First Triton ICP Test Came Back today

onetootreefor

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My first ICP test on my 8 month old tank came back today, and I see some ALARMING results.

My tin levels seem to be through the roof, and some signs of aluminum and copper in my tank.

I am really concerned as I don't know where the source could be. It is a brand-new tank and stand (around 8 months old), and all the equipment is brand new so what could be leaching this much SN into my tank? I have seen some recent STN on my acro colonies, and if I move them into an old tank, they come right back to life full color and STN stops.

I have 1 marine pure bio block in there, and 1 column of Eshoppes bio block thing in there as well. I have heard they can leach aluminum, but this much tin too? That seems like a crazy high amount of SN.

I need to isolate what is causing this and remove it. Open to all suggestions. Screen Shot 2019-10-09 at 10.44.38 AM.png Screen Shot 2019-10-09 at 10.44.45 AM.png Screen Shot 2019-10-09 at 10.44.54 AM.png Screen Shot 2019-10-09 at 10.45.00 AM.png
 

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vetteguy53081

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It can be from contaminated or old salt mix, clamps, water source. Triton has liquid called metals. Add to water prior to water change and it will start to drop
 

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I have to ask the standard question, are you using ro/do water and r you making it yourself, also, are u running marine pure blocks?
 
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onetootreefor

onetootreefor

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I have to ask the standard question, are you using ro/do water and r you making it yourself, also, are u running marine pure blocks?
I make my own RODI, and I use black bucket RedSea salt. I make the RODI right before I mix and then change water, no storing or anything, just make and change. Digital TDS meter before and after DI stage, 0 TDS in the output.

I do use marine pure bio blocks in my sump, also Eshoppes bio block (more of a cylinder). 1 large marine pure and 1 cylinder of eshoppes.
 

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I do believe that marine pure blocks have a tendency to release aluminum in the tank which is why I don’t use them.
 
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onetootreefor

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I do believe that marine pure blocks have a tendency to release aluminum in the tank which is why I don’t use them.
I'm more concerned about the MASSIVE amounts of Tin. The numbers that are being reported I should have some sort of rusty iron ore sitting on the bottom of my tank, but I can't zone in on any piece of rust anywhere. My cabinet door hinges have a light dusting of rust, but only 1 hinge, and it's barely any. Also I noticed my mp40s have a *TINY* bit of what I believe to be rust (see pictures) on the westside impeller.

IMG_1309.jpg IMG_1312.jpg
 

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I would definitely replace the wet sides of your mp40’s. How high was the copper reading? That would also be a concern to be as neither corals or invertebrates tolerate copper.
 

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Is anything wrong in your tank livestock wise?
 
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I would definitely replace the wet sides of your mp40’s. How high was the copper reading? That would also be a concern to be as neither corals or invertebrates tolerate copper.

Copper is at 3.846 mq/l. Inverts seem to be fine though...

Is anything wrong in your tank livestock wise?

I have some issues with my SPS corals, incredibly slow growth colors are fading and some colonies are having STN. I move them into a different tank and they become healthier almost over night. Fishwise everything seems fine, but I did have an outbreak of brook, or velvet a few months ago. I was able to save about 6 fish, but I did not treat the Display Tank, all fish infected were moved to a QT where I treated them with CP, the fish are still in QT, and none of the fish in QT have been moved back to the DT.
 

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Copper is at 3.846 mq/l. Inverts seem to be fine though...



I have some issues with my SPS corals, incredibly slow growth colors are fading and some colonies are having STN. I move them into a different tank and they become healthier almost over night. Fishwise everything seems fine, but I did have an outbreak of brook, or velvet a few months ago. I was able to save about 6 fish, but I did not treat the Display Tank, all fish infected were moved to a QT where I treated them with CP, the fish are still in QT, and none of the fish in QT have been moved back to the DT.
No one is judging, so please be honest, how close is your QT tank from your DT, what do you do to prevent cross contamination of copper between the tanks, I keep them in different rooms, I have separate buckets and tools to work in each, and I will not work on the both tanks on the same day.
 
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No one is judging, so please be honest, how close is your QT tank from your DT, what do you do to prevent cross contamination of copper between the tanks, I keep them in different rooms, I have separate buckets and tools to work in each, and I will not work on the both tanks on the same day.

The QT is in the same room about 10-15 feet away. I don't use any of the same buckets or tools, and the QT is brand new for this outbreak. It has never seen copper. I used Chloroquine Phosphate to treat the fish in the QT, and all separate buckets. I don't have any copper in the house to treat anything to be honest.
 

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You can start to run Cuprisorb in your DT.

10 to 15 ft is the minimum distance between tanks to prevent cross contamination. So it may or may not happen.

All you really can do to prevent cross contamination is to do your best, like using throw away gloves and such.
 
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onetootreefor

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You can start to run Cuprisorb in your DT.

10 to 15 ft is the minimum distance between tanks to prevent cross contamination. So it may or may not happen.

All you really can do to prevent cross contamination is to do your best, like using throw away gloves and such.
I am going to move the QT tank to another room for sure, but this was kind of an emergency and didn't have anywhere else.

My other tank (which is doing fine the one I have been moving my dying corals into) is only 3 feet from the QT.

Again, I don't even own any Copper for treating fish or tanks, I am still at a loss where that could be coming from at all. My RODI should take care of any copper that is coming from my tap water correct?
 

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I thought you had said that you had a velvet outbreak and threated the fish in the QT with cp, if I misinterpreted this then I apologize.

The cuprisorb will help get rid of those heavy metals, you can put it in a sock and run the water thru it.

Don’t worry, you will get thru this!!! :)
 

piranhaman00

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I thought you had said that you had a velvet outbreak and threated the fish in the QT with cp, if I misinterpreted this then I apologize.

The cuprisorb will help get rid of those heavy metals, you can put it in a sock and run the water thru it.

Don’t worry, you will get thru this!!! :)

CP meaning Chloroquine Phosphate not copper power.
 

piranhaman00

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Lol, I thought u meant copper power.

Well its not me, Im just stating I think that is where the confusion lies.

Edit: I mis read post. Disregard.
 
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Billldg

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Either way, start using cuprisorb to help remove the heavy metals. :)
 
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onetootreefor

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I thought you had said that you had a velvet outbreak and threated the fish in the QT with cp, if I misinterpreted this then I apologize.

The cuprisorb will help get rid of those heavy metals, you can put it in a sock and run the water thru it.

Don’t worry, you will get thru this!!! :)
when I said CP I meant Chloriquine Phosphate, sorry for the confusion.

Can an extremely dirty first filter on the RODI system cause Copper to leach? Even if it's 0 TDS after the DI stage?
 

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when I said CP I meant Chloriquine Phosphate, sorry for the confusion.

Can an extremely dirty first filter on the RODI system cause Copper to leach? Even if it's 0 TDS after the DI stage?
Yes, because it says 0 tds doesn’t mean something can’t get thru if the filters are depleted. I would error on the side of caution and replace the filters.
 

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