicate the parasite as best I could with help from my local fish store while trying to minimize the loss of life from a fish that was over treated with copper by seller to minimize any signs or lesions on his fish and ensure fast turn over to minimize signs of copper toxicity if he didn’t. It was real shady stuff he did and likely still does. My copper in the fowlr was at standard range. After dipping the fish, now I QT all fish, I acclimated him in, I did see any physical signs at the time he entered my tank. I know none of my other fish had it because this was the first addition in months I made after keeping the same fish for quite some time until I was confident in my ability to control parameters and correct them, It was my first tank and I the only chemistry I studied was in college and never on water or it’s impact on animals. So I relied on my LFS a lot and obviously google. But nothing prepared me for this and the owner of my store holds multiple marine bio degrees and broke it down for me in medical terms and spark noted the google research for me. Uronema is like a deadly mosquito, you can kill one but there are others that will take its place and continue biting you. You can decrease the load of the parasite but it can still live in live rock. I was told the conclusive way to rid it for good was to drain the tank remove all sand and live rock clear the sump and dump everything. Then let the tank sit dry for minimum of 1 -2 months. While it can live outside of its hosts, it still needs water to live and drying the tank to bones creates uninhabitable conditions for the parasites to continue to live and reproduce even if no outbreaks are apparent. The best you can hope for otherwise is catching it early and symptomatically treating and dosing tank.

During the active infection, Any and all anti parasitic my LFS carried we tried from prazipro to parashield to procure (which yes it has formalin in it) to kanaplex/focus and metro/focus, nitrofurozone and I’m sure I’m missing some because I looked up every pharmacopathway of the medications to try to better understand why despite treating the tank and the fish internally, the dussimeri (guaranteed I spelled that wrong) continued to have skin necrosis and ulceration down to bone. I remember documenting each stage of treatment to see if any improvement happened and it didn’t. The fish still ate and swam in the med qt water changes were done appropriately, even had the LFS home team come to my house to make sure I was doing it right and double check my levels. Added extra aeration. The owner reached out to marine and aquarium contacts to discuss this poor fish. The end result was death of all but 1 fish who I still have but resides in his own tank after I took the advice from the owner to bear bones dry the tank and will not mix that fish with any others in case he still carries the parasite but isn’t actively affected.
I was taught to intermittently dose the nitrofurozone in the tank along with proper water changes and treating with metroplex and focus on the food at same time. This would keep any of the parasites if the surviving purple tang did carry them at a controlled level and treat any active reinfection if present. For me it’s working well. The tank has extra aeration and since the original outbreak, he has only had a reinfection once where he had lesions and I immediately hit it hard and fast. It took time for the ulcerations and tissue to heal and reform a skin or fish skin barrier.

That’s my prophylaxis that is now routine and to figure out the routine I had help from people with marine degrees and their contacts who are marine experts and work in aquariums.

With regards to metronidazole (or metroplex) - i have a bottle in my hand. Despite metroplex being an animal/aquatic version of metronidazole for humans and I’m sure some mammals as well, this medication works internally to reduce parasitic infection, prevent propagation, spread and further involvement. It has the most activity in the GI system which is where uronema often first for lack of better term colonizes (I know they are not bacteria but similar concept of where the aggregate and spread) fish excrete uronema pathogens who then go on to find another host or wait until a suitable one comes along. The intercellular parasites remaining in the body go on to attack and consume the tissue of the host so they can survive and continue to replicate which is why it’s so destructive. It’s so hard to kill once it’s gotten past the critical stage where the medicine is overtaken by the parasite. Metronidazole would never be given for a skin infection as it has no activity or effect unless it is administered via oral ingestion with a binder of focus to make sure it is absorbed by the sick fish.
Using metro in the tank won’t kill an active parasite that’s awaiting a host bc it needs to be metabolized to active form. When the LFS owner explained how and where the parasite goes my medical knowledge of metronidazole and its areas of efficacy clicked and thus why he recommend intermittently tank treating the water at same time. Treating the tank with the agent of choice will kill live parasites that may exist outside hoist and were shed during an active infection.

Full disclaimer: I work in human medicine, so I can’t not say this important but. The advice shared is that if individuals who specialized in the marine aquatic field. But their opinions on treatment of this case of uronema do not constitute all the medical facts or treatments on this condition and this medical conjecture from personal experience and is not meant to be used solely for diagnostic or treatment purposes. a local expert in marine disease should be contacted for their opinion on best approach and after all known information has been gathered should the treating person render their decision on how to proceed. This is not meant to be used for the purpose of treatment on any human being (sorry it has to be said bc there are some people who need to be told that)

The way my fishstore worked with me and outsider consults from the owners friends may not be the way others would have treated their tanks. At the end of the day if you are able to abate an active infection and minimize loss and injury without causing further harm, IMO that would be the path I would take. We treated following that guideline the best we could but each time the parasite overwhelmed the medication and we ran the meds in order of increasing level of medicinal strength with each failure in symptom improvement. Idk if any of that will help or if it answers your question but i wish you the best of luck !
 
i can speak from experience, uronema is its own beast. It can live outside host dispute treatment and trigger a viscous cycle. I had to go through virtually every aquatic treatment known to try to eradicate the parasite as best I could with help from my local fish store while trying to minimize the loss of life from a fish that was over treated with copper by seller to minimize any signs or lesions on his fish and ensure fast turn over to minimize signs of copper toxicity if he didn’t. It was real shady stuff he did and likely still does. My copper in the fowlr was at standard range. After dipping the fish, now I QT all fish, I acclimated him in, I did see any physical signs at the time he entered my tank. I know none of my other fish had it because this was the first addition in months I made after keeping the same fish for quite some time until I was confident in my ability to control parameters and correct them, It was my first tank and I the only chemistry I studied was in college and never on water or it’s impact on animals. So I relied on my LFS a lot and obviously google. But nothing prepared me for this and the owner of my store holds multiple marine bio degrees and broke it down for me in medical terms and spark noted the google research for me. Uronema is like a deadly mosquito, you can kill one but there are others that will take its place and continue biting you. You can decrease the load of the parasite but it can still live in live rock. I was told the conclusive way to rid it for good was to drain the tank remove all sand and live rock clear the sump and dump everything. Then let the tank sit dry for minimum of 1 -2 months. While it can live outside of its hosts, it still needs water to live and drying the tank to bones creates uninhabitable conditions for the parasites to continue to live and reproduce even if no outbreaks are apparent. The best you can hope for otherwise is catching it early and symptomatically treating and dosing tank.

During the active infection, Any and all anti parasitic my LFS carried we tried from prazipro to parashield to procure (which yes it has formalin in it) to kanaplex/focus and metro/focus, nitrofurozone and I’m sure I’m missing some because I looked up every pharmacopathway of the medications to try to better understand why despite treating the tank and the fish internally, the dussimeri (guaranteed I spelled that wrong) continued to have skin necrosis and ulceration down to bone. I remember documenting each stage of treatment to see if any improvement happened and it didn’t. The fish still ate and swam in the med qt water changes were done appropriately, even had the LFS home team come to my house to make sure I was doing it right and double check my levels. Added extra aeration. The owner reached out to marine and aquarium contacts to discuss this poor fish. The end result was death of all but 1 fish who I still have but resides in his own tank after I took the advice from the owner to bear bones dry the tank and will not mix that fish with any others in case he still carries the parasite but isn’t actively affected.
I was taught to intermittently dose the nitrofurozone in the tank along with proper water changes and treating with metroplex and focus on the food at same time. This would keep any of the parasites if the surviving purple tang did carry them at a controlled level and treat any active reinfection if present. For me it’s working well. The tank has extra aeration and since the original outbreak, he has only had a reinfection once where he had lesions and I immediately hit it hard and fast. It took time for the ulcerations and tissue to heal and reform a skin or fish skin barrier.

That’s my prophylaxis that is now routine and to figure out the routine I had help from people with marine degrees and their contacts who are marine experts and work in aquariums.

With regards to metronidazole (or metroplex) - i have a bottle in my hand. Despite metroplex being an animal/aquatic version of metronidazole for humans and I’m sure some mammals as well, this medication works internally to reduce parasitic infection, prevent propagation, spread and further involvement. It has the most activity in the GI system which is where uronema often first for lack of better term colonizes (I know they are not bacteria but similar concept of where the aggregate and spread) fish excrete uronema pathogens who then go on to find another host or wait until a suitable one comes along. The intercellular parasites remaining in the body go on to attack and consume the tissue of the host so they can survive and continue to replicate which is why it’s so destructive. It’s so hard to kill once it’s gotten past the critical stage where the medicine is overtaken by the parasite. Metronidazole would never be given for a skin infection as it has no activity or effect unless it is administered via oral ingestion with a binder of focus to make sure it is absorbed by the sick fish.
Using metro in the tank won’t kill an active parasite that’s awaiting a host bc it needs to be metabolized to active form. When the LFS owner explained how and where the parasite goes my medical knowledge of metronidazole and its areas of efficacy clicked and thus why he recommend intermittently tank treating the water at same time. Treating the tank with the agent of choice will kill live parasites that may exist outside hoist and were shed during an active infection.

Full disclaimer: I work in human medicine, so I can’t not say this important but. The advice shared is that if individuals who specialized in the marine aquatic field. But their opinions on treatment of this case of uronema do not constitute all the medical facts or treatments on this condition and this medical conjecture from personal experience and is not meant to be used solely for diagnostic or treatment purposes. a local expert in marine disease should be contacted for their opinion on best approach and after all known information has been gathered should the treating person render their decision on how to proceed. This is not meant to be used for the purpose of treatment on any human being (sorry it has to be said bc there are some people who need to be told that)

The way my fishstore worked with me and outsider consults from the owners friends may not be the way others would have treated their tanks. At the end of the day if you are able to abate an active infection and minimize loss and injury without causing further harm, IMO that would be the path I would take. We treated following that guideline the best we could but each time the parasite overwhelmed the medication and we ran the meds in order of increasing level of medicinal strength with each failure in symptom improvement. Idk if any of that will help or if it answers your question but i wish you the best of luck !
You provided a lot of information - and it sounds like you went through a lot with your fish!! Can you in a sentence or so - describe what your end recommendation would be let's say in 2 situations. 1) you test your tank and there is uronema - but no active infection. 2). you have a fish with clear uronema illness.

The reason I ask is that I'm not sure there is any good data that there is a benefit to 'removing' uronema from a tank in the first place - so my answer to question #1 would be - maintain good cleanliness in the tank, remove detritus. Uronema does not necessarily 'look for a host' - it can live just fine with no fish (as you suggested above). If you want to 'remove it completely' - you can soak your rock in bleach for a couple days, then neutralize it with either thiosulfate, rinsing, and repeating. I do not think you need to let the rock dry for months. One problem is that you can easily add back uronema with a new piece of coral, a CUC, etc (Obviously, this is not an issue in a tank without invertebrates).

My answer to question #2 is that many medications have been tried for uronema - especially when its become internal uronema, it is extremely difficult if not impossible to treat.

Third - Its unclear from your post - do you maintain copper in your FOWLR permanently? Copper long-term can be more toxic - and immunosuppressant - and may be worsening your chance of treating parasites rather than helping - but - again sorry it's unclear.

Lastly - did you microscopically find uronema? Can you send post a couple pictures of the fish? Have you considered testing your tank to see if uronema is still present (@AquaBiomics offers a test)
 
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  • A particular fish I enjoy watching

    Votes: 3 4.5%
  • The fish population—making sure everyone is accounted for

    Votes: 18 26.9%
  • Coral extension, color, or growth

    Votes: 19 28.4%
  • Recent additions or other changes

    Votes: 9 13.4%
  • Water clarity or the surface

    Votes: 1 1.5%
  • Equipment and water movement

    Votes: 2 3.0%
  • Signs of algae, pests, or trouble

    Votes: 4 6.0%
  • I just enjoy the whole scene

    Votes: 7 10.4%
  • Other (Post in the comments)

    Votes: 4 6.0%
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