Filter Setup

[richard203]

Hi I was wondering if I can run a water filter setup just to remove chlorine, chloramine, and nitrate? Right now my setup is 2x brs 1 micron carbon block filter --> 1x Anion Di resin --> 1x cation Di resin --> 1x mixed resin. right now I'm getting 2tds coming out. I dont know why my Cation DI resin is producing more TDS coming out. my tds is 4 coming out

 

[Quietman]

Are you running an RO unit?

 

[richard203]

Are you running an RO unit?

no,

 

[Quietman]

Could be several causes but if configured as you said then it's setup incorrectly causing your issue as the cation output will be higher TDS than input normally.

The electrical charge of the water exiting the cation stage will be higher than that entering. This is due to the cation resin producing hydrogen (H) as a result of the ion exchange. This water will have a higher electrical charge, hence higher TDS on the meter which is just measuring electrical conductivity. The reason the the anion is designed to be after the cation is the anion will add O to H producing pure water and removing most if not all the charge. The mixed is a 'polish' as just two stage isn't a complete removal. This is why normally people will replace anion resins much more often than the other two (in 3 years I've replace anion 4 or 5 times, and haven't touched the cation or mixed).

I haven't discussed not having RO. You maybe lucky and have exceptionally pure well water. If not, then you'll be going through DI Resin much more quickly without the RO.

I have most of my information from BRS here. BRS RODI

 

[richard203]

Could be several causes but if configured as you said then it's setup incorrectly causing your issue as the cation output will be higher TDS than input normally.

The electrical charge of the water exiting the cation stage will be higher than that entering. This is due to the cation resin producing hydrogen (H) as a result of the ion exchange. This water will have a higher electrical charge, hence higher TDS on the meter which is just measuring electrical conductivity. The reason the the anion is designed to be after the cation is the anion will add O to H producing pure water and removing most if not all the charge. The mixed is a 'polish' as just two stage isn't a complete removal. This is why normally people will replace anion resins much more often than the other two (in 3 years I've replace anion 4 or 5 times, and haven't touched the cation or mixed).

I haven't discussed not having RO. You maybe lucky and have exceptionally pure well water. If not, then you'll be going through DI Resin much more quickly without the RO.

I have most of my information from BRS here. BRS RODI

I got the following result

After chlorine membrane coming out ppm - 114ppm

After Cation - 247ppm why is after Cation my ppm went up?

​

I ordered some mixed ones and ima do the following

Chlorine membrane -> Cation -> Anion -> Mixed Di

​

is that setup ok?

 

[Quietman]

I got the following result

After chlorine membrane coming out ppm - 114ppm

After Cation - 247ppm why is after Cation my ppm went up?

​

I ordered some mixed ones and ima do the following

Chlorine membrane -> Cation -> Anion -> Mixed Di

​

is that setup ok?

That is the recommended setup and should give you the best result. Let us know how it works out.

 

[richard203]

That is the recommended setup and should give you the best result. Let us know how it works out.

Why cation di give out more ppm?

 

[Quietman]

Why cation di give out more ppm?

It's in the write up I posted earlier. Look at the BRS video I linked. Really explains it well.

Short answer - it's how it supposed to work during ion replacement. Most don't measure after cation (I don't) as it's not helpful really for indicating performance or water purity. Go by color change on cation resin to determine if exhausted.

 

[richard203]

It's in the write up I posted earlier. Look at the BRS video I linked. Really explains it well.

Short answer - it's how it supposed to work during ion replacement. Most don't measure after cation (I don't) as it's not helpful really for indicating performance or water purity. Go by color change on cation resin to determine if exhausted.

So people don’t measure ppm after the resin? How did back then I can get to 0 ppm and now I can’t?

 

[Quietman]

So people don’t measure ppm after the resin? How did back then I can get to 0 ppm and now I can’t?

Let me explain it this way. A DI resin system is based on both Cation and Anion resin beds. Due to the chemical nature of how they work, they cannot operate independently as the anion bed will process the incomplete ion exchange from the cation bed. So you need both to get a full ion exchange and hopefully get close to 0.

This can be done two ways. A separate canister of cation followed by anion resin beads, which functions as one unit. Or a single canister of one mixed bed resin beads that have both cation and anion beads in one container.

In a three canister (3 stage) DI system, monitoring the output of the cation bed is like trying to monitor what's going on inside the mixed bed. It's not giving you any useful information until both ion exchanges happen.

You can get useful information from monitoring the output of the anion stage before going into the mixed bed. If it's high they you have a problem with either of the previous two stages. Remember they operate as one system and a high reading could be either.

What most of us do however, is just monitor the output from the RO unit if you have one, then monitor the output of the entire DI stage after the final polish by the mixed bed. If that starts to creep up beyond 1 or 2 ppm then we check the canisters for color change and replace any resin that has less than an inch of color left at the top.

 

[richard203]

Let me explain it this way. A DI resin system is based on both Cation and Anion resin beds. Due to the chemical nature of how they work, they cannot operate independently as the anion bed will process the incomplete ion exchange from the cation bed. So you need both to get a full ion exchange and hopefully get close to 0.

This can be done two ways. A separate canister of cation followed by anion resin beads, which functions as one unit. Or a single canister of one mixed bed resin beads that have both cation and anion beads in one container.

In a three canister (3 stage) DI system, monitoring the output of the cation bed is like trying to monitor what's going on inside the mixed bed. It's not giving you any useful information until both ion exchanges happen.

You can get useful information from monitoring the output of the anion stage before going into the mixed bed. If it's high they you have a problem with either of the previous two stages. Remember they operate as one system and a high reading could be either.

What most of us do however, is just monitor the output from the RO unit if you have one, then monitor the output of the entire DI stage after the final polish by the mixed bed. If that starts to creep up beyond 1 or 2 ppm then we check the canisters for color change and replace any resin that has less than an inch of color left at the top.

just setup the mixed resin and got 0 tds. I was wondering if I just want to remove nitrate from the tap water wat DI resin should i be using? I checked the PH and its 6ph and below so i was wondering any way to remove nitrate from tap water and leave other mineral in the water.