Finally going "big" - 120G

don_chuwish

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After years of running a 36G bow front with just a canister filter and hob refugium, plus a 20G cube with nothing but a HOB filter, we're finally getting close to a move that'll allow me to set up a 2' x 4' 120G. I love the dimensions of this tank! I've slowly been gathering equipment, used when possible, new on deep discount (BRS 'black friday' sale helped!) and anything I can do to keep cost down.

Here's what I have:
  • Used 120G (with stand I won't use) from owner who only used as terrarium
  • 40G breeder ($/G sale at Petco) for sump/refugium
  • Neptune Systems Apex Lite (may have to sell and upgrade to Standard)
  • Neptune Systems Apex Breakout Box
  • Vertex Omega 150 skimmer
  • BRS dosers
  • BRS carbon & GFO canisters
  • BRS RO/DI (5 stage 'plus' with extra DI canister)
  • BRS 'reefsaver' dry rock (in circulating RO water now)
  • Tropic Eden Reeflakes and Miniflakes (1:1) (Thanks PremiumAquatics!)
  • Tunze powerheads - 6025s with opened up shroud for huge flow
  • Tunze 5017 ATO
  • R420R 120W LED and a 250W Metal Halide - temporary
  • APC Backups Pro 1500
  • CAT5e network cable in the wall and dedicated 15A power.
  • Pair of small transfer tanks cycling at the new location

Need to get:
  • RLSS Waveline DC 6000 for return pump
  • Overflow (16" Synergy Reef maybe?) - will do Beananimal style
  • Finnex 500W titanium heating tube (or maybe 2 x 300W)
  • Drain & return plumbing
  • Home built stand (already designed in Sketchup)
  • Many things I haven't thought of yet I'm sure!!

Livestock to transfer:
  • 2 pairs of clowns currently in separate tanks
  • 2 Hi-Fin Red Banded goby & red banded shrimp pairs currently in separate tanks
  • Six Line Wrasse
  • Pygmy Yellowtail Angelfish
  • PomPom Crab
  • Quite a bit of coral - wide variety
  • Variety of CUC
  • Some live rock to bring, some to exclude
  • Not re-using any old sand
Some pics you say?
The old:







The new:




Wish me luck!!
 
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don_chuwish

don_chuwish

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Still working on this Sketchup of the stand, but it's pretty close. Structural lumber to be skinned on 3 sides with 1/2" plywood. Top to be 3/4" inch plywood. Then front and exposed sides/back get magnetically attached decorative panels (not in the drawing).

 
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don_chuwish

don_chuwish

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Still picking up bits and bobs for the build, however I can source them inexpensively. Used R420R 120W, used EB8, plumbing parts, etc.
Still refining the 40B sump/refugium design too.
 
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don_chuwish

don_chuwish

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My temporary transfer tanks are a little past half cycled. The move has to happen before end of this month since that's the date I gave the landlord. Going over the logistics in my head it's pretty crazy. Gotta have totes & water ready for things that don't fit in the temporary tanks. I have a gorilla crab in a refugium that I need to keep isolated (hey, I like the guy!). Places for corals, hiding spots, etc. Move day is gonna be crazy.
 

Singlefin

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Just noticed on your tank, did the guy cut the cross brace out? I had the same wood looking trim. Painted it black.
 
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don_chuwish

don_chuwish

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Just noticed on your tank, did the guy cut the cross brace out? I had the same wood looking trim. Painted it black.
He said the heat lamp for his reptiles melted it so he cut it. I was fine with that, I wanted to cut and replace with a siliconed glass brace anyway. Don't want a shadow.
And yes, hate the fake wood look, I'm going to scuff & paint too.

Thanks for pointing out the missing brace though, just in case I didn't know any better!
 
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don_chuwish

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Wow, seems like it's been forever, almost forgot I'd even started this thread! I am finally getting closer though. Saltwater mixing station is set up (SO happy with that!). Stand is built, plumbing parts ordered, work on the tank started.
Got it drilled and the trim painted this weekend. I was just going to go with black but my wife decided to change my mind. I still used Krylon Fusion satin black as a base, then tested a gray primer, which I liked, but ended up with what you see in the pics. Wife insists it'll go well with the panels we have planned for the stand. I was impressed with how well the spray paint on the trim turned out.
I do have one source of worry though. Small cracks at the corners of the trim (see pics). Didn't notice them until painting. They don't seem to go all the way through. But that combined with my plans for a DIY polycarbonate center brace are giving me some unease.

The pics!

IMG_4816.jpg IMG_4818.jpg IMG_4819.jpg IMG_4820.jpg IMG_4821.jpg IMG_4824.jpg IMG_4825.jpg IMG_4826.jpg IMG_4828.jpg IMG_4829.jpg IMG_4830.jpg IMG_4834.jpg IMG_4836.jpg IMG_4837.jpg
 
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don_chuwish

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OK, so got a little more done. That missing center brace needed attention. So after much research I learned from other threads that polycarbonate can be glued to the trim with Weld-On 16. So I ordered a 12" x 24" x 3/8" thick piece of polycarbonate and a tube of 16 from Amazon. I first cut a 3/4" wide strip that'll go into the notch in the trim nicely - and extend all the way back to the glass under the trim. Lots of gluing surface. That left me with a lot of polycarbonate. So I cut 4 "L" shaped corner braces and glued those in. Then, under the front trim, I added a 24" long 3/4" wide strip that crosses under the center brace. That's glued all along it's length and snugs up against the glass. So it's bonded to the center brace as well. On the back side I couldn't make the same T because it would lower the overflow box too much. Instead, I added 2 x 12" pieces on either side of the overflow box. Just a little extra rigidity. Enough words. Pics work better!IMG_4841.JPGIMG_4842.JPGIMG_4844.JPGIMG_4843.JPGIMG_4845.JPG
 
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Made a little progress on the plumbing today, getting my thoughts in order. Realizing what extra I'd ordered and what I missed. I'm already wishing I'd made my stand a few inches taller to get more space inside. The height was partly determined by its final location though so, oh well. The top of the tank is right at armpit height, so I can reach in to the bottom easily.
IMG_4846.JPG IMG_4847.JPG
 
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Hopefully this three day weekend will allow for some real progress. But in the meantime, here's a bit about the RO+Mixing station I set up.

I found the tall Roto-Mold being sold by another reefer not too far away. Including a Panworld 40PX. They'd been using it as a kalk mixer so the existing bulkheads weren't quite what I needed. Fine, plugged.

32G Brute below it for mixing, simple loop with an outlet for pumping to the sump. About 50' worth of hose away. I could probably gravity feed it but since the pump is there already.... why not.
I'll use 50' of 1/2" vinyl tubing that I can quick connect to either the RO or the mixing container.

A remote power switch is handy, so I can close the valve at the end of the hose, open the valve at the tank, walk out of the garage and into the house, then turn on/off the pump remotely.

Sorbothane feet for the pump do an amazing job eliminating vibration transfer.

The RO filter waste water goes out through a line through the house crawlspace and then into the french drains outside the foundation. Same with an emergency overflow line from the top of the tank. Those were a PAIN to get through the wall sill plate.

Now to make RO I can just turn some valves instead of running lines everywhere and setting up buckets, etc. Worrying about overflowing if I don't check back all the time.

IMG_4738.jpg IMG_4739.jpg IMG_4740.jpg IMG_4741.jpg

IMG_4850.JPG


IMG_4851.JPG


IMG_4852.JPG
 
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don_chuwish

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Thanks, I wish I could say the same for the rest of the garage! It's really nice after years of using a 'mobile' RO setup, wasting huge amounts of water overflowing a container, etc. In summer I can tap into the waste water line and direct it toward landscape plants or something.
 
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Some progress on the plumbing today. Amazing how I spent so much time planning it and now as I start putting it together I'm making changes. Gonna need different fittings of course!

I cut teeth in the top of the emergency intake using a tenoning jig at the table saw. Completely unnecessary I'm sure, but fun.



The blue painters tape just marks where the 2x6 top frame ends, and where the top of the 40B sump starts. Drains will go through the 2x6. The return manifold will be inside the stand and is 1" all the way through the sweep 90s - then bushed down to 3/4".

 

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