That's nice, they will bring lots of color to the tank. Don't know if you want any green chromis but I am thinking of getting some cause of their amazing color.
It'd say there are maybe 10 aiptasia but a lot of them are small so its hard to kill them with injecting lemon juice. I'm thinking of getting berghias.
Yeah I like how they school. Sadly after this fish haul my tank will be at the max limit for fish. I already have a pair of black storm clownfish so the action's there 24/7
Yeah try that lemon juice method. I have'nt seen any because I always dip and blast my frags before adding them into the tank. I did a headcount and my tank is made up of corals / shrimp / rock from 8 different places. Either different websites or LFS... Who knows what those tank carried. When did you start seeing aiptasia in your tank? Mines is only 2 months old and I don't see any signs of it.
Clowns before other fish? From what I have heard and from my own experience they usually get pretty aggressive against new fish, and firefish are usually pretty weak, but you will have a couple of other fish so you might be fine, just keep an eye out.
Tank is about 1 year and 2 months old, I only get my fish/corals from one guy that’s local but still an hour away from me. Pretty good prices so it’s worth the drive. The aiptasia most likely came as a hitchhiker on one of the coral as the rock was all dry rock. I saw the first aiptasia on the bottom a zoa that I tried getting out with a tweezer which I think I did but since then I had gotten more corals so either that one didn’t die or it came on one of the new coral. Also what do you mean by blast your coral? And what do you use to dip?
I use this reef dip here:
www.bulkreefsupply.com
Blasting the frag with a large turkey blasterI use this reef dip here:
Reef Dip - Complexed Iodine Coral Dip
Reef Dip is an elemental iodine dip complexed to a protective slime coat for safely and gently disinfecting corals. The protective slime coat covers the coral, holding the iodine in contact with the infected site for extended periods of time. In addition, the slime coat prevents infection from...
Use what your LFS uses – they aren't likely to put up with junk. Buying sight-unseen is always a risk....and that's buying online.
They aren't schooling fish, so I'm not surprised. They are also very sensitive, so other fish might be scaring them out of the tank. I'd try keeping fewer and see if that helps. 5 or less IMO. 3 or less might even be better.
Train yourself to hang out in front of the tank for (up to) 10 minutes and they will start to get more used to you eventually. Otherwise they'll always just be reacting.
I wold never ever bother with injections unless MAYBE I was only dealing win a single aiptasia. Even then....too fiddly.
So you dip it and then blast it? Do you have a good video for instructions on dipping?
For Refractometer, I ended up buying a Red Sea refractometer off ebay for $21 and it worked great after I recalibrated it.Use what your LFS uses – they aren't likely to put up with junk. Buying sight-unseen is always a risk....and that's buying online.
Otherwise just don't buy the cheapest one you can find. IMO if you can see a weight listed, buy the heaviest one you can. The new ones I've touched feel like they're made of styrofoam and feathers.
If you are stuck with shopping Amazon for stuff like this, then firstly I'm sorry you have no LFS. Second, search for "salinity refractometer", set the price range to "$0 to $80", then sort by "Price: High to Low". Buy from the top part of the list. Avoid all the $8 and $15 dollar units IMO. Maybe they are fine, but that's too cheap IMO.
All that said, refractometers are calibrated with a set screw. Folks complaining about their refractometer "losing calibration" make no sense to me. Set screws don't move on their own. But then I also don't know how they are treating their equipment. All I know is that I bought one in the mid-2000's (from Marine Dopot for <$40 I think) and it looks like it's that old, but it has never "lost its calibration". Sounds to me like nonsense.
A swing arm hydrometer is perfectly adequate, BTW, and can be calibrated to be even better than adequate:
If you're leery of other options, this is a bulletproof one. And cost is <$20....and you can freely buy the cheapest one you can find. Get a used one for free somewhere if you can!
But IMO a refractometer is still the best option overall. Faster, more accurate and more precise than a swing-arm, but just as dependable. (Also more expensive.)
They aren't schooling fish, so I'm not surprised. They are also very sensitive, so other fish might be scaring them out of the tank. I'd try keeping fewer and see if that helps. 5 or less IMO. 3 or less might even be better.
Train yourself to hang out in front of the tank for (up to) 10 minutes and they will start to get more used to you eventually. Otherwise they'll always just be reacting.
I wold never ever bother with injections unless MAYBE I was only dealing win a single aiptasia. Even then....too fiddly.
In all other cases (and even with only a single, honestly) I'd use something like Aiptasia X. Simpler, easier, faster and at least as effective if not more so.
