Feeding reef roids???

[Eagle_Steve]

Isn't coral feedings based on the notion "more food will grow bigger and brighter corals "????

It's been my experience that unless a coral is a "direct feed" type of coral.... adding coral food really doesn't pan out beneficially and actually works against you. In 15yrs I've put myself thru many methodologies. I keep coming back to 1) only food is feeding the fish, 2) good clean water, 3) good source of light to match the corals natural lighting needs



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For some possibly, and I know your reply was not directed at me, but there is a need for this type of feeding, even on non-NPS tanks. Just trying to use my case as an example for others reading and for another side of why it can be beneficial or harmful.

I know you said, coral that have to be directly fed, but I have a huge issue with nutrients bottoming out and that is not good with NPS corals or any other corals I have. Bear with me here for a second. Reef Roids helps me keep nutrients up and there is only so much actual food I want floating around the tank. Like I said before, I add 3 scoops to the food I make once a week. When the chunks get put into the food holder, it thaws, fish get food and the reef roids now makes it way around and then into the fuge and out by the skimmer a few hours later when it kicks back on. (i turn skimmer off while feeding and leave it off for 3 hours). I will have to say that, the additional nutrients from reef roids, allows me to dose less nutrients, certain corals are growing faster, with Reef Roids as the only change in a few years and overall the tanks are doing well with it added in. Nothing is target fed either, I have enough random flow that something goes everywhere, and turning the skimmer off with 10-12x turnover it makes its way back into the DT, as the fuge cannot clean it out that fast. Add that with the lack of any filter socks, sponges, or floss and it just keeps going until it is consumed, or the skimmer comes back on.

But, to be fair, reef roids can certainly create a ton of issues in a tank if overused or the tank already has a high nutrient issue. It is also not really needed in most reef tanks, unless the have low nutrient issues. Adding it in can aid in not having a ton of clams, mysis, and whatever else is in the food floating around, as it dissolves and then is easily consumed by fine filter feeders or the skimmer.

At the end of the day, all tanks are different and it can benefit some and hurt others. Like with anything we add, it needs to be monitored and not used if it causes issues.

 

[ZoWhat]

For some possibly, and I know your reply was not directed at me, but there is a need for this type of feeding, even on non-NPS tanks. Just trying to use my case as an example for others reading and for another side of why it can be beneficial or harmful.

I know you said, coral that have to be directly fed, but I have a huge issue with nutrients bottoming out and that is not good with NPS corals or any other corals I have. Bear with me here for a second. Reef Roids helps me keep nutrients up and there is only so much actual food I want floating around the tank. Like I said before, I add 3 scoops to the food I make once a week. When the chunks get put into the food holder, it thaws, fish get food and the reef roids now makes it way around and then into the fuge and out by the skimmer a few hours later when it kicks back on. (i turn skimmer off while feeding and leave it off for 3 hours). I will have to say that, the additional nutrients from reef roids, allows me to dose less nutrients, certain corals are growing faster, with Reef Roids as the only change in a few years and overall the tanks are doing well with it added in. Nothing is target fed either, I have enough random flow that something goes everywhere, and turning the skimmer off with 10-12x turnover it makes its way back into the DT, as the fuge cannot clean it out that fast. Add that with the lack of any filter socks, sponges, or floss and it just keeps going until it is consumed, or the skimmer comes back on.

But, to be fair, reef roids can certainly create a ton of issues in a tank if overused or the tank already has a high nutrient issue. It is also not really needed in most reef tanks, unless the have low nutrient issues. Adding it in can aid in not having a ton of clams, mysis, and whatever else is in the food floating around, as it dissolves and then is easily consumed by fine filter feeders or the skimmer.

At the end of the day, all tanks are different and it can benefit some and hurt others. Like with anything we add, it needs to be monitored and not used if it causes issues.

Correct....I was not flaming you nor anyone else. Just adding my thoughts and experiences.

The CRAZY thing about this hobby is that every tank is different with different needs. No two tanks are exactly alike. We can try to "group" tanks together but it's really impossible.....waaaaay too many influencing factors involved



.

 

[Eagle_Steve]

Correct....I was not flaming you nor anyone else. Just adding my thoughts and experiences.

The CRAZY thing about this hobby is that every tank is different with different needs. No two tanks are exactly alike. We can try to "group" tanks together but it's really impossible.....waaaaay too many influencing factors involved



.

Ohh I know you weren’t flaming anyone. Just figured a reason why it is needed and when it may not be needed might help others, as a lot of people seem to be searching reef roids or posting about it and similar products lately.

 

[xiholdtruex]

I have had success spot feeding once a week up to three times a week. A little goes a long way

 

[Trevor40]

I have a 240 gallon system with filter socks, marine pure block and a Kessil H380 light over my chaeto and mangroves. My PO4 is near .00 with Hanna test.

I feed a little pink of Reef Roids daily and some acropower in order to keep my corals from starving. I then feed 1 cube of Mysis and 1 small cube of LRS Reef Frenzy. Overall I think things have been growing well.

If my acros look a little more pale then Increases feedings of reef roids and aminos. If they are doing well then I keep doing what I was doing. If I see algae show up that my tangs are not consuming then I back off a little.

The amounts you feel all depend on how your tank reacts. Try something, watch and adjust.

 

[User1]

Everything in moderation because there is only so much we can do within our little piece of the ocean. Having said that there is a reason why corals have mouths, wavy, or pulsing things to capture what is in the water column. Some foods are more natural in spreading it into the water column such as roids as noted here or LRS. Others are not.

Probably going to come down to a personal preference and opinion. Mine is pretty simple in that adding smaller particle food into the water column provides food to the corals that want it. Amount added will vary as the tank matures. Furthermore it takes the coral less energy to eat the properly sized food than something larger.

 

[ZoWhat]

.....I think feeding corals is even more important in lower nutrient system and helps prevent the loss of color.

I think coral color has more to do with minor and trace elements PLUS proper lighting over and above coral food. Just my opinion though....

 

[leorii2000]

Can you post the food recipe

Depends on the coral in my opinion..

I think feeding corals is even more important in lower nutrient system and helps prevent the loss of color. People are dumping nitrates and phosphates in the tank to help curb low nutrients but I feel if you feed the corals they can get these nutrients from the food..
This is more beneficial than all these phosphates people put in their water and binding to the substrate. With so many now having the issues with low nutrients people will start feeding more.

Also If you have a algae issue you would be better just feeding the fish or spot feeding the corals. So I think you are right there. Alage is becoming less of a issue that it used to be and low nutrients have also become a issue. There just are better methods of exporting nutrient now a days.

Like my gonis I always spot feed but in a smaller tank with allot of corals with smaller polyps I will broadcast reefroids.

LPS wont benefit from reefroids in my opinion and looking at his list it is probably not even be beneficial.

I sort of broadcast feed everyday. I make my own fish food and 3 scoops of reef roids goes into the food mix before I freeze it. That batch usually lasts a week.

I found doing this, I don’t forget to add the reef roids lol.

Will younshare how you make or what is in the food you make? Like recipe.....

 

[BCORAL]

I feed 2 times a week.

 

[shred5]

Can you post the food recipe


Will younshare how you make or what is in the food you make? Like recipe.....

For coral or fish? Honestly I feed a ton of different stuff.

The stuff I use the most is Rods food because he is a old friend but his food is harder to get around here sometimes. I also use Larry's (LRS) foods when I can not get Rods. Both are Excellent foods and are the base of what I feed.

I also feed so many things it is not funny and depends what I am targeting.

I also feed:

PE Calanus
Mysis
Reef roids
Gonipower
Coral frenzy
fish eggs
prawn eggs
cyclopeeze
brineshrimp
Live bbs
rotifers
phytoplankton
Bacteria
Different dry foods like flake and pellet.

One of the reasons I like Rods food is it has most of these foods in it but I do feed them separate too.

For example phyto I feed for the different sponges, tube worms, feather dusters and other micro and smaller organisms that feed on pyto so I add it a few times a week..
Corals do not eat much phyto because they are carnivores. It is found in their guts sometimes but it could be because the animals they eat feed on them.

Bacteria I feed because I feel certain corals eat them like some goniopora and other corals we do not actually see eating. Also some sponges feed on bacteria.

I usually try and mix up reefroids, gonipower and coral frenzy and feed two to three times a week for the corals.

I really like to feed a varied diet and feed something different each feeding and 3 or more times a day depending on the what I am targeting. Right now I have 10 tanks set up and could be doubling them in my fish/coral/invert room...

 

[shred5]

I think coral color has more to do with minor and trace elements PLUS proper lighting over and above coral food. Just my opinion though....

I think we are talking different things.
I am talking about the corals turning pale from to low of nutrients, this has become a common problem for some.
You measure you phosphates and nitrates and they are near zero and this causes the corals to get a pale color.

People are now adding a form of nitrogen and phosphates to their water to combat this. My issue is phosphates bind with calcium carbonate and it is possible it can release later causing algae issues. Then it hard to get it under control and you get that chronic algae issue that is hard to get rid of because your rock/sand is loaded with bound phosphates.
At first it is hard to get the phosphates up because this is happening. Anyway if you feed the corals they can get their nutrient fix directly from the food.

The only issue really is what we do not know what corals eat what or how all them feed. Some we can see feed but those that feed on bacteria we may never see feeding. Some put out slime net to catch food, maybe some do through absorption and something like amino acids might be better.

Some of this is my theory and some is based on fact based on what we know now.

 

[andrewkw]

The best advice is probably to just listen to your corals / tank. IE if corals are eating keep feeding them. If they show no feeding response either make sure you are using appropriate sized foods (shred5 has a pretty good list above). If your nutrient levels are increasing to the point of algae or other problems you are feeding too much.

Maybe you only have time to drop reef roids into a high flow area and broadcast feed like that. Maybe you can turn off your pumps an hour a week and target feed each coral. There are so many variables both with you and your tank.