Experience on UV sterilizers

[Traviitrav]

I have a Pro Clear 230 I am currently building and in the final steps before cycling. I know a sterilizer is useless during cycling and don’t plan on using one until later on but I wanted to go ahead and do my research and narrow down which one to get. I have been looking at the Aqua UV and the Lifeguard brands mostly.

A few questions - in others experience, which brand is better and why? What return pump syncs best with said brand? If able, is it better to get a bigger uv for your tank size or to stick with what the manufacturers suggest?

picture for attention

 

[ReefHog]

I can't compare the two but I can say the Lifeguard Pro Max models (pictured) are great UVs. I have two, the 55 watt on a 150 gallon tank and the 90 watt on a 220 tank. They are large but very versatile and easy to maintain. They also have a counter on the ballast so you know the hours on the lamp and when to replace. The wattage depends on what you are using the UV for. If it's for parasite control, then a larger wattage and precise flow is important. Also it is best used in line with 100% return back to the tank so your return pump should be sized to the UV. You will most likely have less flow through your sump than you would like but that's really not a big deal. Cheaper pump that way as a bonus. For algae control you can run a smaller UV in almost any fashion with a dedicated pump or on the return.

A lot of very good info below.

UVC Sterilization | How Aquarium & Pond UV Sterilizers Work

Information how a TRUE Aquarium, Pond UV Sterilizer/clarifier work. Category A, B, & C Sterilizers. Affect on green water, disease prevention, & Redox

www.americanaquariumproducts.com

 

[SlugSnorter]

I have a Pro Clear 230 I am currently building and in the final steps before cycling. I know a sterilizer is useless during cycling and don’t plan on using one until later on but I wanted to go ahead and do my research and narrow down which one to get. I have been looking at the Aqua UV and the Lifeguard brands mostly.

A few questions - in others experience, which brand is better and why? What return pump syncs best with said brand? If able, is it better to get a bigger uv for your tank size or to stick with what the manufacturers suggest?

picture for attention

its more about Pump to bulb strength ratio then brand.

 

[Traviitrav]

its more about Pump to bulb strength ratio then brand.

I can't compare the two but I can say the Lifeguard Pro Max models (pictured) are great UVs. I have two, the 55 watt on a 150 gallon tank and the 90 watt on a 220 tank. They are large but very versatile and easy to maintain. They also have a counter on the ballast so you know the hours on the lamp and when to replace. The wattage depends on what you are using the UV for. If it's for parasite control, then a larger wattage and precise flow is important. Also it is best used in line with 100% return back to the tank so your return pump should be sized to the UV. You will most likely have less flow through your sump than you would like but that's really not a big deal. Cheaper pump that way as a bonus. For algae control you can run a smaller UV in almost any fashion with a dedicated pump or on the return.

A lot of very good info below.

UVC Sterilization | How Aquarium & Pond UV Sterilizers Work

Information how a TRUE Aquarium, Pond UV Sterilizer/clarifier work. Category A, B, & C Sterilizers. Affect on green water, disease prevention, & Redox

www.americanaquariumproducts.com

so are you suggesting a separate pump inside the sump dedicated to the uv and having it return back into the sump?

 

[theMeat]

It’s not rocket science. The size/wattage of the bulb, against the gph through sterilizer determines exposure time. Length of exposure time determines what you want the uv to accomplish.

 

[TastesLikeChicken]

Pentair seems to be endorsed by a lot of folks in the hobby.

 

[threebuoys]

my $.02, and you will get varying opinions

My vote is to use the cheapest and largest UV sterilizer you can plumb into your sump return and run it full time for 100% of the water. I've been very happy with my set up. I cannot say conclusively that it has prevented crypto because I haven't had an obvious case in the 18 months I've used the system. I can say that the same system on my freshwater cichlid tank quickly eliminated an algae bloom in the water column. I believe it is unlikely crypto will be completely eradicated because I don't think it is possible to set up a system in such a way the 100% of the water will circulate through the system. So always a risk some theronts will remain to start the crypto life cycle all over again. But I believe it will still provide a meaningful level of protection against water-borne parasites and bacteria at a very low cost.

Some info about UV sterilization

Sorry, the UV info didn't come across in this quote, it's in the next post.

 

[threebuoys]

Germicidal UV Dose UV Irradiation Dosage Table​

Germicidal UV dose table shows the UV dose needed to inactivate germs
www.americanairandwater.com

quote from above article:

"Please note that many variables (air flow, humidity, distance of microorganism to the UV light, irradiation time) take place in a real world environment that make actual calculating of the UV dosage very difficult. However, it is proven that UV light will kill any DNA-based microorganism given enough UV dosage. UV breaks down DNA on a cumulative basis. Therefore, as air circulates through the ductwork of an HVAC system containing an UV light, the UV light continuously disinfects the air. If a microorganism is not effectively deactivated on the first pass through the ductwork, the UV light will continue to break its DNA down on subsequent passes. Microorganisms do not sit in a static environment in HVAC systems except on coils which can be exposed to UV light also. Microorganisms multiply rapidly if not controlled. The UV light helps to reduce airborne microorganisms from the indoor environment."

I recognize the above was written with concern for the sterilization of air, but air is just a different type of fluid and I believe the statements are just as relevant to water.

So , assume the following:

UV device holds 1 gallon of water,
return pump operates at 125 gallon per hour,
therefore, each gallon of water is exposed for (60minutes x60 seconds)/125 gallons=28.8 seconds per gallon per hour

Now, assume the return pump operates at a flow rate of 10x per hour,
therefore, each gallon of water is STILL exposed to 28.8 seconds per hour
60 minutes x 60 seconds = 3,600 seconds
3,600 seconds/10 = 360 seconds per cycle
360 seconds per cycle / 125 gallons = 2.88 seconds per gallon per cycle
2.88 seconds per cycle x 10 cycles per hour = 28.8 seconds per gallon per hour... imagine that

So, single cell bacteria that replicate every 20 minutes are exposed and sterilized once every 6 minutes preventing rapid reproduction, and
Multi-cell parasites are exposed 28.8 seconds per hour x (? hours to replicate{I know, I don't have this value yet to complete the calculation}) and sterilized preventing their rapid reproduction.

Also keep in mind that almost all of the devices used for aquariums use the same UV replacement bulbs.
So, I suggest you opt for the highest wattage unit you can find and set the return rate for what you require for your filtration. The UV will only affect the organisms found in the water column. So, only the free swimming parasites will be rendered sterile, but that's still good, and bacteria and algae in the water column will be sterilized to boot.

My belief is that many of the vendors of these devices fail to recognize the fact that aquariums are closed systems and cumulative exposure due to high turnover rates is just as effective as one time exposure when no turnover occurs (as in municipal and industrial water systems.)

 

[ReefHog]

so are you suggesting a separate pump inside the sump dedicated to the uv and having it return back into the sump?

Again it depends on why you want to run UV. Dinos/algae/water clarity or parasite control/prevention. The easiest way, especially for new builds, is to just have it piped into the return back to the tank. Maybe with a bypass around the UV if you don't want to shut the return flow off during UV maintenance. No extra pump is needed this way and the water intering the UV will be the cleanest water since its after your filtration resulting in better UV penetration. Some people prefer to just have the UV as a separate item all together so they run it from one end of the sump to the other. I don't like this way as it short cycles the sump flow or the UV depending on how it is plumbed. It does seem to work just fine for water clarity/algae etc though.

 

[DE FISH]

Either way expect increased protein skimmer production

 

[SlugSnorter]

so are you suggesting a separate pump inside the sump dedicated to the uv and having it return back into the sump?

I mean the strength of the UV depends on the flow of the setup

 

[Traviitrav]

Again it depends on why you want to run UV. Dinos/algae/water clarity or parasite control/prevention. The easiest way, especially for new builds, is to just have it piped into the return back to the tank. Maybe with a bypass around the UV if you don't want to shut the return flow off during UV maintenance. No extra pump is needed this way and the water intering the UV will be the cleanest water since its after your filtration resulting in better UV penetration. Some people prefer to just have the UV as a separate item all together so they run it from one end of the sump to the other. I don't like this way as it short cycles the sump flow or the UV depending on how it is plumbed. It does seem to work just fine for water clarity/algae etc though.

I guess what I’m trying to figure out: if I were to go with a higher wattage bulb for the size of my tank, could I essentially have a sterilizer that can tackle both issues based off the gph I push through the sterilizer? Like my pump be the solution to whatever I happen to be battling at that stage in my tank life?

 

[Duncan62]

its more about Pump to bulb strength ratio then brand.

Time of exposure to uvc. Submersible bulb in the sump is very effective. Low flow = max exposure. Less wattage required. Cheaper.

 

[ReefHog]

I guess what I’m trying to figure out: if I were to go with a higher wattage bulb for the size of my tank, could I essentially have a sterilizer that can tackle both issues based off the gph I push through the sterilizer? Like my pump be the solution to whatever I happen to be battling at that stage in my tank life?

I don't think it's really possible to do that precisely as the tank turnover requirements are different. Algae control requires a faster tank turnover. Now I have heard of some people controlling their return pump from their controller (ie. Neptune) so that it runs a higher gph during the day and slows down during the night hours essentally meeting both requirements. That may cause overflow issues depending on what type of overflow is being used. Herbie, Bean Animal, Durso etc.

 

[Duncan62]

I don't think it's really possible to do that precisely as the tank turnover requirements are different. Algae control requires a faster tank turnover. Now I have heard of some people controlling their return pump from their controller (ie. Neptune) so that it runs a higher gph during the day and slows down during the night hours essentally meeting both requirements. That may cause overflow issues depending on what type of overflow is being used. Herbie, Bean Animal, Durso etc.

I have 2 13 watt submersible bulbs in a baffled chamber. Every gallon is exposed for enough time to work. I can run them 2 hours at night for almost any problem. No overflow issues. I've used in lines before. They work OK till time to change the bulb. imo it's effective easier and cheaper. If you run a sump or other compatible area

 

[ProxyAquarist]

.... if I were to go with a higher wattage bulb for the size of my tank, could I essentially have a sterilizer that can tackle both issues based off the gph I push through the sterilizer?

Yes, that is my understanding.

For 2 tanks, we got the highest UV wattage required and a pump with the highest gph required for both parasites and algae.

If the inhabitants require lower flow, one can use the lower gph rate and alter the rate if the condition requires. However, this is not prevention; in that scenario, UV is a therapy.

Another option for low flow loving inhabitants is to use the higher gph flow rate and try to diffuse the flow at the output.

My best suggestion is:
1. Pick your goal : algae or parasite control.
2. Consider a unit with a good reputation and easily available replacement parts (i.e. uv bulbs).
3. Find the wattage that manufacturer suggests for your tank and goal.
4. Get a unit by that manufacturer that is at that wattage or a greater wattage. (Note UV blubs decrease in output with time).
5. Determine the suggested flow output (gph) by the manufacturer for your goal at that wattage. Use a pump that has variable output with a maximum exceeding the suggested output.
6. Dial in the output to the suggested gph for your goal.
7. Replace the UV light yearly to assume output.

Best wishes,
Jim

 

[C_AWOL]

Lifegard pro series are good uvs. As far as what size, consider that they will largely be 24/7 heaters of that same wattage unless you run them for half the time.

 

[Traviitrav]

Yes, that is my understanding.

For 2 tanks, we got the highest UV wattage required and a pump with the highest gph required for both parasites and algae.

If the inhabitants require lower flow, one can use the lower gph rate and alter the rate if the condition requires. However, this is not prevention; in that scenario, UV is a therapy.

Another option for low flow loving inhabitants is to use the higher gph flow rate and try to diffuse the flow at the output.

My best suggestion is:
1. Pick your goal : algae or parasite control.
2. Consider a unit with a good reputation and easily available replacement parts (i.e. uv bulbs).
3. Find the wattage that manufacturer suggests for your tank and goal.
4. Get a unit by that manufacturer that is at that wattage or a greater wattage. (Note UV blubs decrease in output with time).
5. Determine the suggested flow output (gph) by the manufacturer for your goal at that wattage. Use a pump that has variable output with a maximum exceeding the suggested output.
6. Dial in the output to the suggested gph for your goal.
7. Replace the UV light yearly to assume output.

Best wishes,
Jim

Very good info! Thank you!

 

[Shirak]

You mentioned earlier running the flow for the UV from the sump back to the sump. Usually not the best setup for the UV. Most likely you won't have enough flow with this setup to make it effective for algae/dinos.

 

[Traviitrav]

You mentioned earlier running the flow for the UV from the sump back to the sump. Usually not the best setup for the UV. Most likely you won't have enough flow with this setup to make it effective for algae/dinos.

Yeah I’m going to install it into the main intake line going into the DT