Euphyllia coral slowly dying

[Lavey29]

I think I’m going to do a icp test and use cipro. What rate or how did you go about using cipro? I’ve had this one frogspawn that’s melting for close to a year so I don’t think it would be lighting or flow.

I dissolved a 250mg pill in tank water and then dosed it at night with skimmer off and no carbon. Did 3 doses over 6 days for BJD breakout.

I would get an ICP before cipro. You might be low on trace like iodine or something. I got my first ICP at 9 months and was amazed at things that were high and low.

 

[Lavey29]

The only testing i have seen of this showed this was not the case at all and that cipro had little to no impact on what we would consider essential bacteria in reef aquarium.

Agree. I had zero ammonia after cipro treatment.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Torch can be very picky . A few things will make them happy and while everyone is focusing on no3 and po3, There is more to their needs.
For starters, If you have leather corals, this may be part of the issue. Many leather coral species produce and release toxic chemicals, called terpenes, into the water to protect themselves and to stunt the growth of other species. One of the biggest problems I have seen beginner hobbyists have is failing to account for the calcium demand for these corals. If there is insufficient calcium in your aquarium water, these corals will not be able to make their coral skeleton. You should also never lift a torch coral out of the water if you can avoid it. You could tear the polyps, and torn polyps are prone to infection followed by necrosis
Torch requires typical parameters including:
Temperature around 78 degrees
Specific gravity of about 1.025
Ph of about 8.2
Calcium level of about 400 ppm.

Like most large polyp stony corals, a torch coral benefits from moderate water flow. The polyps will remain retracted and under-inflated if the water current is too fast because the large flowing polyps are prone to rip and tear in high or ultra-high current environments.
The torch coral is a photosynthetic coral, meaning it has a relationship with symbiotic zooxanthellae (single-cell photosynthetic organisms) that live inside its tissues that converts the light energy into sugar. In exchange for a home inside the coral, the zooxanthellae split their harvest and feed the coral. Therefore, it is possible to keep the Torch coral without any feeding at all. However, all corals are animals, and animals are meant to eat.
The best placement for a torch coral is in a location that gets moderate water flow and moderate-intensity lighting.

 

[mdb_talon]

One of the biggest problems I have seen beginner hobbyists have is failing to account for the calcium demand for these corals

I assume by "I" you mean the author of the content you copy and paste?

For anyone interested in the full article.

Torch coral care: best placement, feeding & light requirements

 

[jaw1990]

Tonight

I dissolved a 250mg pill in tank water and then dosed it at night with skimmer off and no carbon. Did 3 doses over 6 days for BJD breakout.

I would get an ICP before cipro. You might be low on trace like iodine or something. I got my first ICP at 9 months and was amazed at things that were high and low.

my euphyllia looks like it’s shrinking by the day. Some are not open as much tonight as last night. I ordered the stuff for an icp test but it will take a couple days to get here. I got the cipro in the mail today. Do you think I should still wait to dose the cipro? Maybe do a big water change?

 

[Lavey29]

Tonight

my euphyllia looks like it’s shrinking by the day. Some are not open as much tonight as last night. I ordered the stuff for an icp test but it will take a couple days to get here. I got the cipro in the mail today. Do you think I should still wait to dose the cipro? Maybe do a big water change?

I would always start with a water change and big bag of carbon in the sump. Do you have leather corals?

 

[jaw1990]

I would always start with a water change and big bag of carbon in the sump. Do you have leather corals?

I do have one leather coral. In the bottom in a corner in the back.

 

[Lavey29]

Tonight

my euphyllia looks like it’s shrinking by the day. Some are not open as much tonight as last night. I ordered the stuff for an icp test but it will take a couple days to get here. I got the cipro in the mail today. Do you think I should still wait to dose the cipro? Maybe do a big water change?

I had some torches and hammers closing up and struggling. 3 months prior lost 7 expensive corals to BJD which is caused by unstable parameters and low nutrients for the coral. Learned my lesson there. When similar behavior started showing on my LPS again although no visible BJD, I didn't wait. I did 3 doses of cipro over 6 days and everything returned to normal. This is the problem with our closed system versus the ocean. If a bad bacteria gets in it can devastate the tank quickly and good bacteria may not stop it. This is where cipro can help. ICP will be very helpful for you. Read up on PNS probio that stuff has really helped my tank.

 

[Lavey29]

I do have one leather coral. In the bottom in a corner in the back.

Are you running carbon due to its toxins?

 

[jaw1990]

Are you running carbon due to its toxins?

Yeah I’m running carbon that comes in the innovative marine purity pack and chemi-pure blue

 

[Lavey29]

Yeah I’m running carbon that comes in the innovative marine purity pack and chemi-pure blue

Well, you mag is still a little low but don't think that would cause this issue. What was phosphate? I found that biweekly water changes were not enough to maintain levels once I had enough corals in the tank. I dose alk and cal and to lesser degree magnesium. Since my fuge is growing well I also dose red sea trace once a week because ICP showed some trace deficiencies like iodine.

 

[Jeeperz]

Can we please quit the bickering, it's not helping the OP, or anyone else. I have a similar issue with 2 heads on my hammer. The rest is wide open fluffy. The only change is I cleaned the return pump and put carbon in the sump. I've cleaned the sand down to glass everywhere I can't reach, but there's not much sandbed due to being a reefer170 cube with rock. Everything from sps, chalice, Duncan, Monti, etc... Is excellent, even the rest of the hammer but 2 heads seem to be not coming out as much, each day getting worse. Thinking of doing an seachem reef dip treatment. I also have coral rx. Thanks in advance.

 

[bruno3047]

Can we please quit the bickering, it's not helping the OP, or anyone else. I have a similar issue with 2 heads on my hammer. The rest is wide open fluffy. The only change is I cleaned the return pump and put carbon in the sump. I've cleaned the sand down to glass everywhere I can't reach, but there's not much sandbed due to being a reefer170 cube with rock. Everything from sps, chalice, Duncan, Monti, etc... Is excellent, even the rest of the hammer but 2 heads seem to be not coming out as much, each day getting worse. Thinking of doing an seachem reef dip treatment. I also have coral rx. Thanks in advance.

Carbon is very disruptive to trace element levels. It actually pulls them out of solution. I don’t use carbon anymore. At all. I use purigen. You could try experimenting with that. A large water change done properly and removing the carbon.

 

[Peace River]

R2R was founded on the simple premise to develop a warm, friendly, suitable place to gather and discuss this hobby for people of all ages, backgrounds, and experience levels. The “Be Nice” policy is something we take very seriously. Please work to separate the problem from the people and focus on addressing the problem.

We highly encourage healthy debate here and understand not everyone will agree on all issues. In fact, we value healthy and even lively discussion of hobby issues and questions...this actually leads to advancements in our hobby, so we ALL win through these debates. What we will not tolerate is the negativity, name calling, belittling attitude towards other members or the topics being discussed. We are not asking you to cease debating your positions. What we are asking is that you do so in a healthy, respectful manner.

 

[bruno3047]

R2R was founded on the simple premise to develop a warm, friendly, suitable place to gather and discuss this hobby for people of all ages, backgrounds, and experience levels. The “Be Nice” policy is something we take very seriously. Please work to separate the problem from the people and focus on addressing the problem.

We highly encourage healthy debate here and understand not everyone will agree on all issues. In fact, we value healthy and even lively discussion of hobby issues and questions...this actually leads to advancements in our hobby, so we ALL win through these debates. What we will not tolerate is the negativity, name calling, belittling attitude towards other members or the topics being discussed. We are not asking you to cease debating your positions. What we are asking is that you do so in a healthy, respectful manner.

I live in Central Florida too.

 

[bruno3047]

Can we please quit the bickering, it's not helping the OP, or anyone else. I have a similar issue with 2 heads on my hammer. The rest is wide open fluffy. The only change is I cleaned the return pump and put carbon in the sump. I've cleaned the sand down to glass everywhere I can't reach, but there's not much sandbed due to being a reefer170 cube with rock. Everything from sps, chalice, Duncan, Monti, etc... Is excellent, even the rest of the hammer but 2 heads seem to be not coming out as much, each day getting worse. Thinking of doing an seachem reef dip treatment. I also have coral rx. Thanks in advance.

Using Activated Carbon in Saltwater Aquarium Systems

Find out what activated carbon is, what it does, how often it should be changed and used in saltwater aquarium systems as well as the pros and cons

www.thesprucepets.com

 

[Jeeperz]

Carbon is very disruptive to trace element levels. It actually pulls them out of solution. I don’t use carbon anymore. At all. I use purigen. You could try experimenting with that. A large water change done properly and removing the carbon.

Ok, thank you. I figured it had been awhile since I had carbon in so I added a big bag. I can't remember if it was shrinking before or not. I have a big mushroom leather that my clowns host, probably 8"+ diameter. I will pull the carbon and see if it improves. I have purigen too I can try instead.

 

[bruno3047]

Ok, thank you. I figured it had been awhile since I had carbon in so I added a big bag. I can't remember if it was shrinking before or not. I have a big mushroom leather that my clowns host, probably 8"+ diameter. I will pull the carbon and see if it improves. I have purigen too I can try instead.

In order to do it right, you’re probably going to need to do a significant water change as well because much of the trace elements that were in your water are now in your carbon. Or, alternatively, if you have a trace element supplement sitting around, such as kents essential elements, you could dose that. Good luck.

 

[Jeeperz]

In order to do it right, you’re probably going to need to do a significant water change as well because much of the trace elements that were in your water are now in your carbon. Or, alternatively, if you have a trace element supplement sitting around, such as kents essential elements, you could dose that. Good luck.

Funny you mention that. I have a small sample bottles of Kent essential elements, was afraid to try it as it contains chelated copper, I believe. Wasn't sure that was safe with inverts

 

[MERKEY]

The only testing i have seen of this showed this was not the case at all and that cipro had little to no impact on what we would consider essential bacteria in reef aquarium.

Could you kindly post the testing and findings you speak of?

I am following a lot of high end torch collectors and vendors who would argue differently.

It would be nice to show them hard facts to prove them wrong and help them as well.