Euglena?

[Twolabs443]

I have been struggling with one of my reef tanks for some time. Originally I had what I ID’d as ostreopsis dinos. Ever since then the tank has had ups and downs with blooms of a very thick green film forming algae. Or at least that was what I thought it was. I checked a sample under a microscope tonight and believe the ID to be Euglena? They do not seem to match any Dino’s in the Dino thread. The posts by @Jeff_H and @Beardo in the Dino thread are what keyed me in to it possibly being Euglena.

If it is in fact Euglena does anyone have any idea on treatment. Not much on R2R or even the googles about dealing with them in a reef tank.

Many thanks for any help!

 

[Gareth elliott]

Do they enter the water column? Euglena are common in freshwater tanks and ponds, they are the algae that makes “green water”. Ime they are very susceptible to UV if appropriately sized. They also make up a basal part of the food chain so adding copepods and amphipods could also help, after you have finished with using uv.

 

[Beardo]

I agree they are euglena.
Besides the free swimming stage that causes green water, some species also can have a cyst stage. Here are a couple of articles I found on the subject if you are interested.
https://www.thoughtco.com/about-euglena-cells-4099133
https://www.limnology-journal.org › pdf

As far as treatment, I would utilize a UV as @Gareth elliott suggested, since they do have a free swimming stage, along with physical remove during water changes. Low micron filter socks may also help during the free swimming stage.
Some species can also be toxic, so if your livestock is showing negative effects, running activated carbon may be beneficial.

 

[Twolabs443]

Thanks for the confirmation on the ID. I have not seen much evidence of a large free swimming bloom turning the water green. When a bloom happens it they seem to form a dense film with lots of air bubbles over the glass and rocks. The picture and video under the microscope is of a sample of this film which I am guessing show Euglena in the cyst stage, hence the low motility of the cells. I had been running a UV a while ago, but didn’t have great results. Thinking it may have been undersized. I will get a larger unit to try. Other than stressed and unhappy coral the other livestock seem to be doing fine. I do run carbon regularly though anyway.

Hopefully now that I have a bit better idea on what they are I will be able to get them under control. They have been plaguing this tank since about mid summer last year.

 

[Arthur_Dent]

Thanks for the confirmation on the ID. I have not seen much evidence of a large free swimming bloom turning the water green. When a bloom happens it they seem to form a dense film with lots of air bubbles over the glass and rocks. The picture and video under the microscope is of a sample of this film which I am guessing show Euglena in the cyst stage, hence the low motility of the cells. I had been running a UV a while ago, but didn’t have great results. Thinking it may have been undersized. I will get a larger unit to try. Other than stressed and unhappy coral the other livestock seem to be doing fine. I do run carbon regularly though anyway.

Hopefully now that I have a bit better idea on what they are I will be able to get them under control. They have been plaguing this tank since about mid summer last year.

Were you ever able to get your euglena bloom sorted out? Dealing with the same problem now. Wondering if you'd share what worked (or didn't).

 

[vetteguy53081]

Were you ever able to get your euglena bloom sorted out? Dealing with the same problem now. Wondering if you'd share what worked (or didn't).

First- Check phosphates and nitrates to assure theyre not elevated.
Here is full program:
Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles.
Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15%) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off.
During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as bacter 7) per 10 gallons.
Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX as it is food for dinos.
Day 5,, you can start with blue lights - ramping up and work your white lights up slowly

 

[Arthur_Dent]

First- Check phosphates and nitrates to assure theyre not elevated.
Here is full program:
Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles.
Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15%) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off.
During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as bacter 7) per 10 gallons.
Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX as it is food for dinos.
Day 5,, you can start with blue lights - ramping up and work your white lights up slowly

Thanks!

I noticed your reply references dinos at the end. I understand that euglena are protists and so are dinos, so I'm assuming your treatment is still applicable. I have validated that I have euglena in both the motile and cystic stage under a microscope.

Can you confirm this is what you also recommend for euglena on the sand bed? Assuming yes.

No sign of dinos (I previously had osteoporosis and amphidinium, and solved that problem with elevated nutrients and uv).

 

[vetteguy53081]

Thanks!

I noticed your reply references dinos at the end. I understand that euglena are protists and so are dinos, so I'm assuming your treatment is still applicable. I have validated that I have euglena in both the motile and cystic stage under a microscope.

Can you confirm this is what you also recommend for euglena on the sand bed? Assuming yes.

No sign of dinos (I previously had osteoporosis and amphidinium, and solved that problem with elevated nutrients and uv).

They treat the same way and the liquid bacteria will aid with the stuff in the sand.

 

[Arthur_Dent]

They treat the same way and the liquid bacteria will aid with the stuff in the sand.

Thanks again! I do appreciate it.

 

[Arthur_Dent]

3/26 (lights out)
- turned off whites, and turned blues down to 15%
- dosed tank with h2o2. It was late and I was tired and I accidentally 10x'ed the dose (1ml/gallon). Oops.
- when I realized what I had done, I put a wooden air stone in the display and turned the flow up higher than normal for all powerheads to break the surface more.
- Tang appeared to list a bit about an hour after this. Nems shrunk up immediately. All zoas and LPS retracted.
- I was worried about the cleaner shrimp.

3/27 (pre lights on)
- Everything is still alive this morning (thank goodness) and no losses
- All corals look happy as heck.
- Going to dose 1ml MB7 per TEN gallons when the lights come on, and continue PROPER h2o2 dosing schedule suggested above this evening.

I can't believe how careless I was. Glad I didn't nuke all of our creatures...

 

[ingchr1]

@Arthur_Dent any updates? Having an outbreak myself.

 

[Arthur_Dent]

@Arthur_Dent any updates? Having an outbreak myself.

No losses from the initial h2o2 overdose. No losses from the regular doses (1ml/10 gallons) over the next five nights. Nitrate staying below 10 and phosphate holding at 0.03. I have reduced feeding for the tank.

It got a bit worse, and now it's getting a bit better.

I'm starting to see more life in the sand at night, especially. Pods and such. I believe I killed whatever algae was competing with these with vibrant, and much of the microfauna died off as well. My hypothesis is that as more life emerges, the issue will slowly resolve itsself, all other things considered.

I'm discontinuing h2o2 dosing because it doesn't seem to have worked, although I don't see as many motile euglena, and everything I see now appears to be non motile cysts. I'll continue to check under a microscope and post an update when it resolves.

 

[ingchr1]

Mine is self inflicted as well. Happened after I cleaned the back glass of all coraline algae. The glass gets covered within hours and patches form on the sand by end of day.

Currently trying lights out and dosing Bio-Spira. Although the Bio-Spira is past its date, had it left over. I have an order coming from IPSF to increase diversity. I think that will clear it in time as well.

 

[Arthur_Dent]

Mine is self inflicted as well. Happened after I cleaned the back glass of all coraline algae. The glass gets covered within hours and patches form on the sand by end of day.

Currently trying lights out and dosing Bio-Spira. Although the Bio-Spira is past its date, had it left over. I have an order coming from IPSF to increase diversity. I think that will clear it in time as well.

light reduced to 10% (blue only), halving carbon dose (nopox), and dosing h2o2 at 1ml/10 gallons for a week at night, then MB7 dosing when lights come on and skimming wet got it under control for me very fast.

Here's an updated tank shot as of today: